Materials:

YarnArt “Baby” yarn (100% acrylic, 150 m / 50 g) – 50 g of red, slightly green and white colors.

“Daisy” Combine them. Kirov (100% cotton 320 m / 75 g) or any other yarn of a similar meter – a little yellow and just a little black

Hook No. 1.75 for acrylic and No. 1.25 for cotton

White felt, transparent adhesive and half eye beads

Wire

Sintepon or other filler

Thick insoles

From the claimed materials the imp is obtained with a 15 cm sprout along with horns.

You can ask any questions on the description on our forum

Abbreviations

ch – chain

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease (2 sc together)

inc – increase (2 sc in one sc of the previous row)

hdc, dc, double-hdc, double-dc – half-column with 1 double crochet, column with 1 double crochet, half-column with 2 double crochets, column with 2 double crochets, respectively

sl-st – slip-stitch

Description of processes

PATTERN

Hands (2 parts)

Yarn of red color, hook No. 1.75

Thumb (2 parts):

1 p.: 6 sc into magic ring

2 p.: (1 sc, inc) x 3 (9)

3-4 r.: Sc (9) thread cut, fasten.

Fingers (6 parts):

1 p.: 6 sc into magic ring

2 p.: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

3-5 r.: Sc (8) cut the thread, fasten it, do not cut the thread on two fingers, continue to knit the palm:

1 p.: 4 sc on the 1st finger, 4 sc on the 2nd finger, 8 sc on the 3rd finger, 4 sc on the 2nd finger, 4 sc on the 1st finger (24)

2 p.: Sc (24)

for the left hand:

3 p.: 4 sc with thumb, 7 sc, dec, 11 sc (23)

Knit the handle amigurumi imp

4 pp.: 5 sc on the thumb, 6 sc, dec, 11 sc (23)

5 p.: Dec, (8 sc, dec) x 2, sc (20), insert the wire frame

6 r.: (3 sc, dec) x 4 (16), a little palm fill with padding polyester

7-16 r .: sc (16), in the process-add the synthetic winterizer to the handle

17 p.: Sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 5 sc (14)

18 p.: Dec, 5 sc, dec, 5 sc (12), cut the thread, fasten.

We knit the right hand in the same way, but:

3 p.: 11 sc, dec, 7 sc, 4 sc with thumb (23)

4 p.: 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, 5 sc on the thumb (23)

Knitted imp handles

Imp nose

Yarn of red color, hook No. 1.75

We knit the nose of the imp amigurumi

1 r.: 4 ch, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook – 2 sc, 3 sc to the last item, then on the other side of the chain – sc, inc (8)

2 p.: Inc, sc, inc x 3, sc, inc x 2 (14)

3 p.: Sc, inc, sc, (sc, inc) x 3, sc, (sc, inc) x 2 (20)

4 p.: Sc (20)

5 p.: Sc, dec, sc, (sc, dec) x 3, sc, (sc, dec) x 2 (14), cut the thread, leaving a small end for sewing, fill the nose with sintepon.

Horns (2 parts)

Yarn of red color, hook No. 1.75

1 p.: 6 sc into magic ring

2 p.: Sc, 2 inc, sc, dec (7)

Knit imp horns

3 p.: 2 sc, 2 inc, sc, dec (8)

4 p.: 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, dec (9)

5 p.: 3 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, dec (10)

6 p.: 3 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, dec (11)

7 p.: 4 sc, 2 inc, 3 sc, dec (12)

8 p.: 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, dec (13)

9 p.: 5 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, dec (14)

10 p.: 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, dec (15)

11 p.: 6 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, dec (16)

12 p.: 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, dec (17)

13 p.: 7 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, dec (18), cut the thread, leaving a small end for sewing, fill the horns with synthetic winterizer.

Imp tail

1 p.: 4 sc into magic ring

2 p.: Inc, sc, inc, sc (6)

3 p.: Sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, sc (8)

4 p.: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, sc (10)

5 p.: 3 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, sc (12)

6 p.: 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, sc (14)

7 p.: 5 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, sc (16)

8 p.: For the back half of the loop 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec (12)

9 p.: 3 sc, 3 sc together, 3 sc, 3 sc together (8)

10 p.: For the front half of the loop dec, 2 sc, dec, 2 sc (6)

11 p.: Sc (6)

12 p.: Inc, 5 sc (7)

13-14 p .: sc (7)

15 p.: Inc, 6 sc (8)

16-30 r .: sc (8)

31 p.: Inc, 3 sc, inc, 3 sc (10)

32 p.: Inc, 4 sc, inc, 4 sc (12)

33 p.: Sc (12), cut the thread, fasten. It is not necessary to stuff the tail with a padding polyester.

Legs (2 parts)

White yarn, hook 1.75

1 r.: 9 ch, starting from the 2nd loop from the hook – 7 sc, 3 sc to the last p., Then on the other side of the chain – 6 sc, inc (18)

2 p.: Inc, 6 sc, inc x 3, 6 sc, inc x 2 (24)

3 p.: Sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 3 sc (28)

4 p.: 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc x 2, 2 sc, inc, 6 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc x 2 (36)

5 r .: inc, 12 sc, inc, sc, inc x 2, sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, sc, inc x 2, sc (44), cut the insole according to the shape of the sole

6 p.: Sc for the back half of the loop (44)

Start knitting the leg of the imp

7 p.: Sc (44), cut, fasten and hide the thread.

Attach the green yarn to the 29th column of the 7th row and knit 2 rows of 27 sc (here you can knit in straight and reverse rows, or you can start each row again, then the boot will be more accurate). After the second row, cut the thread and start again from the 8th column of the second row – again 2 rows, but already at 13 sc (this is the back of the boot), while the second row is knitted for the front half of the loop, trim the thread, hide.

Attach the white yarn to the 6th column of the 7th row of the white sole and knit the toe of the boot. Here all rows should be front. In order not to constantly cut the thread, at the end of the row you just need to stretch the last loop, stretch a ball through it, tighten (a knot is obtained) and start a new row with the same thread, skipping the thread along the already connected row. Then we sew this thread in the process of knitting the next row.

To get a rounded toe of the boot, we knit the middle 5 sc, adding 1 sc in each row from the sole to the right and left with ch at the beginning of the row and sl-st at the end.

1 p.: Ch, 5 sc, sl-st (7)

2 p.: Ch, 7 sc, sl-st (9)

3 p.: Ch, 9 sc, sl-st (11)

4 p.: Ch, 11 sc, sl-st (13)

5 p.: Ch, 13 sc, sl-st (15)

6 p.: Ch, 15 sc, sl-st (17), fasten and cut the thread, leaving the end more authentic (with this thread we will then lace the boot)

7 p.: With green yarn for the back half-loop (starting from ch of the 6th row) – ch, sc, dec x 3, 2 sc, dec x 3, sc (10, ch in the next row we skip)

8-16 r.: Ch, rotation, 10 sc (10), here we knit in straight and reverse rows

17 p.: For the front half of the loop – sc, hdc, dc, double-hdc, 2 double-dc, double-hdc, dc, hdc, sc (10), fasten and cut the thread, leaving a small end.

Attach the red thread to the 1st column of the 16th row and, clinging to the left halves of the “tongue” and back loops, knit 3 rows of 23 sc with red yarn, cut the thread, fix it.

Using the left white thread and needle, lace up the boot, put the insole, sew the holes in the corners of the boot with a green thread, fill the part with synthetic winterizer, hide all the threads. Similarly, tie the second boot, but do not cut the red thread, but continue to knit the body.

Body + head

1 p.: 11 sc on the second boot (from which the thread was not cut), 23 sc on the first boot (start from the last column of the third red row), 12 sc on the second boot (46)

2 p.: 5 sc, inc x 5, dec, inc x 5, 11 sc, (inc, sc) x 2, inc, dec, (inc, sc) x 3, 5 sc (60)

3 p.: Sc (60)

We begin to combine the body and legs

4 p.: 43 sc, 6 sc with tail, 11 sc (60)

5 p.: Dec, 28 sc, dec, 11 sc, 6 sc tail, 11 sc (58)

6 p.: Sc (58)

7 p.: Dec, 3 sc, (dec, 3 sc) x 4, dec, 2 sc, dec, 27 sc (51)

8 p.: Sc (51)

9 p.: (15 sc, dec) x 3 (48)

10 p.: Sc (48)

11 p.: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

Bind the imp body

12-13 p .: sc (42)

14 p.: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

15-16 r .: sc (36)

17 p.: 6 sc with his left hand, 12 sc, 6 sc with his right hand, 12 sc (36)

18 p.: On the left hand: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc; 12 sc in front, on the right hand: 2 sc, dec, 2 sc; 12 sc on the back (34)

19 p.: Dec, sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, sc, dec, 12 sc (30), fill the part with synthetic winterizer, fasten the wire frame of the hands

20 p.: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)

21-22 r .: sc (24)

23 p.: (Sc, inc) x 12 (36)

24 p.: (2 sc, inc) x 12 (48)

25 p.: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54)

26 p.: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60)

27 p.: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66)

28 p.: (10 sc, inc) x 6 (72)

Finish knitting the head and body of the imp

29-36 p.: Sc (72)

37 p.: 5 sc, (sc, dec) x 12, 31 sc (60)

38 p.: (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54)

39-45 p.: Sc (54)

46 p.: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48)

47 p.: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42)

48 p.: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36)

49 p.: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

50 p.: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24), do not fill your head too tightly so that you can make weights

51 p.: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)

52 p.: (Sc, dec) x 6 (12)

53 p.: Dec x 6 (6), cut the thread. Make make-ups for a smile right away: insert a needle with a thread into the crown and withdraw in the place of the left “dimple” (between the 30th and 31st rows, first make dimples with your fingers, determining the most successful places), stepping back one column to the side, insert the needle into the “dimple” and withdraw in the crown, tighten. Repeat again for the right “dimple”, then again make one stitch for the left and right “dimples”, pull everything to the crown, fix the thread and hide the tip.

Sew on the nose by making two hooks – “nostrils” (following the example of hooks for a smile). Sew horns (focus on the photo of the finished toy).

For the eyes, cut ovals from felt (first cut out of paper and determine the desired size), glue to the head, sew / glue the eyes, embroider a smile with a black thread with one stitch.

Trident

Cotton is yellow, hook No. 1,25

Middle detail:

1 p.: 6 sc into magic ring

2 p.: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

3 p.: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)

4 p.: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)

5 p.: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

6 p.: (3 sc, 2 dec) x 2 (10)

7 p.: (2 sc, 3 sc together) x 2 (6)

Knit a trident of an imp

8 p. and further: sc (6), knit to the desired trident length, I have 10 cm, cut the thread, insert the wire into the part, pull the hole, hide the thread.

