For personal use only! 

1: When publishing your work, indicate the author. 

2: Use only your own photographs for display. It is prohibited to use the author’s work for advertising. 

3: Purchased master class is for personal use only. Reselling or partially/fully publishing is prohibited. 

The finished toy size when using the same materials is approximately 25-27 cm. 

Abbreviations: 

SC – single crochet; 

CH – chain stitch; 

INC – increase; 

DEC – decrease; 

HDC – half double crochet; 

INC – increase; 

SS – slip stitch. 

Materials: 

1: Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn for the bear: 1 skein of 306, 1 skein of 317, and a little of 301. Himalaya Dolphin Baby plush yarn for the bunny: slightly more than one skein of 308, YarnArt Dolce 759 – 1 skein. 

2: Yarn for sewing and detailing – YarnArt Jeans in the color of the toy and black and white yarn for facial details. 

3: Crochet hook size 5mm. If crocheting loosely, use hook size 4-4.5mm, and hook size 5-6mm for the hat. 

4: Stuffing. 

5: Safety eyes 10-12mm. 

6: Safety nose 12x15mm. 

7: Needle for sewing and detailing. 

PATTERN

Bear Slippers: 

Crochet slippers with white yarn. 

1: 5 CH, in the 2nd CH from the hook 3 SC, 4 SC in the last CH, turn, 2 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH (12) 

2: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

3: (INC, 2 SC)*6 (24) 

4-5: 24 SC 

6: 6 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 8 SC (21) 

7: 4 SC, (DEC, 1 SC)*3, DEC, 6 SC (17) 

Change yarn color to match the body on the last stitch. 

8: Work 3 SC in the back loop, 4 DEC, 6 SC (13) 

Work 13 slip stitches in the front loop or attach ears in slipper color separately. 

9: 11 SC, DEC (12) 

10: 12 SC 

Change yarn to pajama color. 

11: 12 SC 

12: Work 12 SC in the back loops, work 12 slip stitches in the front loops. 

13-15: 12 SC 

Fold in half and crochet 6 SC across both sides. 

Bear/Bunny Sleeves or Dress Sleeves: 

Use body color yarn. 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4-5: 18 SC 

6: (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

7: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (9) 

8: 9 SC 

Change yarn to pajama color. 

9: 9 SC 

10: Work 9 SC in the back loops. 

11-13: 9 SC 

Fold in half and crochet 5 SC across both sides. 

Body-Head for Bear/Bunny in Pajamas: 

Pajama color: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24) 

5: (3 SC, INC)*6 (30) 

6: (4 SC, INC)*6 (36) 

7: (5 SC, INC)*6 (42) 

8: Work the lower legs (6 SC, INC)*6 (48) 

In other words, at the beginning of the row, work 6 SC with a leg, then INC without a leg, 6 SC, INC, 4 SC, 2 SC with a leg, INC with a leg, 3 SC with a leg, 3 SC without a leg, INC, 6 SC, INC, 6 SC, INC. 

9-12: 48 SC (4 rows) 

13: 7 SC, 6 DEC, 29 SC (decreases should be on the belly, if not, crochet more or fewer SC at the beginning of the row) 

14: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36) 

15: (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30) 

16-18: 30 SC (3 rows) 

19: Work the upper legs (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24) 

In other words, at the beginning of the row, work 3 SC with a leg, DEC with a leg (insert the hook into the leg, DEC only on the body), 1 SC with a leg, 2 SC on the body, DEC, 2 SC on the body (DEC in the middle of the torso), 1 SC with a leg, DEC, 3 SC with a leg, DEC already on the body, continue until the end with 3 SC, DEC. 

20: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18) 

On the last stitch, change dress color to body color, continue head. 

18 SC 

21: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24) 

22: (3 SC, INC)*6 (30) 

23: (4 SC, INC)*6 (36) 

24: (5 SC, INC)*6 (42) 

25: (6 SC, INC)*6 (48) 

26: (7 SC, INC)*6 (54) 

28-30: 54 SC (3 rows) 

Insert eyes between rows 28 and 29 at a distance of 4 SC. 

31: (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48) 

32: (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42) 

33: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36) 

34: (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30) 

35: (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24) 

36: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18) 

37: (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

38: 6 DEC. 

Bear Ears: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4: 18 SC 

Fold in half, crochet 9 SC across both sides. 

Bear Tail: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3-4: 12 SC 

5: 6 DEC + SS. Leave a long tail for sewing. 

Bear Face: 

Use white yarn. 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

If you want a fuller face, crochet a row of 18 SC + SS. Leave a long tail for sewing. 

Insert nose and sew on the face. 

Bear/Bunny Pajama Hat: 

1: 54 CH, join in a circle, and continue crocheting in a spiral. 

2: 54 HDC (or HDC if you started with HDC, then crochet all rows like that.) 

3: (7 HDC, DEC from HDC)*6 (48) 

4: 48 HDC 

5: (6 HDC, DEC)*6 (42) 

6: 42 HDC 

7: (5 HDC, DEC)*6 (36) 

8-9: 36 HDC 

10: (4 HDC, DEC)*6 (30) 

11-12: 30 HDC 

13: (3 HDC, DEC)*6 (24) 

14-16: 24 HDC 

17: (2 HDC, DEC)*6 (18) 

18-21: 18 HDC 

22: (1 HDC, DEC)*6 (12) 

23-27: 12 HDC 

28: 6 DEC from HDC (6) 

29: 6 HDC, SC + SS. 

If you want the hat shorter, crochet HDC instead of HDC! 

Pompon for the Hat: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4: 18 SC 

5: (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

6: 6 DEC + SS. Leave a long tail for sewing, sew to the hat in row 29. Stuff the pompon. 

Collar: 

31 CH, in the third from the hook SS, then 12 SS, SS, 2 CH and SS in the same loop, SS in the next loop, 2 CH and SS in the same loop, 12 SS, SS, 2 CH and SS in the same loop. 

Ears for Slippers: 

If you want slippers with bunny ears, skip the 13th row and sew the ears there. Crochet 4 ears in slipper color. 

1: 5 CH 

2: In the 2nd CH from the hook, 3 SC, 4 SC in the last CH, turn, 2 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH (12) 

Leave long tails for sewing. 

Drawstring for Bear: 

Insert the needle into point “A”, then into “B”, then into “C”. From point “C”, insert the needle directly into “G”, then into “D”, and again into point “A”. Repeat 2-3 times. 

Ears for Bunny: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: 12 INC (24) 

4-6: 24 SC 

7: (6 SC, DEC)*3 (21) 

8: 21 SC 

9: (5 SC, DEC)*3 (18) 

10: 18 SC 

11: (4 SC, DEC)*3 (15) 

12: (3 SC, DEC)*3 (12) 

13-17: 12 SC 

18: 6 DEC SC, 1 SC. 

Crochet 3 SC behind both sides of the ear. 

You can crochet the ears using a single crochet stitch (SC) or slip stitch (SS). It will change the size and pattern of the ears. 

Tail for Bunny: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4: 18 SC 

5: (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

6: 6 DEC + SS. Leave a long tail for sewing. 

Legs for Bear/Bunny in Dress: 

Crochet slippers with white yarn or yarn matching the dress color. If you want to make the toy without slippers, simply don’t change the yarn and crochet as usual (no need for a slip stitch). 

1: 5 CH, in the 2nd CH from the hook 3 SC, 4 SC in the last CH, turn, 2 SC, 3 SC in 1 CH (12) 

2: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

3: (INC, 2 SC)*6 (24) 

4-5: 24 SC 

6: 6 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 2 SC, DEC, 8 SC (21) 

7: 4 SC, (DEC, 1 SC)*3, DEC, 6 SC (17) Change yarn 

8: Work 3 SC behind the back loop, 4 DEC, 6 SC (13) Work 13 SC in the front loop or attach ears. 

9: 11 SC, DEC (12) 

10-15: 12 SC 

Fold in half and crochet 6 SC through both sides. 

Arms for Bear/Bunny in Dress: 

Use body color yarn. 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4-5: 18 SC 

6: (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

7: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (9) 

8-13: 9 SC 

Fold in half and crochet 5 SC through both sides. 

Body-Head for Bear/Bunny in Dress: 

Body color: 

1: 6 SC in magic ring. 

2: 6 INC (12) 

3: (1 SC, INC)*6 (18) 

4: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24) 

5: (3 SC, INC)*6 (30) 

6: (4 SC, INC)*6 (36) 

7: (5 SC, INC)*6 (42) 

8: Work the lower legs (6 SC, INC)*6 (48) 

9: 48 SC. Change yarn color on the last stitch to match the dress color. 