Sidewalls (2 parts):

1 p.: 6 sc into magic ring

2 p.: (2 sc, inc) x 2 (8)

3 p.: (3 sc, inc) x 2 (10)

4 p.: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)

5 p.: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

6 p.: (3 sc, 2 dec) x 2 (10)

7 p.: (2 sc, 3 sc together) x 2 (6)

8-17 p.: Sc (6), cut the thread, leaving a small end for sewing, insert the wire inside the part, drag it through the middle part of the trident and insert it into another sidewall, sew the sidewalls to the middle part.

Hand over the little trident and you’re done! Now you can admire your work!

The post Cute Devil Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

THOMAS (Thomas & Friends) FREE PATTERN

Materials:

Himalaya Dolphin Baby (abbrev. HDB):

– blue no 327 – 5 skeins (the main yarn)

– light grey no 325 – 2 skeins (for the head and rectangular base)

– red no 318 – 2 skeins (for the rectangular base and train details)

– black no 311 – 2 skeins (for the body, neck, chimney, roof, wheels and details)

– dark grey no 320 – 1 skein (for the frame and wheel connectors)

– white no 301 – small amount (for the light)

– light blue no 306 – small amount (for the light)

Alize Softy:

– black no 60 – 1 skein (for the train details: windows etc.)

– yellow no 216 – 1 skein (for the train details: windows edge and number 1)

Yarn Art Jeans (abbrev. YAJ):

– white and black – small amount (for the eye & pupil)

Crochet hook:

– 4.5 mm – for Himalaya Dolphin Baby and Alize Softy

– 9 mm for the red rectangular base (2 strands of HDB)

– 2 mm – for the eyes (YAJ)

Additional materials:

– PVC pipe: 3 pieces of 8 cm long, 12 mm in diameter; 1 piece of 41 cm long, 2 cm in diameter.

– tapestry needle

– markers (or piece of yarn to sketch some details)

– stuffing

– scissors

The size of finished toy:

– 50 cm / 19.68″ long

– 35 cm / 13.7″ tall (without chimneys)

– 46 cm / 18.1″ tall (with chimneys)

ABBREVIATIONS:

• st = stitch

• sl st = slip stitch

• ch = chain

• tch = turning chain (at the end of a row)

• sc = single crochet

• inc = increase (2 sc in one st)

• dec = decrease (sc2tog)

• (..) = repeat the pattern particular number of times

• [..] = complete number of st in the round / row

• rnd = round

• BLO = back loop only

• FLO = front loop only

• FPSC = front post single crochet

• color – change the color of yarn (before you crochet the next stitches)

Firstly I tried to work out the technic details of the project, how to crochet particular parts of the train.

I started from the head – light grey Himalaya Dolphin Baby, crochet hook 4.5 mm.

Then I changed to black and then I crocheted sequence of red and blue stripes. I’ve got cylindrical shape and had stuffed the part before I closed the opening.

FACE / HEAD & BODY

Start with Himalaya Dolphin Baby: light grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: 18 sc [18]

Rnd 5: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 6: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 7: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 8: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 9: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 [48]

Rnd 10: (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]

Rnd 11: (4 sc, inc, 4 sc) x 6 [60]

Rnd 12: (9 sc, inc) x 6 [66]

Rnd 13: (5 sc, inc, 5 sc) x 6 [72]

Rnd 14-15: 72 sc [72]

Change to black (I start to count from round 1 again):

Rnd 1-8: 72 sc [72]

Now repeat the red-blue stripes and change the color in the middle of the round.

Change to blue:

Rnd 1: blue 18 sc, red 36 sc, blue 18 sc [72]

Rnd 2-4: blue 72 sc [72]

Repeat rnds 1-4 six times (to get 6 red stripes).

(rnds 5-8, 9-12, 13-16, 17-20, 21-24)

Rnd 25: BLO 72 sc [72]

(later in FLO you will sew the B-3 part – see section “THE BACK PART”)

Add stuffing.

Now decrease until you close the opening.

Rnd 26: (5 sc, dec, 5 sc) x 6 [66]

Rnd 27: (9 sc, dec) x 6 [60]

Rnd 28: (4 sc, dec, 4 sc) x 6 [54]

Add stuffing.

Rnd 29: (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]

Rnd 30: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 31: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]

Rnd 32: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 33: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 34: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 35: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 36: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, hide loose ends.

You get cylindrical shape.

Mark the points on the bottom of head to crochet the train’s “neck”. Divide the face horizontally in half (in the PHOTO there is a light pink yarn) and count 10 sc from the edge points of the red stripes (it is the neck boundary).

Mark the centre point to check if the neck is symmetrically placed.

NECK

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

In the first round of the neck crochet FPSC inserting the hook in the bottom of the head.

Start from the bottom right corner (X on the photo below) – this is the start point (one of the points you marked in the bottom of head to crochet the neck (the neck boundary).

Rnd 1: FPSC: 14 sc, 7 sc, 14 sc, 7 sc [42]

Rnds 2-6: 42 sc [42]

Now don’t cut the yarn and crochet the neck base to close the rectangle – work in rows: 14 sc in BLO, 1 tch, turn. Crochet 7 rows. You get the rectangle: 7 rows x 14 sc. Join rectangle with each side of the neck (join with slip stitches).

The neck base is crocheted along the one (longer) side of the neck.

Join the base with the neck edges. Look at the scheme below:

7 sl sts + 14 sl sts + stuff before you close the opening + 7 sl sts (close the opening).

1,2,3 – crocheting the slip stitch;

4 – the first side is finished (7 sl sts);

5 – the 2nd side is finished (14 sl sts);

6 – stuff firmly before you close the third side (7 sl sts)

Semicircle part (make 2)

 Semicircle:

 Himalaya Dolphin Baby: blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 4 sc in MR [4]

Rnd 2: 4 inc [8]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 4 [12]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 4 [16]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 4 [20]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 4 [24]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 4 [28]

Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 4 [32]

Rectangle:

Work in rows, in the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 33, insert the hook in 2nd st from hook and work 32 sc [32]

Rows 2-5: 32 sc [32]

Don’t cut the yarn, you will join the rectangle with the first semicircle.

Then join with the second one.

Semicircles and rectangle.

Joining rectangle with the first semicircle.

The right side.

The wrong side.

Joining rectangle with the second semicircle.

Two semicircles are joined with the rectangle. Only the base left to do.

Top view.

The base:

Work in rows, in the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 18, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 17 sc [17]

Rows 2-5: 17 sc [17]

Crochet the second part and sew the both parts on the opposite sides of the neck.

Sewing the base.

Sewing the semicircles on the opposite sides of the neck.

In part 1 we crocheted the head and body, neck and semicircle parts.

In part 2 we will continue crocheting the Thomas:

– the L-shape parts

– the back parts

– the grey and red rectangular base

– the eyes and sculpting the face.

A-1 (the right side)

Count 6 sts up from the bottom sc of the red stripe (see: white pins at the photo).

Start from rnd 24 of the blue body (this is BLO round; red pin at the photo below) and insert the hook under the sts of the body.

Row 1: 24 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [24]

Rows 2-5: 24 sc, 1 tch, turn [24]

A-1 (the left side)

Start from the round where you crocheted the first red stripe (after the last round of the black part) and work in the same way as for the right side.

A-2

Row 1: 10 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [10]

Rows 2-5: 10 sc, 1 tch, turn [10]

Crocheting the first row of A-2 on the left side of the train.

A-2 on the right side of the train.

A-3

Row 1: 12 FPSC, 1 tch, turn [12]

Rows 2-5: 12 sc, 1 tch, turn [12]

A-3 on the right side of the train.

A-4

Row 1: ch 16, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 15 sc [15]

Rows 2-12: 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

Row 13: BLO 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

Rows 14-17: 15 sc, 1 tch, turn [15]

A-4 for the right side of the train.

Sew the top side of A-4 to the cylindrical shape (without the bend that appear after you crochet in BLO). The bend and lower part shoud be loose.

Join the adjacent edges of A-1, A-2, A-3 and A-4 with sl sts:

The right side of the train with edges joined. Then you will sew the L-shape

A-5 (L-shape)

Row 1: ch 11, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 10 sc [10]

Rows 2-11: 10 sc, 1 tch, turn [10]

Row 12: 10 sc, ch 16 [25]

Row 13: insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 25 sc, 1 tch, turn [25]

Rows 14-42: 25 sc, 1 tch, turn [25]

I marked with the white yarn the lines and later I will crochet the red lines (this was just the sketch that changed while working on the project).

Join the L-shape with edges

The right side of the train.         

A-6 (the bottom rectangle for L-shape)

Row 1: ch 13, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 12 sc [12]

Rows 2-5: 12 sc, 1 tch, turn [12]

Bottom view. On the left there is a black rectangle of the neck, then the wider rectangle of the semicircle, then the rectangle of L-shape (A-6) and finally a big rectangle of the back (B-2).

THE BACK PART

Now crochet the back part.

B-1 (on the photo below it is marked as a red rectangle)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 16, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 15 sc [15]

Rows 2-20: 15 sc [15]

Side edges are joined with sl sts to the A-4 edge.

B-2 (the bottom part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 19, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 18 sc [18]

Rows 2-30: 18sc [18]

B-3 (the back vertical part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 31, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 30 sc [30]

Rows 2-12: 30 sc [30]

Row 13: dec, 26 sc, dec [28]

Row 14: dec, 24 sc, dec [26]

Sew the part in FLO (rnd 25 of the body) – dashed yellow arch on the photo below:

B-4 (the sides)

Crochet the first row, inserting the hook in the upper edge of L-shape (x in the photo below).

Start from the right side (adjacent to B-3 edge).

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Rows 1-10: 18 sc [18]

Rows 11-12: 14 sc [14]

The right side of the train.

 Crochet the same part for the left side of the train but start from the inside:

This is the back view. Add stuffing inside the L-shape part. You see the yellow and purple markers to join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left and the right part).

Join the edges with sl sts:

Join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the right side).

Join the edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left side).

The edges of B-3 and B-4 (the left side) are joined.

B-5 (the back)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

In this part you will crochet BLO in row 36 and row 40 to create the bend.

Row 1: ch 31, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 30 sc [30]

Rows 2-35: 30 sc [30]

Row 36 (horizontal part): BLO 30 sc [28]

Rows 37-39 (horizontal part): 30 sc [30]

Row 40 (vertical part): BLO 30 sc [30]

Row 41 (vertical part): 30 sc [30]

Row 42: dec, 26 sc, dec [28]

Row 43: dec, 24 sc, dec [26]

Crochet sl sts at the back in the row 36 to stiffen the bend.

Crochet sl sts from the inside in row 40 to stiffen the bend.

You get the train without the wheels. Stuff the train.

Then crochet the roof.

The black roof (upper part)

In the end of every row crochet 1 tch and turn the work.

Row 1: ch 15, insert the hook in 2nd chain from the hook and work 14 sc [14]

Rows 2-30: 14 sc [14]

Join the sides with single crochets, not slip stitches. Add stuffing before you close the upper part (then you will have no possibility to add more stuffing).