10-12: 48 SC 

13: 7 SC, 6 DEC, 29 SC (decreases should be on the belly, if not, crochet more or fewer SC at the beginning of the row) 

14: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36) 

15: (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30) 

16-18: 30 SC (3 rows) 

19: Work the upper legs (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24) 

20: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18) 

Change yarn color to match the body color on the last stitch, continue head. 

21: (2 SC, INC)*6 (24) 

22: (3 SC, INC)*6 (30) 

23: (4 SC, INC)*6 (36) 

24: (5 SC, INC)*6 (42) 

25: (6 SC, INC)*6 (48) 

26: (7 SC, INC)*6 (54) 

28-30: 54 SC (3 rows) 

Insert eyes between rows 28 and 29 at a distance of 4 SC. Insert the nose between rows 26 and 27. 

31: (7 SC, DEC)*6 (48) 

32: (6 SC, DEC)*6 (42) 

33: (5 SC, DEC)*6 (36) 

34: (4 SC, DEC)*6 (30) 

35: (3 SC, DEC)*6 (24) 

36: (2 SC, DEC)*6 (18) 

37: Crochet ears (1 SC, DEC)*6 (12) 

38: 6 DEC. 

Skirt: 

1: For the front loop of row 11, crochet 48 SC from SS (96) 

2: 1 SS, INC to the end of the row. Finish crocheting, cut the thread, and hide it. 

Bow: 

8 CH 

6 SC on one side, INC. On the other side, 6 SC, INC + SS. Wrap the bow with yarn of the same color. Sew it to the ear. 

Drawstring for Bunny: 

In the middle, between rows 23 and 24, insert the needle, this is point A, and bring it out at point B, then to point C. Insert again at point C, then to D, and bring it out again at point A. Repeat this 3-4 times. 

Happy crocheting and even stitches! 

The post Cozy Sleepy Teddy Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern: Crochet Comfort for Bedtime Bliss! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials and Tools:

Yarn: “Pekhorka” “Children’s Volume” (400 m / 100 g). 

Hook: 2 mm. 

Embroidery Yarn: 

Eyelashes, nose – black (“Children’s Novelty”), 

Whites of the eyes – white (“Jeans”), 

Eyebrows – cappuccino (“Children’s Novelty”), 

Blush – peach (“Softy”). 

Eyes: 9-10 mm. 

Accessory: Decorative button. 

PATTERN

Head: 

1: MR, 2 ch, 8 SC. 

2: 8 INC = 16 SC. 

3: (1 SC, INC) * 8 = 24 SC. 

4: (3 SC, INC) * 6 = 30 SC. 

5: (4 SC, INC) * 6 = 36 SC. 

6: (5 SC, INC) * 6 = 42 SC. 

7: (6 SC, INC) * 6 = 48 SC. 

8: (7 SC, INC) * 6 = 54 SC. 

9: 54 SC. 

10: (8 SC, INC) * 6 = 60 SC. 

11: 60 SC. 

12: (9 SC, INC) * 6 = 66 SC. 

13-14: 66 SC. (2 rows) 

15: (10 SC, INC) * 6 = 72 SC. 

16-17: 72 SC. (2 rows) 

18: (11 SC, INC) * 6 = 78 SC. 

19-22: 78 SC. (4 rows) 

Insert eyes between stitches 19 and 20, at a distance of 10 stitches (8 visible stitches). 

23: (11 SC, DEC) * 6 = 72 SC. 

24: (10 SC, DEC) * 6 = 66 SC. 

25: (9 SC, DEC) * 6 = 60 SC. 

26: (8 SC, DEC) * 6 = 54 SC. 

27: (7 SC, DEC) * 6 = 48 SC. 

28: (6 SC, DEC) * 6 = 42 SC. 

29: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 = 36 SC. 

30: (4 SC, DEC) * 6 = 30 SC. 

31: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 = 24 SC. 

Cut the yarn. 

Arm (2 pieces): 

1: MR, 2 ch, 6 SC. 

2: 6 INC = 12 SC. 

3-12: 12 SC. (10 rows) 

13: (2 SC, DEC) * 3 = 9 SC. 

Fold, crochet together. 

Leg (2 pieces): 

1: MR, 2 ch, 8 SC. 

2: 8 INC = 16 SC. 