THE RED LINES

I had to adjust the lines to the size of the windows, so I changed the placement of the lines. I crocheted sl sts inserting the hook in the stitches of the L-shape.

GREY BASE

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: light grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Start with ch 33 (the width of the train), insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work:

Rows 1-60: 32 sc, 1 tch [32]

The size of the grey base = 21 x 43 cm

Sew the train to the grey base as shown in the photo below (the base is aligned to the back of the train):

RED BASE

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: red (two strands), crochet hook 9 mm

(You may crochet the base similar to the light grey base with crochet hook 4.5 mm, but add more rows to get the bend parts in the front and at the back).

Start with ch 18 (the width of the train), insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work:

Rows 1-42: 17 sc, 1 tch [17]

The size of the red base = 21 x 49 cm

The size of the red base without the bends is the same as for the light grey base – bends are additional, so adjust their size to your train.

Stiffen the bend with sl sts for the front part (count approx. 4 rows for the front bend).

Stiffen the bend with sl sts for the back part (count approx. 2 rows for the back bend).

The bottom part – you will sew the wheels to that part.

The top part with sl sts.

You will use the red base in part 3 of the pattern and sew the wheels to the base.

The train is standing on the grey base, so now you may sculpt the face and add the eyes (if you want to you may do it in the end of the work to be sure that they are sewed in proper place).

FACE SCULPTING (the eye sockets and the nose)

I shape the face with Himalaya Dolphin Baby, light grey

Before shaping the nose I marked the nose and cheeks with other yarn. I added pins (the photo below).

Follow the instruction below (the numbers are given on the photo above). If you start from the same point, insert the needle one stitch away.

Don’t be in a hurry – if you are not sure the final effect, try to shape the face with other contrasting yarn (to remove it later) and then try to repeat the same with invisible yarn or strong thread.

(2-1, 1-2) x two times

EYE (make 2)

Pupil (make 2)

YarnArt Jeans, black, crochet hook 2 mm.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

 Before crocheting the white I cut it from paper to check the proportion.

White (make 2)

YarnArt Jeans, white, crochet hook 2 mm.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing (I do invisible finish, instead of slip stitch in the end).

SMILE / LIPS

Lower lip is between rnds 7-8. I insert the hook in row 1 under the stitches of the face (FPSC). I crochet the lips keeping the Thomas’ face upside down.

Row 1: 12 FPSC, sl st, turn (no turning chain) [12]

Row 2: sl st, 10 sc, sl st [12]

Upper lip is between rnds 6-7.

Row 1: 8 FPSC [8]

Upper lips (view upside down)

Embroider the smile with the white HDB between the lips.

Additionally I shaped the lips, embroidered them with HDB, inserting the needle vertically.

Train without the wheels is made. In next part I will show you how to crochet:

– wheels

– frame for the wheels

– details (windows, chimneys, light, stairs, number 1)

 The train will be ready soon

WHEELS (make 6)  

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Wheels are crocheted tight and stuffed firmly.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: (1 sc, inc, 1 sc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 6: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc) x 6 [36]

Rnd 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 8: (3 sc, inc, 3 sc) x 6 [48]

Rnd 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 [54]

Rnd 10: (7 sc, dec) x 6 [48]

Rnd 11: (3 sc, dec, 3 sc) x 6 [42]

Rnd 12: (5 sc, dec) x 6 [36]

Rnd 13: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc) x 6 [30]

Rnd 14: (3 sc, dec) x 6 [24]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 15: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 16: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 17: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, hide loose ends.

The centre of the wheel: blue circle + star lines

1. Insert the hook in rnd 7 and crochet sl sts around.

2. Cut long yarn tail and embroider the star lines (the centre is in the MR).

3. Go to the centre of the wheel and embroider woven wheel stitch (see: the tutorial about four leaf clover).

Place the wheels on the red base, check if they are placed right and finally sew them.

Grey frame for the train

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: dark grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Firstly I made 3 dark grey stripes to join the opposite wheels…

…but then I realized it is not quite good idea (stripes were too flexible and I needed something to stiffen them).

To stiffen the base I came up with an idea of making the frame with PVC pipe (two types of diameter):

1. thinner (x 3) for joining the opposite wheels (8 cm long, 12 mm in diameter) and I crochet the tube for the pipe:

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2-13: 6 sc [6]

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing crochet tube to the wheels.

2. thicker for the train length (41 cm long, 2 cm in diameter).

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3-55: 12 sc [12]

 Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing crochet tube.

Grey connectors for the wheels (make 4)

Himalaya Dolphin Baby: dark grey, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 3, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 2 sc [2]

Rows 2-20: 2 sc [2]

Finally crochet the blue screws: 3 sc in MR and fasten off leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the screws to the connectors.

Join the red and light grey base with sl sts. Join with the red HDB yarn.

Additional parts:

– chimneys

– windows

– white light

– number 1

Blue chimney

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR [5]

Rnd 2: 5 inc [10]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 5 [15]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 5 [20]

Rnds 5-12: 20 sc [20]

Rnd 13: BLO (2 sc, dec) x 5 [15]

Rnd 14: (1 sc, dec) x 5 [10]

Rnd 15: 5 dec [5]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing.

Black chimney

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 5 sc in MR [5]

Rnd 2: 5 inc [10]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 5 [15]

Rnd 4: (2 sc, inc) x 5 [20]

Rnd 5: BLO 20 sc [20]

Rnd 6: (8 sc, dec) x 2 [18]

Rnds 7-16: 18 sc [18]

Rnd 17: (2 sc, inc) x 6 [24]

Rnd 18: (2 sc, dec) x 6 [18]

Rnd 19: BLO 18 sc [18]

Rnd 20: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 21: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off, leaving a long tail for sewing. Insert the tapestry needle in the centre of the last rnd and pull to make the hollow

Black circle (make 2)

Himalaya Dolphin Baby or Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Black circle with the yellow edging (make 2)

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Change to yellow Alize Softy:

Rnd 4: 18 sc around [18]

Black wider rectangle with the yellow edging (make 2 on the opposite sides)

Before I started crocheting the part, I had pinned the paper parts to determine the size and proportions. On the photo you see also the grey circle with the yellow edging (I changed it later to the black circle which is better in my opinion)

 Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 7, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 6 sc [6]

Rows 2-8: 6 sc [6]

Change to yellow Alize Softy and work single crochets around the edge (ch 1 in each corner).

In the middle of the bottom part change to black (4 sc).

Black narrow rectangle with the yellow edging (make 2 on the opposite sides)

Alize Softy: black, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Work in rows: 1 tch and turn in the end of each row.

Row 1: ch 7, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 6 sc [6]

Rows 2: 6 sc [6]

Change to yellow Alize Softy and work single crochets around the edge (ch 1 in each corner).

NUMBER 1

Alize Softy, yellow, crochet hook 4.5 mm

Row 1: ch 5, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 4 sc [4]

Rows 2-8: 4 sc [4]

Row 9: 4 sc, ch 4

Row 10: insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 7 sc [7]

Row 11: 5 sc, dec, turn (no turning chain) [6]

Row 12: dec, 4 sc, 1 tch, turn [5]

Row 13: 3 sc, dec [4]

Fasten off, cut the yarn, leaving a tail for sewing.

WHITE LIGHT

Himalaya Dolphin Baby, small amount of white and light blue, crochet hook 4.5 mm.

Start with light blue.

Rnd 1: 6 sc in MR [6]

Rnd 2: 6 inc [12]

Cut the yarn, do invisible finish.

Change to white.

Rnd 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 [18]

Rnd 4: 18 sc [18]

Add stuffing before you close the opening.

Rnd 5: (1 sc, dec) x 6 [12]

Rnd 6: 6 dec [6]

Fasten off.

To make the base, insert the hook in the bottom of the light and crochet FPSC around (photo on the right).

BLACK FRONT PART (make 2)

Work in rows, 1 tch in the end of every row.

Row 1: ch 15, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 14 sc [14]

Row 2: 14 sc [14]

Row 3: 8 sc [8]

Row 4: dec, 6 sc [7]

Row 5: 7 sc [7]

Row 6: dec, 5 sc [6]

Sew the parts in the front part of the train, as on the photo below.

STAIRS (make 2)

Work in rows, 1 tch in the end of every row.

Row 1: ch 5, insert the hook in 2nd st from the hook and work 4 sc [4]

Row 2: 4 sc [4]

Row 3: BLO 4 sc [4] (BLO indicates the folding at 90 degrees).

Row 4: 4 sc [4]

Crochet the 2nd stairs step in the same way and then sew two steps as shown in the phoot below (lower step is sewed to the folding of the upper one).

The post Train Thomas Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Toy size and amount of material used 

depends on your knitting density and yarn thickness. 

I got a toy 34-35 cm in size, 

with horns – 43 cm, barrel 7 cm. 

Materials: 

1. Yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby (HDB) / YarnArt Dolce -1 skein (100 gr., 120 m) 

(it took me 90 g for the toy) main color (in the photo HDB color yellow # 313) 

2. Yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby / YarnArt Dolce – 1 skein (I have 

it took 50 gr. – additional color black. 

3. Yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby / YarnArt Dolce – it took me 15 grams. 

(a keg of honey) – additional color (in the photo brown Dolce YarnArt 754) 

4. Hook number 4 

5. Filler holofiber 

6. Threads for sewing parts, any 

7. Stitching needle (long) 

8. Wire for pens ~ 38 cm, diameter ~ 1 mm 

9. Blue sticks for fixing the horns (any color), you can use a wire ~ 27 cm. 

10. Pliers for bending and cutting off the wire (you can use scissors) 

11. Plaster for wrapping the ends of the wire 

12. Felt (white, black, blue, red) for eyes, eyebrows, mouth 

(you can use ordinary eyes, and embroider the nose, mouth and eyebrows with threads) 

13. Any decorative button for decorating a barrel of honey 

14. Your great mood! 

ABBREVATİONS 

SC – single crochet 

INC – increase 

DEC – decrease 

DC – double crochet 

INC DC – Increase double crochet 

(… ..) * – repeat the specified number of times 

PATTERN

Lower feet: 

yarn color yellow: 

1 p. – dial 5 CH (5) 

2 p. – from the second from the hook, knit 4 SC, 3 DC in one loop, 4 SC = (11) 

3 p. – INC, 3 SC, 6 INC DC, 1 SC = (19) 

4 p. – 19 SC for the back wall of the hinge (19) 

5 p. – DEC, 5 SC, 3DEC, 4 SC, DEC = (14) 

6 p. – 5 SC, 2DEC, 5 SC = (12), change color to black 

7 p. – 12 SC (12) (fill the base of the foot, do not fill further) 

8 p. – DEC, 8 SC, DEC (10) 

9-20 p. – 10 SC (10) 