3: Crochet 16 SC in the back loops. 

4-6: 16 SC. (3 rows) 

7: (3 SC, INC) * 4 = 20 SC. 

Cut the yarn from one leg, do not cut it from the other one. 

Join the legs together and continue crocheting in the round: 

8: 20 SC around one leg, 1 SC at the joining point, 20 SC around the other leg, 1 SC at the joining point = 42 SC. 

9: (6 SC, INC) * 6 = 48 SC. 

10-13: 48 SC. (4 rows) 

14: (6 SC, DEC) * 6 = 42 SC. 

15-20: 42 SC. (6 rows) 

21: (5 SC, DEC) * 6 = 36 SC. 

22: (4 SC, DEC) * 6 = 30 SC. 

23: (3 SC, DEC) * 6 = 24 SC. 

Cut the yarn. 

Ear (2 pieces): 

1: MR, 2 ch, 6 SC. 

2: 6 INC = 12 SC. 

3: (1 SC, INC) * 6 = 18 SC. 

4-6: 18 SC. (3 rows) 

Leave a tail for sewing. Sew starting from row 15, moving towards the center, i.e., upwards. 

Tail: 

1: MR, 2 ch, 6 SC. 

2: 6 INC = 12 SC. 

3: 12 SC. 

Leave a tail for sewing. 

Nose: 

1: MR, 2 ch, 8 SC. 

2: 8 INC = 16 SC. 

3: (1 SC, INC) * 8 = 24 SC. 

4-5: 24 SC. (2 rows) 

Leave a tail for sewing. 

Sew on the details, create cheek indentations and nose, embroider eyelashes, whites of the eyes, eyebrows, nose, and blush. Attach decorations. Enjoy! 

The post Teddy Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern: Craft Your Own Cuddly Companion! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

The finished amigurumi bear is about 22 cm 

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain 

sl st = slip stitch 

sc = single crochet 

inc = 2 sc in the next stitch 

dec = single crochet 2 stitches together 

Materials: 

Yarn: YarnArt Jeans or Alize Cotton Gold Hobby 

Hook size: 2.0 mm 

Safety eyes 

Black embroidery floss or yarn for nose 

Fiberfill 

PATTERN  

Muzzle-head-body 

Muzzle, head and body of the lying bear are crocheted as one part. 

With beige yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 

Row2: (inc) x6 (12) 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24) 

Row5: 24 sc 

Row6: (3 sc, inc) x6 (30) 

Row7: 30 sc 

Row8: (4 sc, inc) x6 (36) 

Row9-11: 36 sc (3 rows) 

Change to brown yarn: 

Row12: 12 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x3, (1 sc, inc) x3, 12 sc (42) 

Row13: 12 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x3, (2 sc, inc) x3, 12 sc (48) 

Row14: (7 sc, inc) x6 (54) 

Row15-16: 54 sc (2 rows) 

Row17: (8 sc, inc) x6 (60) 

Row18-26: 60 sc (9 rows) 

Row27: (9 sc, inc) x6 (66) 

Row28: (10 sc, inc) x6 (72) 

Row29: 72 sc 

Continue crocheting the body in stripes. 

Row30-31: with pink yarn: 72 sc (2 rows) 

Row32: with natural yarn: (11 sc, inc) x6 (78) 

Row33: 78 sc 

Row34-35: with pink yarn: 78 sc (2 rows) 

Row36: with natural yarn: (12 sc, inc) x6 (84) 

Row37: 84 sc 

Row38-39: with pink yarn: 84 sc (2 rows) 

Row40: with natural yarn: (13 sc, inc) x6 (90) 

Row41: 90 sc 

Row42-43: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows) 

Row44-45: with natural yarn: 90 sc (2 rows) 

Row46-47: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows) 

Row48-49: with natural yarn: 90 sc (2 rows) 

Row50-51: with pink yarn: 90 sc (2 rows) 

Change to brown yarn: 

Row52-56: 90 sc (5 rows) 

Row57: (13 sc, dec) x6 (84) 

Row58: 84 sc 

Row59: (12 sc, dec) x6 (78) 

Row60: 78 sc 

Row61: (11 sc, dec) x6 (72) 

Row62: 72 sc 

Row63: (10 sc, dec) x6 (66) 

Row64: (9 sc, dec) x6 (60) 

Row65: (8 sc, dec) x6 (54) 

Row66: (7 sc, dec) x6 (48) 

Row67: (6 sc, dec) x6 (42) 

Row68: (5 sc, dec) x6 (36) 

Row69: (4 sc, dec) x6 (30) 

Row70: (3 sc, dec) x6 (24) 

Row71: (2 sc, dec) x6 (18) 

Row72: (1 sc, dec) x6 (12) 

Row73: (dec) x6 (6) 

F.o. 

Legs (make 2) 

With brown yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 

Row2: (inc) x6 (12) 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 

Row4: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24) 

Row5-9: 24 sc (5 rows) 

Row10: (6 sc, dec) x3 (21) 

Row11: 21 sc 

Row12: (5 sc, dec) x3 (18) 

Row13-14: 18 sc (2 rows) 

Stuff gently with fiberfill. 

Fold top of leg flat and 8 sc through both sides across + 1 sl st. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Sew legs to the body between Row54 and Row55. 

Arms (make 2) 

With brown yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 

Row2: (inc) x6 (12) 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 

Row4: 18 sc 

Row5: (2 sc, inc) x6 (24) 

Row6-9: 24 sc (4 rows) 

Continue crocheting in stripes. 

Row10: with natural yarn: (6 sc, dec) x3 (21) 

Row11: 21 sc 

Row12: with pink yarn: (5 sc, dec) x3 (18) 

Row13: 18 sc 

Row14: with natural yarn: 18 sc 

Stuff gently with fiberfill. 

Fold top of arm flat and 8 sc through both sides across + 1 sl st. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Sew arms to the body between Row32 and Row33. 

Ears (make 2) 

With brown yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 

Row2: (inc) x6 (12) 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 

Row4-5: 18 sc (2 rows) 

Row6: 17 sc, 1 sl st 

Don’t stuff. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Sew ears to the head. 

Tail 

With brown yarn: 

Row1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6) 

Row2: (inc) x6 (12) 

Row3: (1 sc, inc) x6 (18) 

Row4-5: 18 sc (2 rows) 

Row6: 17 sc, 1 sl st 

Stuff with fiberfill. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Sew tail to the body. 

The post Free Amigurumi Crochet Pattern: Chubby Sleepy Bear appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

This crochet project offers not only a creative outlet but also the opportunity to craft a unique handmade gift that will bring smiles and joy. So, grab your crochet hook, choose your favorite yarn colors, and let’s dive into this crafting adventure. Let’s crochet your very own Bow Tie Teddy Bear and create a cuddly companion with a hint of sophistication!

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain 

sc = single crochet 

hdc = half double crochet 

sl st = slip stitch 

inc = 2 sc in the next stitch 

dec = single crochet 2 stitches together 

BLO = back loop only 

F.o. = finish off 

(…)*6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated 

(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row 

Materials: 

YarnArt Jeans yarn: beige (№07), pink (№18), bright pink (№20), white (№03), brown (№40) 

2.00 mm crochet hook 

8 mm half beads 

Buttons for joining arms and legs (4 pcs) 

Fabric glue 

Sewing needle 

Scissors 

Fiberfill 

PATTERN

Head 

With beige yarn: 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: inc*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36) 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 

Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48) 

Row 9: (7 sc, inc)*6 (54) 

Row 10-17: 54 sc (8 rows) 

Row 18: (7 sc, dec)*6 (48) 

Row 19: 3 sc, dec, (6 sc, dec)*5, 3 sc (42) 

Row 20: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 

Row 21: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30) 

Row 22: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

Row 23: 1 sc, dec, (2 sc, dec)*5, 1 sc (18) 

Row 24: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12) 

Stuff with fiberfill. 

Row 25: dec*6 (6) 

F.o. 

Muzzle 

With white yarn: 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: inc*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: 18 sc 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Ears (make 2) 

With white yarn: 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring, 1 turning chain 

Row 2: inc*6 (12) 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Cheeks (make 2) 

With pink yarn: 

Make a magic circle amigurumi. 

1: 2 ch in magic ring, 10 hdc, join in a ring with sl st in 2nd ch. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Body 

With beige yarn: 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: inc*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: 1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc)*5, 1 sc (24) 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

Row 6: 2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (36) 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 

Row 8: 3 sc, inc, (6 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (48) 

Row 9-16: 48 sc (8 rows) 

Row 17: 12 sc, 12 dec, 12 sc (36) 

Row 18-19: 36 sc (2 rows) 

Row 20: 2 sc, dec, (4 sc, dec)*5, 2 sc (30) 

Row 21-22: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Row 23: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

Row 24-25: 24 sc (2 rows) 

Stuff with fiberfill. 