21 p. – fold the foot in half and knit 5 sc, knit the second 

Upper paws: 

We start in yellow 

1 p. – 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 p. – 6 INC (12) 

3-4 p. – 12 SC unchanged (12) 

5 p. – 1 SC + DEC to the end of the row (8) 

6 p. – 2DEC, 4 SC (6), change color to black, 

fill with a little filler 

7-21 p. – 6 SC unchanged (6), leave thread 

for sewing to the body 

Head: 

Yellow color 

1 p. – 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 p. – 6 INC (12) 

3 p. – 1SC + INC (to the end of the row) (18) 

4 p. – 1SC + INC (to the end of the row) (27) 

5 p. – 2 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (36) 

6-10 p. – 36 SC unchanged (36) 

11 p. – DEC, 16 SC, DEC, 16 SC (34) 

12 p. – DEC, 15 SC, DEC, 13 SC, 2 INC (34) 

13 p. – 2 INC, 12 SC, 4 INC, 16 SC (40) 

14 p. – 2 INC, 15 SC, 2 INC, 21 SC (44) 

15 -16 R. – 44 SC unchanged (44) (we fill in the course of knitting) 

17 p. – 2DEC, 15 SC, 2DEC, 21 SC (40) 

18 p. – 2DEC, 12 SC, 4DEC, 16 SC (34) 

19 p. – (2SC + DEC) * 8, 2 SC (26) 

20 p. – 26 SC unchanged (26) 

21 p. – (1SC + DEC) * 8, 2 SC (18) 

22 p. – 9 DEC (9) 

23 p. – 4DEC, 1 SC, fasten thread 

Horns: 

We start yellow 

1 p. – 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 p. – 6 INC (12) 

3 p. – 6 DEC (6) 

4 p. – DEC, 4 SC (5), change color to brown 

(or black) and fill the base of the horns 

5-15 p. – 5 SC, knit the second 

Torso: 

We start in yellow: 

1 p. – 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 p. – 2 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (8) 

3 p. – 1 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (12) 

4 p. – 12 SC unchanged (12), change the thread color to black 

(then, every 2 rows, alternate the color of the thread) 

5 p. 1 SC + INC (to end of row) (18) 

6 p. – 18 SC unchanged (18), change the thread color to yellow 

7 p. – 2 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (24) 

8 p. – 24 SC unchanged (24), change thread color to black 

9 p. – 3 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (30) 

10 p. – 30 SC unchanged (30), change the thread color to yellow 

11 p. – 4 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (36) 

12 p. – 36 SC unchanged (36), change thread color to black 

13 p. – 5 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (42) 

14 p. – 42 SC unchanged (42), change the thread color to yellow 

15 p. – 6 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (48) 

16 p. – 48 SC unchanged (48), change thread color to black 

17-21 p. – 48 SC unchanged (48), every 2 rows change color: 

17, 18- black, 19,20- yellow, 21- black 

22 p. – 18 SC, 6 DEC, 18 SC (42), change the thread color to yellow 

(belly), we fill in the course of knitting 

23-24 p. – 42 SC unchanged (42), change thread color to black 

25 p. – 5 SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (36) 

26 p. – 36 SC unchanged (36), change the thread color to yellow 

27 p. – 4 SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (30) 

28 p. – 30 SC unchanged (30), change thread color to black 

29 p. – 3 SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (24) 

30 p. – 24 SC unchanged (24), change thread color to yellow 

31 p. – 2 SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (18) 

32 p. – 18 SC unchanged (18), fasten the thread 

Wings: 

Knit in yellow, DO NOT stuff 

1 p. – 6 SC into magic ring (6) 

2 p. – 6 INC (12) 

3 p. – 1SC + INC (to the end of the row) (18) 

4 p. – 2SC + INC (to the end of the row) (24) 

5 p. – 3SC + INC (to the end of the row) (30) 

7-9 p. – 30 SC unchanged (30) 

10 p. – 3SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (24) 

11 p. – 2SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (18) 

12 p. – 1SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (12) 

13 p. – 1SC + INC (to the end of the row) (18) 

14 p. – 2 SC + INC (to the end of the row) (24) 

15 p. – 3SC + INC (to the end of the row) (30) 

17-19 p. – 30 SC unchanged (30) 

20 p. – 3SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (24) 

21 p. – 2SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (18) 

22 p. – 1SC + DEC (to the end of the row) (12) 

23 p. – 6DEC (6), close the hole 

Backpack: 

We start with brown yarn: 

1 p. – 8 SC into magic ring (8) 

2 p. – 8 INC (16) 

3 p. – 1 SC + Inc to the end of the row (24) 

4 p. – 24 SC for the back wall of the hinge (24) 

5-8 p. – 24 SC unchanged (24) 

9 p. – 4 + DEC to end of row (20) 

10 p. – 20 SC unchanged (20), change color to yellow 

11 p. – 20 SC for the back wall of the hinge (20) 

12 p. – 20 SC unchanged (20) (we fill in the course of knitting) 

13 p. – 10 DEC (10) 

14 p. – 5 DEC (5), close the hole, sew a button on the barrel 

Keg straps: fasten the yellow thread in the 11th row, knit 27 CH, fasten the thread at the bottom of the keg above the place where it was originally fastened, knit 27 CH, fasten the thread in the 11th row. 

Assembly: 

1. Make eyes, eyebrows, mouth out of felt (shown in previous posts, see Instagram account), templates are also saved, 

you can use any you like on the Internet or use ordinary eyes, noses and embroider a face. 

Eyebrows are sewn / embroidered in the 6th row (count from the crown), length 3 cm 

Eyes, if we sew felt in the 8th row (count from the crown), length 4.5 cm, width 2 cm 

I embroidered the nose with brown plush yarn in the 14th row, 2 cm wide 

Mouth in row 15 width 4 cm, length 2.5 cm 

2. Make the horns bendable (shown in previous posts, see Instagram account) and sew them on the head in the 3rd row on the sides of the head. 

3. Make the handles bendable (shown in previous posts, see Instagram account) and sew them to the body m / y 3 and 4 next to it (counting the rows from the top of the body). 

4. Sew on the legs in the 20th row, counting the rows from the top of the body 

5. Sew on the wings in row 10, counting the rows from the top of the body, sew in the middle of the wings, grabbing the loops of the body. 

The post Bee Zuza Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Knitted Captain from the game Among Us 

List of materials 

Yarn Children’s whim 50 g / 225 m – blue, white, black, gray 

A bit of yellow thread for embroidery on a cap and shoulder straps. 

Needle for sewing on details and embroidery. 

Colorless glue “Moment”, or the one that you use 

Filler 

Hook No. 1.25 

When using this yarn, the height of the toy is 11-12 cm 

Abbreviations: 

sc – single crochet 

HDC – half double crochet 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

sl-st- slip stitch 

ch – chain 

(12) – number of loops in a row 

PATTERN

Legs 

blue 

1 row – MAGIC RING 6 sc (6) 

2nd row – 6 inc (12) 

3 row – (sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

4 row – 18 sc (18) 

the black 

5 row – 18 sc (18) do not cut the thread, leave on the seamy side 

blue 

6 row – 18 sc 

Now let’s go back to the black row – insert the hook into the first column of the black row, grab the black 

thread and make a loop on the face, then we knit the entire black row with connecting posts, 

while the thread remains all the time from the inside out. 

Thus, knit all black stripes of the body. 

Row 7-9 – 18 sc, cut off the thread. 

We knit the second leg in the same way, but we do not cut the thread 

We fill with filler during knitting. 

Connect the legs 

Knit 3 chain stitches and connect with the other leg at the end of the row. 

Body 

blue 

Row 10 – (18 sc at leg, 3 sc at sts) x 2 (42) 

11-13 row – 42 sc 

the black 

14 row – 42 sc 

white 

15-18 row – 42 sc 

the black 

19 row – 42 sc 

white 

20-30 rows – 42 sc 

31 row – (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36) 

32 row – (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30) 

33 row – (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24) 

34 row – (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18) 

35 row – (sc, dec) x 6 (12) 

36 row – 6 dec (6) 

Cut the thread, pull off the hole, hide the thread. 

Screen 

Knits in a circle 

grey 

Cast on 6 stitches 

Row 1 – in 3 sc, 2 sc, 3 sc in one loop, on the reverse side 3 sc, 3 sc in one loop (12) 

2nd row – 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc (18) 

3 row -, 3 sc, (sc, inc) x 3, 3 sc, (sc, inc) x 3 (24) 

4 row -, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 3, 3 sc, 2 (sc, inc) x 3 (30) 

5 row – 30 sc 

the black 

6 row – 30 sc, leave thread to sew on. 

Backpack 

Knits in white. 

1 row – MAGIC RING 8 sc (6) 

2 row – (sc, inc) x 4 (12) 

3 row – (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16) 

4th row – (3 sc, 3 sc in one loop) x 4 (24) 

5 row – (4 sc, 2 inc) x 4 (32) 

6 row – 5 sc, inc, ch, inc, (6 sc, inc, ch, inc) х 3, sc (40) 

You should get a square, we knit an additional 8 sc to the corner 

7 row – for back half loops 40 sc 

8 row – 40 sc 

9 row – (8 sc, dec) x 4 

Decreases should be in the corners to form the corners of the backpack. 

We leave the thread for sewing. 

Cap 

Knit in white 

1 row – Magic ring into 6 sc 

2nd row – 6 inc (12) 

3 row – (sc, inc) x 6 (18) 

4 row – sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) х 5, sc (24) 

5 row – (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30) 

6 row – 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) x 5, 2 sc (36) 

7 row – (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42) 

8 row – 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc) x 5, 3 sc (48) 

9 row – (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54) 

10 row – (2 sc, dec) x 13, dec (40) 

Now we need to strengthen the top of the cap. To do this, you need to cut a circle to the size of the bottom of the cap made of cardboard or plastic, fix it inside with glue. 

11 row – 8 sc, dec, (8 HDC, dec HDC) x 2, 8 sc, dec (36) 

12 row – 6 sc, 24 HDC, 6 sc (36) 

Row 13 – 11 sc, 14 HDC, 11 sc (36) 

Row 14-15 – 10 sc, 16 HDC, 10 sc (36) 

16 row – 8 sc, 20 HDC, 6 sc, 2 sl-st (36) 

Cut the thread and hide. 

We knit a visor with a black thread in rotary rows 

1 row – 10 loops from the last we fasten the thread, 16 inc, sc, ch 

Row 2 – sk from previous row, 5 sc, 20 HDC, 5 sc, 2 sl-st, ch 

3 row – 3 sl-st, 4 sc, 13 HDC, 4 sc, sl-st to the end of the visor, and then tie the remaining white bottom of the cap with sc. 

Assembly 

Sew the backpack on the back, adding a little filler to it so that the backpack keeps its shape. 