F.o. and leave a long tail for sewing. 

Arms (make 2) 

With beige yarn: 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: inc*6 (12) 

Row 3-4: 12 sc (2 rows) 

Row 5: dec, 10 sc (11) 

Row 6: dec, 9 sc (10) 

Row 7: dec, 8 sc (9) 

Row 8-15: 9 sc (8 rows) 

Stuff with fiberfill. 

Row 16: (1 sc, dec)*3 (6) 

F.o. 

Legs (make 2) 

With pink yarn: 

Make 6 ch. 

Make an oval starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain. 

Row 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn and crochet on the opposite side of the chain: 3 sc, inc (12) 

Row 2: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18) 

Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (24) 

Row 4: 2 sc, inc, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (2 sc, inc)*2 (30) 

Change to beige yarn: 

Row 5: BLO 30 sc 

Row 6-7: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Row 8: 4 sc, dec, (1 sc, dec)*5, 9 sc (24) 

Row 9: 24 sc 

Row 10: 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, 4 dec, 1 sc, dec, 6 sc (18) 

Row 11: (1 sc, dec)*6 (12) 

Stuff with fiberfill. 

Row 12-19: 12 sc (8 rows) 

Row 20: dec*6 (6) 

Stuff leg ¾ full. 

F.o. 

Bow 

With bright pink yarn: 

Make 16 ch. 

Row 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 15 sc, 1 turning chain 

Row 2: BLO, 15 sc, 1 turning chain 

Row 3: BLO, 15 sc, 1 turning chain 

Row 4: BLO, 15 sc, 1 turning chain 

Row 5: BLO, 15 sc 

F.o. 

Wrap the middle of the bow multiple times with brown yarn and sew to the body. 

Assembly 

1. Sew muzzle to the head between Row 13 and Row 29. Put some stuffing inside the muzzle before you finish. 

2. Glue eyes between Row 13 and Row 14 at the distance of 6 stitches from each other. 

3. Embroider eye whites with white yarn, embroider eyelids with beige yarn. Embroider nose and eyebrows with brown yarn. 

4. Sew cheeks on the head between Row 15 and Row 19 of the head at the distance of 4 stitches from muzzle. 

5. Fold the ear edges together and fix them in such position with one stitch. Sew ears to the head on Row 8. 

6. Sew head to the body. Stuff firmly the neck area. A firmly stuffed neck will hold the head up. 

7. Attach arms and legs using buttons. View video tutorial >>> how to attach jointed arms and legs using buttons. 

(Find position on your bears body where the legs/arms will be attached: for legs – between Row 9 and 10 of the body, for arms – between Row 21 and 22 of the body and between Row 14 and 15 of arm). 

Amigurumi bear tutorial8. Embroider a head and a belly with brown yarn. 

The post Craft Your Own Bow Tie Teddy Bear with Our Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

This crochet project offers not only a creative outlet but also the opportunity to craft a unique handmade gift that will be cherished by all. So, grab your crochet hook, choose your preferred yarn, and let’s dive into this crafting adventure. Let’s crochet your very own Amigurumi Teddy Bear and add a touch of warmth to your world!

Abbreviations: 

ch = chain 

st = stitch 

sc = single crochet 

inc = 2 sc in the next stitch 

dec = single crochet 2 stitches together 

F.o. = finish off 

(12) = number of stitches you should have at the end of the round/row 

( )* 6 = repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated 

Materials: 

Yarn Himalaya Dolphin Baby or Yarn Art Dolche 

Hook size: 4.5 mm 

Fiberfill 

Safety eyes 10 mm 

Safety nose 15*12 mm 

Sewing needle 

Fine yarn for embroidering 

Satin ribbon 50 cm 

Size: 35 cm 

PATTERN

Head 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (inc)*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36) 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc)*6 (42) 

Row 8-12: 42 sc (5 rows) 

Row 13: (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 

Row 14: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) 

Row 15: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

Row 16: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) 

Row 17: (4 sc, dec)*6 (15) 

F.o. 

Insert eyes between Row 9 and 10 at the distanse of 4-5 stitches from each other. 

Muzzle 

With white yarn. 

Make 6 ch. 

Make an oval starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain. 

Row 1: From the 2nd ch from hook:  4 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn: 3 sc, inc (opposite site) (12) 

Row 2: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18) 

Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (24) 

Row 4: 24 sc 

F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Insert a nose between Row 3 and 4. 

Body 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (inc)*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc)*6 (24) 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc)*6 (30) 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc)*6 (36) 

Row 7-9: 36 sc (3 rows) 

Row 10: (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) 

Row 11-12: 30 sc (2 rows) 

Row 13: (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

Row 14-15: 24 sc (2 rows) 

Row 16: (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) 

Row 17: 18 sc 

Row 18: (4 sc,  dec)*3 (15) 

F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Tail 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (inc)*6 (12) 

Row 3: 12 sc 

Row 4: (dec)*6 (6) 

F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Ears (make 2) 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (inc)*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4-5: 18 sc (2 rows) 

F.o., leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Arms (make 2) 

Row 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

Row 2: (inc)*6 (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc)*6 (18) 

Row 4: 18 sc 

Row 5: 3 sc, 6 dec, 3 sc (12) 

Row 6-12: 12 sc (7 rows) 

Row 13: (dec)*6 (6) 

F.o. 

Stuff the top of arm very gently. 

Legs (make 2) 

Make 6 ch. 

Make an oval starting from the 2nd ch from hook, work on both sides of the chain. 

Row 1: From the 2nd ch from hook: 4 sc, 3 sc in last st, turn: 3 sc, inc (opposite site) (12) 

Row 2: inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (18) 

Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 (24) 

Row 4-5: 24 sc (2 rows) 

Row 6: 6 sc, 5 dec, 8 sc (19) 

Row 7: 5 sc, 4 dec, 6 sc (15) 

Row 8: 15 sc 

Row 9: (3 sc, dec)*3 (12) 

Row 10-16: 12 sc (7 rows) 

Row 17: (dec)*6 (6) 

F.o. 

Stuff the top of leg very gently. 

The post Craft Your Own Teddy Bear with Our Free Amigurumi Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Amigurumi is a Japanese art of crocheting or knitting small stuffed creatures, and teddy bears are one of the most beloved choices in this craft. Whether you’re an experienced amigurumi enthusiast or a total novice, this free pattern is designed to bring joy and warmth to your heart.

Our “Adorable Amigurumi Teddy Bear Free Pattern” is your ticket to creating a handmade bear that you can cherish or gift to a loved one. With this pattern, you’ll learn the fundamental techniques of amigurumi, including how to start, increase, decrease, and finish off your project.

Get ready to dive into the world of creativity and craftsmanship as we guide you through each step of making your very own amigurumi teddy bear. So, grab your crochet hook, some soft yarn, and let’s get started on this heartwarming journey!

To access the full pattern and step-by-step instructions, simply scroll down and follow along. We hope you enjoy making your amigurumi teddy bear as much as we enjoyed creating this pattern. Let’s craft some cuddly cuteness together!

Materials:

Yarn: Himalaya Dolphin Baby, color 80336 – 2.5 skeins 

Hook: 4.0 mm 

Abbreviations: 

sc – Single Crochet 

inc – Increase (often means to make two single crochet stitches in the same stitch) 

dec – Decrease (usually means to crochet two stitches together to decrease the stitch count) 

ch – Chain 

sl st – Slip Stitch 

st – Stitch 

MR – Magic Ring (also known as a Magic Circle) 

BLO – Back Loops Only 

FLO – Front Loops Only 

rep – Repeat 

hdc – Half Double Crochet 

dc – Double Crochet 

PATTERN

Body: 

Start with 11 chain stitches. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, make 8 sc, 4 sc in the last chain, on the other side make 8 sc, 1 inc (24 sc). 

Row 2: 2 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc (32 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 4, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (40 sc). 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 4, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 2 (48 sc). 

Rows 5-6: 48 sc. 

Row 7: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54 sc). 

Row 8: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60 sc). 

Row 9: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66 sc). 

Rows 10-20: 66 sc. 

Row 21: (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60 sc). 

Rows 22-23: 60 sc. 

Row 24: (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54 sc). 

Rows 25-26: 54 sc. 

Row 27: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48 sc). 

Rows 28-29: 48 sc. 