Sew on the screen, departing from the upper black stripe 3 rows. 

We embroider a collar, shoulder straps, a sign on a cap. 

Add some filler to the front of the cap so that it is taller and sewn or glued to the body. 

Make a tie in any convenient way – knit, embroider, draw. 

The post Among Us Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Abbreviations

Mr = Magic ring

sc = single crochet

inc = Increase

dec = decrease

sl-st = slip-stitch

dc =double crochet

Please note that the legs

fit in different ways!

PATTERN

First leg:

Start in red.

1st row: 6sc into magic ring

2nd row: inc into magic ring waiting for the loop (12sc)

3rd row: (1sc, inc) * 6 (18sc)

Next, prepare the insoles. On the sheet

circle the outsole, cut, and

for this pattern of plastic

make round insoles for shoes.

(In this toy, insoles are used

sole sole only,

the toy is not worth it yourself, as

the cap outweighs. Therefore their

availability is optional).

4th row: behind the back wall of the 18sc loop

5-6 rows: 18sc (2 rows)

Insert the plastic insole inside.

7 row: 6dec, 6sc (12sc)

8 row: 12sc

Change the color to green:

9 row: (1sc, inc) * 6 (18sc)

10-11 rows: 18sc (2 rows)

Make slst. Finish knitting, thread

fasten and cut.

Second leg:

Start in red.

1st row: 6sc into magic ring

2nd row: inc into magic ring waiting for the loop (12sc)

3rd row: (1sc, inc) * 6 (18sc)

4th row: behind the back wall of the 18sc loop

5-6 rows: 18sc (2 rows)

Insert the plastic insole inside.

7 row: 6sc, 6dec (12sc)

8 row: 12sc

Change the color to green:

9 row: (1sc, inc) * 6 (18sc)

10-11 rows: 18sc (2 rows)

On the second leg, knit another 20sc,

but do not cut the thread, but continue

knit the body. Put your legs close

check that the decavings are exactly

in front.

12 row: attach the second leg to

the first leg where they finished knitting

(into the loop following the slst), knit

18sc for the first part, then 18sc for

second part (36sc)

In this place you need to install

marker (marker is in front).

13 row: (5sc, inc) * 6 (42sc)

14-19 rows: 42sc (6 rows)

20 row: (5sc, dec) * 6 (36sc)

21-22 rows: 36sc (2 rows)

23 row: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5, 2sc (30sc)

24-25 rows: 30sc (2 rows)

At this stage, you need to transfer the marker, for this, knit another 8sc

(or other necessary amount) so that it is exactly on the side, and change

color on white. Now here will be the beginning of the series.

26 row: behind the rear wall of the 30sc loop

27 row: 30sc

28 row: (3sc, dec) * 6 (24sc)

29-30 rows: 24sc (2 rows)

31 row: 1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, 1 sc (18sc)

Change the color to beige:

32 row: 18sc

33 row: inc into magic ring each loop (36sc)

34 row: (5sc, inc) * 6 (42sc)

35 row: 3sc, inc, (6sc, inc) * 5, 3sc (48sc)

36-44 rows: 48sc (9 rows)

45 row: 3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5, 3sc (42sc)

46 row: (5sc, dec) * 6 (36sc)

47 row: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5, 2sc (30sc)

48 row: (3sc, dec) * 6 (24sc)

49 row: 1sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, 1sc (18sc)

50 row: (1sc, dec) * 6 (12sc)

Fasten and cut the thread, leaving a long tip with which

tighten the remaining hole.

Hide the tail of the thread inside the head.

Spout:

Tie in beige, lightly fill:

1st row: 6sc into magic ring

2 row: inc into magic ring each loop (12sc)

3rd row: 6 dec (6sc)

Fasten the thread, cut, leaving a long end for sewing.

Pens:

Tie the two pieces together, knit in a knitting process. Fill tightly only

lower part, then fill medium, the upper part does not need to be filled.

Start in red:

1st row: 6sc into magic ring

2 row: inc into magic ring each loop (12sc)

3-5 rows: 12sc (3 rows)

6 row: (4sc, dec) * 2 (10sc)

Change the color to white:

7-11 rows: 10sc (5 rows)

12 row: (3sc, dec) * 2 (8sc)

13-15 rows: 8sc (3 rows)

Fold the edges of the part together, knit

4sc. Fasten the thread, cut, leaving

long end for sewing.

Design and assembly:

Sew the handles symmetrically on the sides,

previously securing them with pins.

Sew eyelets between 39 and 40

(the distance between them is 2

sc), embroider the eyebrows with the same thread.

Sew a nose under the eyes.

Next, make a beard. For this from

Alize Softy Yarn Cook 19

lengths of 12cm. Fasten them with

using the hook on row 38 (see

a photo). I got 7 pcs with

both sides of the nose and 5 pcs under the nose

(for density you can add another row

below). Trim your beard.

Cap:

In white, dial a chain of 44 ch and use slst to close it in a circle.

1 row: 2 ch lift, 44DC, slst (44dc)

2 row: 1 ch lift, 44sc, slst (44sc)

Change the color to red.

Further, each row of the cap begins with a 2 ch rise and ends with a slst.

3rd row: behind the front wall of the 44DC loop

4-5 rows: 44DC (2 rows)

6 row: (20DC, dec) * 2 (42dc)

7 row: 10 DC, dec, 19DC, dec, 9DC (40dc)

8 row: (18DC, dec) * 2 (38dc)

9 row: 9DC, dec, 17DC, dec, 8DC (36dc)

10 row: (16DC, dec) * 2 (34dc)

11 row: 8DC, dec, 15DC, dec, 7DC (32dc)

12 row: (14DC, dec) * 2 (30dc)

13 Series: 7DC, dec, 13DC, dec, 6DC (28dc)

14 row: (12DC, dec) * 2 (26dc)

15 row: 6DC, dec, 11DC, dec, 5DC (24dc)

16 row: (10DC, dec) * 2 (22dc)

17 row: 5DC, dec, 9DC, dec, 4DC (20dc)

18 row: (8DC, dec) * 2 (18dc)

19 row: 4DC, dec, 7DC, dec, 3DC (16dc)

20 row: (6DC, dec) * 2 (14dc)

21 row: 3DC, dec, 5DC, dec, 2DC (12dc)

22 row: (4DC, dec) * 2 (10dc)

Amigurumi23 row: 2

The post Little Santa Claus Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

YarnArt Jeans hand knitting yarns;

1 piece of Black (53) color rope

1 piece Red (51) color rope

1 Green (52) color rope

1 piece of White (62) color rope

1 Salmon (73) color rope

Kartopu Mother’s Lamb White (K010) color hand knitting yarn

La Mia Mohair Boucle Gray (L031) color baby hair yarn

3 mm crochet hook

2 pairs of 12 mm amigurumi eyes

Bead fiber, needle

Abbreviations

SC: single crochet

INC: Increase

DEC: Decrease

Ch: Chain

Hdc: Half double crochet

Hdcinc: Half double crochet increase

Hdcdec: Half double crochet decrease

Dc: double crochet

Dcinc: double crochet increase

Blo: Knitting by sinking into the back of the loops

Flo: Knitting by sinking the front of the loops

PATTERN

Head

It is knitted with salmon color thread.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) (1SC, 1INC) * 6 (18)

4) (2SC, 1INC) * 6 (24)

5) (3SC, 1INC) * 6 (30)

6) (4SC, 1INC) * 6 (36)

7) (5SC, 1INC) * 6 (42)

8) (6SC, 1INC) * 6 (48)

9) (7SC, 1INC) * 6 (54)

10) (8SC, 1INC) * 6 (60)

11) (9SC, 1INC) * 6 (66)

12-17) 66SC

18) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (eye area), 54SC (60)

19-22) 60SC

23) (8SC, 1DEC) * 6 (54)

24) (7SC, 1DEC) * 6 (48)

25) (6SC, 1DEC) * 6 (42)

26) (5SC, 1DEC) * 6 (36)

27) (4SC, 1DEC) * 6 (30)

28) (3SC, 1DEC) * 6 (24)

29) (2SC, 1DEC) * 6 (18)

30) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

31) 6DEC (6)

Feet (2 pieces)

It starts with black rope.

1) 10 chains are drawn. 8SC from the second chain, 5SC to the same loop, 7SC to the other side of the chain, 1INC (22)

2) 1INC, 3SC, 2HDC, 2DC, 5DCINC, 2DC, 2HDC, 3SC, 2INC (30)

3) 2SC, 1INC, 7SC, (1INC, 2SC) * 4, 5SC, 1INC, 2SC (36)

4) BLO 36SC

5-7) 36SC

8) 12SC, 12HDC, 12SC (36)

9) 12SC, 6HDCDEC, 12SC (30)

10) 5SC, (1SC, 1DEC) * 6, 7SC (24)

11) 1DEC, 6SC, 4DEC, 6SC, 1DEC (18)

12) (4SC, 1DEC) * 3 (15)

13-16) 15SC

Red color is passed on the rope.

17) BLO 15SC

18) (4SC, 1INC) * 3 (18)

19) 18SC

20) (5SC, 1INC) * 3 (21)

21) 21SC

22) (6SC, 1INC) * 3 (24)

23-25) 24SC

Body

1) 2Ch legs are combined.

2) 24SC first leg, 2SC on 2Ch, 24SC second leg, 2SC on 2Ch (46)

3) 2INC, 44SC (48)

4-5) 48SC

6) (6SC, 1DEC) * 6 (42)

7) 42SC

8) BLO 42SC

Black color is used.

9) 42SC

10-11) 42SC

Red color is passed on the rope.

12) 42SC

13) (5SC, 1DEC) * 6 (36)

14-15) 36SC

17) (4SC, 1DEC) * 6 (30)

18-21) 30SC

22) (3SC, 1DEC) * 6 (24)

23) 24SC

25) (2SC, 1DEC) * 6 (18)

Salmon color rope is passed.

26) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

Jacket

It starts with a red thread.

1) 41DC to FLO of the BLO on the line 8) of the trunk

2) 2Ch, 41DC

3) 1Ch, 41SC

White color is passed on the rope.

4) A reverse needle is made in a row.

Nose

It is knitted with salmon color thread.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3-4) 12SC

5) 6DEC (6)

Hat

It starts with white color rope.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) (1SC, 1INC) * 6 (18)

4-5) 18SC

6) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

7) 6DEC (6)

Red color is passed on the rope.

8) (1SC, 1INC) * 3 (9)

9) 2Ch, 9DC

10) 2Ch, (2DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (12)

11) 2Ch, (3DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (15)

12) 2Ch, (4DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (18)

13) 2Ch, (5DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (21)

14) 2Ch, (6DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (24)

15) 2Ch, (7DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (27)

16) 2Ch, (8DC, 1DCINC) * 3 (30)

17) 2Ch, (4DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (36)

18) 2Ch, (5DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (42)

19) 2Ch, (6DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (48)

20) 2Ch, (7DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (54)

White color is passed on the rope.

21) 54DC

Hands (2 pieces)

It starts with salmon color rope.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) 12SC

4) Quad peanuts, 11SC

5) 2DEC, 8SC (10)

Red color is passed on the rope.

6) BLO 10SC

7) 10SC up to the desired size

8) 5DEC (5)

For beard and hair, tassels are made with the main lamb rope. Buttons are sewn to the belt.

Eyes are attached to the nose.

Christmas Mom

Head

It is knitted with salmon color thread.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) (1SC, 1INC) * 6 (18)

4) (2SC, 1INC) * 6 (24)

5) (3SC, 1INC) * 6 (30)

6) (4SC, 1INC) * 6 (36)

7) (5SC, 1INC) * 6 (42)

8) (6SC, 1INC) * 6 (48)

9) (7SC, 1INC) * 6 (54)

10) (8SC, 1INC) * 6 (60)

11) (9SC, 1INC) * 6 (66)

12-17) 66SC

18) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (eye area), 54SC (60)

19-22) 60SC

23) (8SC, 1DEC) * 6 (54)

24) (7SC, 1DEC) * 6 (48)

25) (6SC, 1DEC) * 6 (42)

26) (5SC, 1DEC) * 6 (36)

27) (4SC, 1DEC) * 6 (30)

28) (3SC, 1DEC) * 6 (24)

29) (2SC, 1DEC) * 6 (18)

30) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

31) 6DEC (6)

Feet (2 pieces)

It starts with a red thread.

1) 10 chains are drawn. 8SC from the second chain, 5SC to the same loop, 7SC to the other side of the chain, 1INC (22)

2) 1INC, 3SC, 2HDC, 2DC, 5DCINC, 2DC, 2HDC, 3SC, 2INC (30)

3) 2SC, 1INC, 7SC, (1INC, 2SC) * 4, 5SC, 1INC, 2SC (36)

4) BLO 36SC

5-7) 36SC

8) 12SC, 12HDC, 12SC (36)

9) 12SC, 6HDCDEC, 12SC (30)

10) 5SC, (1SC, 1DEC) * 6, 7SC (24)

11) 1DEC, 6SC, 4DEC, 6SC, 1DEC (18)

12) (4SC, 1DEC) * 3 (15)

13-16) 15SC

17) FLO reverse frequent needle 15SC

Green color is passed on the rope.

18) BLO (5SC, 1DEC) * 2, 1SC (13)

It is continued by knitting with 3 rows of Green and 2 rows of white yarn.

19-43) 13SC

Body

1) Legs are joined with 2Ch.

2) 13SC first leg, 2SC on 2CH, 13SC second leg, 2SC on 2Ch (30)

Green color is passed on the rope.

3-4) 30SC

Red color is passed on the rope.

5) 30SC

6) BLO 30SC

7-16) 30SC

17) (3SC, 1DEC) * 6 (24)

18) (2SC, 1DEC) * 6 (18)

19) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

Skirt

The red color is knitted with silk.

1) 2Ch to FLO of BLO in row 6) of the trunk, (4DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (36)

2) (5DC, 1DCINC) * 6 (42)

3-4) 42DC

White color is passed on the rope.

5) 42SC

6) A reverse needle is made in a row.

Hands (2 pieces)

It starts with salmon color rope.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) 12SC

4) Quad peanuts, 11SC

5) 2DEC, 8SC (10)

6) BLO 10SC

White color is passed on the rope.

7) FLO inverted needle is made.

Red color is passed on the rope.

8) 10sc up to desired size

9) 5DEC (5)

Hat

It starts with white color rope.

1) MAGIC RING 6SC

2) 6INC (12)

3) (1SC, 1INC) * 6 (18)

4-5) 18SC

6) (1SC, 1DEC) * 6 (12)

7) 6DEC (6)

Red color is passed on the rope.

8) 6SC

9) (1SC, 1INC) * 3 (9)

10) 9SC

11) (2SC, 1INC) * 3 (12)

12) 12sc

13) (3SC, 1INC) * 3 (15)

14) 15SC

15) Knit a row of increase, a row of normal knitting until the desired size is reached.

The last row is knitted with white thread.

Hair is made to the desired length with gray thread.

Eyes are attached to the eye cavities and nose and mouth processing is done.

The post Amigurumi Christmas Mom and Santa Claus Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Necessary materials:

• Yarn yellow, dark yellow, light green, green,

dark green, red, pink, blue, white,

black, brown and beige;

• A hook suitable for your yarn;

• Filler;

• Needles4

• scissors;

• 2 beads 2 mm and 2 – 4 mm;

• Felt yellow;

• 4 buttons of red color d-1 cm;

• 8 flowers 6 mm: 4 pink, 4 blue;

• Clockwork (more precisely, arrows);

• Thick cardboard;

• Super glue;

• Double sided tape.

ABBREVIATIONS

• CH – chain;

• Sl-st – slip stitch;

• Sc – single crochet;

• Hdc – half double crochet;

• Hd2c – half double 2 crochet;

• Dc – double crochet;

• İnc – increase;

• Dec – decrease.

FRONT PANEL (start with yellow yarn):

• Dial 8 CH *

1 row: from the second loop from the hook: 7 dc (7)

2 row: CH (or 2 CH, to whom it is more convenient), turn, 2 dc in one loop, 5 dc, 2 dc in

single loop (9)

3 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 7 dc, 2 dc in one loop (11)

4 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 9 dc, 2 dc in one loop (13)

• Change to a light green yarn *

5 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 11 dc, 2 dc in one loop (15)

• Change to yellow yarn *

6 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 13 dc, 2 dc in one loop (17)

• Change to dark yellow yarn *

7 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 15 dc, 2 dc in one loop (19)

8 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 17 dc, 2 dc in one loop (21)

• Change to yellow yarn *

9 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 19 dc, 2 dc in one loop (23)

• Change to a light green yarn *

10 row: CH, rotation, 2 dc in one loop, 1 dc, (1 dc we knit in a loop in two rows

below, 2 dc) x6, 1 dc in the loop two rows below, 1 dc, 2 dc in one loop (25)

• Change to dark yellow yarn *

11 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 23 dc, 2 dc in one loop (27)

12 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 25 dc, 2 dc in one loop (29)

13 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop, 27 dc, 2 dc in one loop (31)

• Change to yellow yarn *

14 row: CH, turn, dc to EACH loop (31)

• Change to a light green yarn *

15 row: CH, turn, dc to EACH loop (31)

• Change to dark yellow yarn *

16 row: CH, turn, dc to EACH loop (31)

• Change to red yarn *

17-18 rows: CH, turn, dc in EACH loop (31)

• Change to pink yarn *

19 row: CH, turn, dc to EACH loop (31)

20-31 rows: 2 CH, turn, skip the loop from which knitted CH, hd2c to EVERY

loop (31)

• Change to red yarn *

32-33 rows: CH, turn, dc per EACH loop (31)

• Change to blue yarn *

34 row: CH, turn, dc to EACH loop (31)

35-39 rows: 2 CH, turn, skip the loop from which knitted CH, hd2c to EVERY loop (31)

40 row: 20-31 rows: 2 CH, turn, skip the loop from which knitted CH, hd2c in

every loop (31)

Tie a part in a circle dc.

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Take cardboard about 1 cm (on all sides) less than the resulting part.

Glue double-sided tape around the edges.

Glue the part to the cardboard, bending the edges.

DIGITAL (start with yellow yarn):

• Dial 6 CH and lock into the ring (do not pull it together!) *

1 row: 2 dc in each loop (12)

2 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in each loop) x6 (18)

• Change to dark yellow yarn *

3 row: (2 dc, 2 dc in each loop) x6 (24)

• Change to yellow yarn *

4th row: (3 dc, 2 dc per EACH loop) x6 (30)

5 row: (4 dc, 2 dc in each loop) x6 (36)

• Change to dark yellow yarn *

6 row: (5 dc, 2 dc in each loop) x6 (42)

• Change to a light green yarn *

7 row: (6 dc, 2 dc per EACH loop) x6 (48)

8 row: dc in each loop (48)

9 row: behind the back wall of the loop: (6 dc, 2 dc

together) x 6 (42)

10 row: (5 dc, 2 dc together) x6 (36)

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Unfortunately, there are no photos of the process. I just

I realized that after the 10th row the watch is fastened

mechanism. Most likely it should be ordinary

board with arrows.

• Attach a dark green thread to the front loops of the 9th row *

11 row: sc in EACH loop (36)

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew the dial to the front of the watch.

Glue the red buttons for 3, 6, 9 and 12 hours, pink and blue for the rest

numbers.

ROOF (2 parts, red yarn):

• Dial 12 CH *

1 row: from the third loop from the hook: 2 dc in one loop, 9 dc, 2 dc in one loop, 9 dc (22)

2-31 rows: behind the back wall of the loop: dc in each loop (22)

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread on one part, leave on the second

long end for sewing.

Cut a base from cardboard equal to two lengths of one part. Bend the corner and

insert into both parts. Stitch the details in the center.

TOP SHELF (red yarn):

• Dial 6 CH *

1 row: from the second loop from the hook: 2 dc in one loop, 3 dc, 2 dc in one loop, 3 dc (10)

2-38 rows: behind the back wall of the loop: dc in each loop (10)

Finish knitting. Insert the cardboard base. Pull the hole. Fasten the thread and crop.

SIDE WALLS (x2, red yarn):

• Dial 6 CH *

1 row: from the second loop from the hook: 2 dc in one loop, 3 dc, 2 dc in one loop, 3 dc (10)

2-38 rows: behind the back wall of the loop: dc in each loop (10)

Finish knitting. Insert the cardboard base. Pull the hole. Fasten the thread and crop.

Glue side walls, top shelf and roof.

LOWER SHELF (red yarn):

• Dial 12 CH *

1 row: from the third loop from the hook: 2 dc in one loop, 9 dc, 2 dc in one loop, 9 dc (22)

2-51 rows: behind the back wall of the loop: dc in each loop (22)

Finish knitting. Insert the cardboard base. Pull the hole. Fasten the thread and crop.

Glue the bottom shelf.

“GAZONCHIK” (light green yarn):

• Dial 33 CH *

1 row: from the second loop from the hook: dc to each loop (32)

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Glue the “lawn” over the bottom shelf.

WINDOWS (x2, start with black yarn):

• Dial 6 CH *

1-4 row: from the second loop from the hook: dc to each loop (5)

• Change to white yarn *

Tie a part in a circle dc.

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Embroider vertical and horizontal stripes with white thread.

Glue windows.

CUCKOO

HEAD AND BODY (blue yarn):

1 row: 6 dc into magic ring (6)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x6 (12)

3 row: dc in each loop (12)

4 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

5 row: 2 dc in one loop x6 (12)

6 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x6 (18)

7 row: dc in EACH loop (18)

8 row: (1 dc, 2 dc together) x6 (12)

9 row: dc in EACH loop (12)

• Stuff detail *

10 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. A thread

fasten and trim.

WINGS (x2, blue yarn):

1 row: 3 dc into magic ring (3)

2 row: CH, turn, 2 dc in one loop x3, turn (6)

3 row: (3 CH, sl-st in the same loop from where the chain fits) x3

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew on wings.

ANIMAL (white yarn):

1 row: 6 dc into magic ring (6)

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew on the tummy.

Sew or glue the eyes. Make a key.

Glue the cuckoo on the top shelf.

BIG TREE (1 green, 1 dark green):

• Start with green yarn. 1-18 rows knit only on the back wall of the loop *

1 row: 3 dc into magic ring (3)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x3 (6)

3 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

4 row: (2 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (12)

5-6 rows: dc per EACH loop (12)

7 row: (3 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (15)

8-9 rows: dc per EACH loop (15)

10 row: (4 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (18)

11-12 rows: dc per EACH loop (18)

13 row: (5 dc, 2 dc per EACH loop) x3 (21)

14-15 rows: dc per EACH loop (21)

16 row: (6 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x 3 (24)

17 row: dc in EACH loop (24)

18 row: (2 dc together, 2 dc) x6 (18)

19 row: (2 dc together, 1 dc) x6 (12)

• Start typing. Change to brown yarn *

20 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

21-22 rows: dc per EACH loop (6)

23 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

24 row: dc in each loop (9)

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. Fasten and cut the thread.

Attach a new thread for the front walls of the 17th row loops:

1 row: (4 CH, sl-st) in one loop, sl-st, [(sl-st, 4 CH, sl-st) in one loop, sl-st] to the end of the row.

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Sew or glue Christmas trees.

SMALL FIR-TREE (start with dark green yarn):

Just like a big Christmas tree, but skip rows 5, 7, 8, 13 and 14.

Sew or glue the tree.

DEER

HEAD (start with white yarn):

1 row: 3 dc into magic ring (3)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x3 (6)

• Change to beige yarn *

3 row: dc in EACH loop (6)

4 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

5 row: (2 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (12)

6 row: dc in each loop (12)

7 row: (3 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (15)

8 row: dc in each loop (15)

9 row: (2 dc together, 3 dc) x3 (12)

10 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. A thread

fasten and trim.

Sew or glue the eyes. Embroider the nose.

BODY (beige yarn):

1 row: 3 dc into magic ring (6)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x 3 (6)

3 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

4-5 rows: dc per EACH loop (9)

6 row: (2 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (12)

7 row: (3 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (15)

8 row: (4 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (18)

9-11 rows: dc per EACH loop (18)

12 row: (2 dc together, 1 dc) x6 (12)

• Stuff detail *

13 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. Fasten and cut the thread.

Embroider white spots on the back.

NECK (beige yarn):

1 row: 6 dc into magic ring (6)

2 row: behind the back wall of the loop: dc in each loop (6)

3 row: sl-st in EACH loop (6)

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew head, neck and torso. Fill the neck with filler.

FRONT FEET (x2, beige yarn):

1 row: 5 dc into magic ring (5)

2-6 rows: dc per EACH loop (5)

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

HINDER FEET (x2, beige yarn):

1 row: 5 dc into magic ring (5)

2-5 rows: dc per EACH loop (5)

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew legs to the body.

Glue the deer.

Amanita (x2, start with red yarn):

1 row: 6 dc into magic ring (6)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x6 (12)

3 row: (3 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (15)

4-5 rows: dc per EACH loop (15)

• Change to white yarn *

6 row: behind the back wall of the loop: (2 dc together, 3 dc) x3 (12)

7 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

8-9 rows: dc per EACH loop (6)

10 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

11 row: dc in EACH loop (9)

Stuff detail.

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. Fasten and cut the thread.

Embroider white spots on the hat.

Sew or glue fly agaric.

“CHAINS” (x2, green yarn):

Leave the long end of the thread at the beginning. Dial a chain of 70 CH for one “chain”, from

20 CH for the second “chain”.

Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

STRAWBERRY (x3)

BERRY (red yarn):

1 row: 3 dc into magic ring (3)

2 row: 2 dc in one loop x3 (6)

3 row: (1 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (9)

4 row: (2 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (12)

5 row: (3 dc, 2 dc in one loop) x3 (15)

6-9 rows: dc per EACH loop (15)

10 row: (2 dc together, 3 dc) x3 (12)

• Stuff detail *

11 row: 2 dc together x6 (6)

Finish knitting. Pull the hole. A thread

fasten and trim.

Embroider “grains.”

SHEETS (light green yarn):

1 row: 6 dc into magic ring (6)

2 row: (sl-st, 4 CH, sl-st in the second loop from

hook, 2 dc) to the end of the row

Finish knitting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing.

Sew leaves to the berry.

Sew one strawberry to the short “chain”, the other two at different ends of the long

“Chains”.

Sew or stick chains to the watch.

FLOWERS (x4, start with yellow yarn):

1 row: 5 dc into magic ring (5)

• Change to white yarn *

2 row: (sl-st, 4 CH, sl-st) to the end of the row

Finish knitting. Fasten and cut the thread.

Glue flowers to the clock.

The post Wall Clock Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Size: 23 cm, but may be different depending on the chosen yarn and knitting density.

MATERİALS

Pekhorka “Baby Cotton” yarn yellow;

Kamtex yarn “Mercerized Cotton” white;

Kamtex yarn “Mercerized Cotton” gray;

Kamtex yarn “Mercerized Cotton” black;

Kamtex yarn “Mercerized Cotton” blue;

hook number 1.5.

Important: depending on the thickness of the yarn and the density of knitting, the size of the toy may differ from the original!

PATTERN

Body:

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with yellow yarn and close it in a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1) Magic ring = 6sc

2) 6inc = 12sc

3) 1sc, 1inc = 18sc

4) 2sc, 1inc = 24sc

5) 3sc, 1inc = 30sc

6) 4sc, 1inc = 36sc

7) 5sc, 1inc = 42sc

8) 6sc, 1inc = 48sc

9) 7sc, 1inc = 54sc

10) 8sc, 1inc = 60sc

11) 9sc, 1inc = 66sc

12) 10sc, 1inc = 72sc

Making hair:

Cut off 10 cm of black yarn and make a big knot at one end. We extend the second end to the front of our (so far) circle. We stretch the desired number of hairs and knit further. It is not necessary to fix them in any way, the nodules pressed by a synthetic winterizer will hold their hair themselves.

13th – 57th 72sc

58th row: we begin to reduce (10SC, dec) (66 columns).

59th row: (9SC, dec) (60 columns).

60th row: (8SC, dec) (54 columns).

61st row: (7SC, dec) (48 columns).

62nd row: (6SC, dec) (42 columns).

63rd row: (5SC, dec) (36 columns).

Evenly fill the body with a synthetic winterizer.

64th row: (4SC, dec) (30 columns).

65th row: (3SC, dec) (24 columns).

66th row: (2SC, dec) (18 columns).

67th row: (1SC, dec) (12 columns).

68th row: (every 2 columns we knit together) (6 columns).

69th row: (every 2 columns we knit together) (3 columns).

70th row: we knit all 3 columns together, 1 air loop, cut the thread and hide it inside the toy.

Eyes with glasses (2 pcs.):

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with white yarn and close it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1st row: twisting the hook into the center of the formed circle, we knit 6 SC (SC). We close the connecting column, which we knit in the first loop of the row.

2nd row: we knit 2 SC in each column of the last row (12 columns).

3rd row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 1 loop (1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, inc) (18 columns).

4th row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 2 loops (1SC, 1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (24 columns).

5th row: (1SC, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (30 columns).

6th row: (1SC, 1SC, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (36 columns).

Cut the thread, set aside.

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with black yarn and close it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1st row: twisting the hook into the center of the formed circle, we knit 6 SC (SC). We close the connecting column, which we knit in the first loop of the row.

2nd row: we knit 2 SC in each column of the last row (12 columns).

3rd row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 1 loop (1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, inc) (18 columns).

4th row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 2 loops (1SC, 1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (24 columns).

Sew the resulting pupil in the center of the white circle.

We knit a chain of 37 air loops with gray yarn, and closes it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit SC without adding 4 rows. Cut the thread.

We connect one edge of the resulting gray ring with half-columns to the edge of the white circle.

We sew eyes to each other.

We knit a chain of 9 air loops with black yarn.

1st row: in the second loop from the hook, we knit 1SC and then knit 1 SC in each loop (7 columns).

2nd row: 2 loops for lifting, 7 SC in each loop of the previous row.

We knit the third row and the next in the same way.

Trying on the resulting tape from glasses to the minion, we knit to the desired size. Tie 1 cm to the ends of the tape. We tie the entire resulting tape with semi-columns so that the edges are even and neat. We select the front side and sew the wrong side to the Mignon. Sew on the ends of the tape from above.

Black yarn “draw” the mouth.

Leg (2 pcs.):

We begin to knit a leg with an oval. The oval consists of two semicircles and a rectangle between them.

Each semicircle should have its own center – the air loop of the chain, each semicircle consists of 3 wedges.

We knit a chain of 15 air loops with black yarn.

1st row: in the second loop from the hook we knit 2SC (part of the first semicircle). In each subsequent loop of the chain, except the last, we knit 1SC (straight section). In the last loop we knit 3SC (second semicircle). We knit on the other side of the chain with 1SC in each loop, except for the last (second straight section). We knit 1SC in the last loop (part of the first semicircle). We connect.

The connection of the rows can be performed at the border of a straight section with a semicircle.

2nd row: in each column in semicircles we knit 2SC, in each column in straight sections we knit 1SC.

3rd – 8th rows: in each last column of each wedge we knit 2SC, in the remaining columns we knit 1 SC.

In each wedge of a semicircle, the number of columns is equal to the number of the row.

9th – 14th rows: in each column we knit 1SC, without additions.

Divide the leg in half into 2 parts: 1 part – the toe, the second – the heel. In order not to lose the middle, you can stretch a white thread across your legs.

15th – 16th rows: we knit the side with the heel in single crochet columns. We knit the side with the toe with double crochet (DC), knitting 2 loops together every 3 DC (1DC, 1DC, 1DC, 2 loops together, etc.).

17th row: we knit the side with the heel SC without decreases. We knit the side with the toe DC, knitting 2 loops together through 1 DC (1DC, 2 loops together, 1DC, dec).

18th – 20th rows: we knit the side with the heel SC without reduction. We knit the side with the toe DC, knitting 2 loops together every 3DC (1DC, 1DC, 1DC, dec).

21st – 23rd rows: we knit SC in each column of the previous row.

In the middle of the heel, change the black yarn to yellow and knit 7 rows of SC. Cut the thread, fix it so that it does not blossom. Fill with padding polyester. Sew legs to the body.

Hand (2 pcs.):

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with black yarn and close it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1st row: twisting the hook into the center of the formed circle, we knit 6 SC (SC). We close the connecting column, which we knit in the first loop of the row.

2nd row: we knit 2 SC in each column of the last row (12 columns) ..

3rd row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 1 loop (1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, inc) (18 columns).

4th row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 2 loops (1SC, 1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (24 columns).

5th row: (1SC, 1SC, 1SC, inc) (30 columns).

6th – 19th rows: we knit 1SC in each column of the previous row.

Change the black yarn to yellow.

20th – 28th rows: we knit 1SC in each column of the previous row.

Fill the hand with a padding polyester.

We begin to reduce:

29th row: (3SC, dec) (24 columns).

30th row: (2SC, dec) (18 columns).

31st row: (1SC, dec) (12 columns).

32nd row: (every 2 columns we knit together) (6 columns).

33rd row: (every 2 columns we knit together) (3 columns).

34th row: we knit all 3 columns together, 1 air loop, cut the thread and hide it inside the hand.

Finger (2 pcs.):

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with black yarn and close it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1st row: twisting the hook into the center of the formed circle, we knit 6 SC (SC). We close the connecting column, which we knit in the first loop of the row.

2nd row: we knit 2 SC in each column of the last row (12 columns).

3rd row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 1 loop (1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, inc) (18 columns).

4th – 5th rows: we knit 1SC in each column of the previous row, without additions.

Cut the thread, fix it and hide it inside.

Fill your finger with a padding polyester. Sew to the hands next to the place where there was a transition from black yarn to yellow. Sew hands with the side of the finger to the body.

Overalls:

Knit overalls from the middle to the bottom.

With blue yarn we collect a chain of the required number of air loops (the density of knitting is different for everyone, so we measure the width of the overalls according to the Mignon), we close it into a ring with a connecting column.

1st-12th rows: we knit 1SC in each loop of the chain and the previous row.

We divide the resulting pipe into 2 parts and knit 5 rows of SC on each part. It turned out trousers with trousers. Cut and fasten the thread.

Next we will knit from the belt (former air chain).

We dress the pants on the Minion, measure and count how many loops to knit in the front and back (the width of the upper part of the overalls).

1st row: we knit 1DC in each loop of trousers. We knit the number of columns necessary for the width, unfold, pick up 2 air loops and knit the next row.

2nd and next rows: we knit similarly to the first double crochet.

We knit the desired height of the front, and then the back, periodically measuring trousers for the Minion.

When the height is at the level of the upper part of the sewn arm, we knit the DC row in front, then, without tearing, we knit a chain of air loops and connect it to the back, we knit the back, we knit a chain of air loops, we connect it to the front row. We knit 2 more rows with double crochets. Cut, fasten and hide the thread.

We tie the upper part of the overalls with half-columns along the edges at the place of threading the hands.

Side pocket (2 pcs.):

We knit a chain of 13 air loops with blue yarn.

1st row: in the second loop from the hook, we knit 1SC and then knit 1 SC into each loop (11 columns).

2nd row: 2 loops for lifting, 11 SC in each loop of the previous row.

3rd – 10th rows: we knit in the same way.

We tie a pocket around the edges with half columns. With black yarn we “draw” a seam around the edges of the pocket.

Sew on the sides of the legs.

Upper Pocket:

We knit a chain of 10 air loops with blue yarn.

1st row: in the second loop from the hook, we knit 1SC and then knit 1 SC into each loop (8 columns).

2nd row: 2 loops for lifting, 8 SC in each loop of the previous row.

3rd – 10th rows: we knit in the same way.

We tie a pocket around the edges with half columns. With black yarn we “draw” a seam around the edges of the pocket.

We knit a chain of 3 air loops with black yarn and close it into a ring with a connecting column. Next, we knit in circular rows:

1st row: twisting the hook into the center of the formed circle, we knit 6 SC (SC). We close the connecting column, which we knit in the first loop of the row.

2nd row: we knit 2 SC in each column of the last row (12 columns).

3rd row: we knit 2SC in one loop through 1 loop (1SC, 2SC in one loop, 1SC, inc) (18 columns).

On the resulting circle, embroider the letter “G”.

Sew a circle to your pocket.

Sew a pocket to the top of the jumpsuit in front.

Dress up the jumpsuit. We admire the Mignon and praise ourselves!

All creative success and smooth loops!

When reprinting material, mention of my name as the author of the master class and a link to this page are required.

The post Minion Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials

2 green

1 brown

Less yellow

Little pink

Little gray

14mm eye

ABBREVATİONS

ch – Chain

sc – single crochet

inc – increase

dec – decrease

PATTERN

Arm (2pcs)

2 Ch check first ilmege

1) 5sc

2) 5 inc (10SC)

3-5) 3 rows 10sc

6) Popcorn, 9sc

7-26) 20 Row 20 SC

finish it.

Foot

Draw 2 chains and make 6sc inside the first chain.

3 row 6sc

Make 2 fingers and join them.

Will total 12 sc

Knit 2 rows of 12SC.

4sc 1ch check return.

Do 6sc

Do 2sc in 6sc.

DEC, 2SC, dec Here it sinks sideways to 15SC.

Knit 20 rows of 15sc.

Body

Combine two legs with 3ch total 36sc

36sc

(5sc, inc) * 6 (42sc)

(6sc, inc) * 6 (48sc)

Do 10 rows 48sc

(6sc, dec) * 6 (42sc)

2 rows 42sc

(5sc, dec) * 6 (36sc)

6 rows 36sc

(4sc, dec) * 6 (30sc)

7sc, 3sc (with arm), 13sc, 3sc (with arm), 4sc (38sc)

6sc, (dec, 5sc, dec), 11sc, (dec, 5sc, dec), 3sc (34sc)

6sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc (30sc)

3sc, dec) * 6 (24sc)

2sc, dec) * 6 (18sc) over.

Ten Shells

13ch check back return 12SC make 1ch check back

INC, 11sc 1ch check back

INC, 12SC 1ch check back

INC, 13SC 1ch check back

INC, 14SC 1ch check back

INC, 15SC 1ch check back

INC, 16SC 1ch check back

INC, 17SC 1ch check back

INC, 18SC 1ch check back

7 rows of straight knit 20sc

Skip the first loop, return 19SC

Skip the first loop, return 18SC

Skip the first loop, return 17SC

Skip the first loop, return 16SC

Skip the first loop, return 15SC

Skip the first loop, return 14SC

Skip the first loop, return 13SC

Skip the first loop, 12SC come back and finish.

On the arms and legs – bandage ka to the thickness of the leg

pull the chain and make Isira frequent needle and steep.

The bandage on the arms and legs pull a chain according to the thickness of the leg and sew 1 row.

Head

Pull 2 ​​Ch, make 6SC to the first loop

6INC

18sc

24SC

30SC

36SC

42SC

48sc

6 rows 48SC

(7sc, dec) * 6 (54)

54х

13sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 6sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 13sc (60sc)

5 rows (60sc)

13sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 13sc (54sc)

2 rows 54sc

(7sc, dec) * 6 (48sc)

48sc

3sc, dec, (6sc, dec) * 5,3sc (42sc)

(5sc, dec) * 6 (36sc)

2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) * 5,2sc (30sc)

(3sc, dec) * 6 (24sc)

sc, dec, (2sc, dec) * 5, sc (18sc) finished.

Ridge shell

13ch check back turn 12sc make 1ch check back

INC, 11sc 1ch check back

INC, 12sc, 1ch check back

INC, 13sc, 1ch check back

INC, 14sc, 1ch check back

INC, 15sc, 1ch check back

INC, 16sc, 1ch check back

INC, 17sc, 1ch check back

INC, 18sc, 1ch check back

10 rows of straight knit 20sc

skip the first loop, return 19sc

Skip the first loop, back 18sc

Skip the first loop, return 17sc

Skip the first loop, 16sc back

Skip the first loop, back 15sc

Skip the first loop, back 14sc

Skip the first loop, return 13SC

Skip the first loop, return 12sc

After knitting the two pieces, make 74 sc by wrapping around it and knit the second piece in 44 rows 74sc and join the two pieces.

Eye patch

Measure the head and calculate the connecting place as you can see in the picture and draw a chain.

I cannot say the number because everyone’s hand structure may differ as they are different.

Make a row of sc after pulling the chain.

Then do sc until you reach eye level. Jump 7SC and bat 3sc to 8th loop.

Gray bandage on the shell

chain the torso like in the picture and make a row of sc.

The post Ninja Turtles Velvet Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

It took me a whole bobbin of yarn ~ 130m, plus 1/2 skein of yarn of a different color and a little metallic for shine

Used hook 6

The basis of the Christmas Tree is a cardboard cone (everything is simple, twisted from a sheet of paper and glued together) * it is not stable without support

Knitting process:

The basis of the Christmas tree is a knitted cone

• knitted in a spiral, without connecting rows, marking the beginning of each row with a marker

1) knit 6 SC in a ring

2)6 SC

3) in each column of the previous row we knit 2 SC – a total of 12 SC

4) we knit without changes

5) we knit without changes

6) 1 SC, increase (2 SC in one loop), continue to the end of the row – a total of 18 SC

7) no change

8)2 SC, increase, continue to the end of the row – a total of 24 SC

9) no change

10) 3 SC, increase, continue to the end of the row – a total of 30 SC

11) no change

12) no change

13) 4 SC, continue to the end of the row – a total of 36 SC

14) no change

15) no change

16) 5 SC, continue to the end of the row – a total of 42 SC

• We knit in this way to the desired height, at the end we do not cut the thread, but proceed to the next step

STRIPING THE EDGE OF A Christmas tree

1) dial 6 CH

2) in the 2nd loop from the hook, knit 1 SC, then in the following loops – 2 HDC and 2DC

3) then knit 2 connecting posts and dial 6 CH again

4) repeat this knitting of branches to the end of the row

Christmas tree branches

1) Dial 6 CH

2) In the 2nd loop from the hook, knit 1SC, then in the subsequent loops – 2 HDC and 2 DC

3) So knit the braid of the required length

• Be sure to strip the braid so that the branches become even

SEWING STAGE

The most difficult and time-consuming stage

1) You can sew the braid to the knitted cone of the Christmas tree both from the crown and from the bottom, as convenient (I started from the crown)

2) For sewing used a thick needle and knit yarn of the same color

After we sewed all the braid from the twigs, we make a cardboard cone and put a Christmas tree on it

BOTTOM

• It is necessary to knit a round bottom stand of the desired diameter and sew

THE FINAL STAGE

At this stage, BEAUTY, the Christmas tree is fluffy, is confident

It remains to show imagination and decorate it

• on my Christmas tree wooden toy pendants painted with pearl paint and beads glued to a glue gun

The post Christmas Tree Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.