Row 30: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42 sc). 

Rows 31-32: 42 sc. 

Row 33: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36 sc). 

Rows 34-35: 36 sc. 

Row 36: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30 sc). 

Row 37: 30 sc. 

Head: 

Row 1: 6 sc into a magic ring. 

Row 2: 6 inc (12 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18 sc). 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sc). 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sc). 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sc). 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42 sc). 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6 (48 sc). 

Row 9: (7 sc, inc) x 6 (54 sc). 

Row 10: (8 sc, inc) x 6 (60 sc). 

Row 11: (9 sc, inc) x 6 (66 sc). 

Rows 12-20: 66 sc. 

Row 21: (9 sc, dec) x 6 (60 sc). 

Row 22: (8 sc, dec) x 6 (54 sc). 

Row 23: (7 sc, dec) x 6 (48 sc). 

Row 24: (6 sc, dec) x 6 (42 sc). 

Row 25: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36 sc). 

Row 26: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30 sc). 

Muzzle: 

Start with 4 chain stitches. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, 1 sc, 4 sc in the last chain, 1 sc, 1 inc (10 sc). 

Row 2: 2 inc, 1 sc, 4 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (18 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 4, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (26 sc). 

Rows 4-7: 26 sc. 

Ears: 

Row 1: 4 sc in a magic ring, do not close the ring. 

Row 2: 4 inc (8 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 4 (12 sc). 

Row 4: 12 sc. 

Legs: 

Start with 11 chain stitches. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, 1 inc, 8 sc, 4 sc in the last chain, on the other side make 8 sc, 1 inc (24 sc). 

Row 2: 2 inc, 8 sc, 4 inc, 8 sc, 2 inc (32 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 4, 8 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (40 sc). 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 2, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 4, 8 sc, (2 sc, inc) x 2 (48 sc). 

Rows 5-6: 48 sc. 

Row 7: 48 sc in the back loops. 

Rows 8-10: 48 sc. 

Row 11: 1 dec, 16 sc, 6 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec (40 sc). 

Row 12: 16 sc, 4 dec, 15 sc, 1 dec (35 sc), move the marker to one stitch. 

Row 13: 15 sc, 2 dec, 15 sc, 1 dec (32 sc). 

Row 14: 14 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec (30 sc). 

Rows 15-17: 30 sc. 

Row 18: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24 sc). 

Rows 19-20: 24 sc. 

Row 21: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18 sc). 

Rows 22-25: 18 sc. 

Row 26: Join the edges with 9 sc. 

Arms: 

Start with 4 chain stitches. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, 1 inc, 1 sc, 4 sc in the last chain, 1 sc, 1 inc (10 sc). 

Row 2: 2 inc, 1 sc, 4 inc, 1 sc, 2 inc (18 sc). 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 2, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 4, 1 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2 (26 sc). 

Rows 4-11: 26 sc. 

Row 12: 11 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec (24 sc). 

Row 13: 10 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec (22 sc). 

Row 14: 9 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec (20 sc). 

Row 15: 8 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec (18 sc). 

Rows 16-25: 18 sc. 

Row 26: Join the edges with 9 sc. 

The post Adorable Amigurumi Teddy Bear Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

A delightful free amigurumi pattern for those in search of adorable brown teddy bear amigurumi. This easy-to-follow amigurumi project can make a wonderful gift or a decorative accessory for your loved ones.

Abbreviations: 

Ch – chain 

Sc – single crochet 

Dec – decrease 

Inc increase 

Sl-st – slip stitch 

PATTERN 

Legs: Start with brown 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18) 

4th Row: Rounds 4-11: 18 sc 

On the second leg, make 4 ch and join it to the second leg. 

Next, crochet the body: 

12th Row: 42 sc, then switch to blue yarn and alternate blue/white until the end. 

13th Row – 15th Row: 42 sc 

16th Row: (5 sc, inc) 6 times (36) 

17th Row: 36 sc 

18th Row: (4 sc, inc) 6 times (30) 

19th Row – 20th Row: 30 sc 

21st Row: (3 sc, inc) 6 times (24) 

22nd Row – 24th Row: 24 sc 

25th Row: (2 sc, inc) 6 times (18) 

25th Row: (2 sc, dec) 6 times (18) 

26th Row: 18 sc 

27th Row: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (12) 

28th Row: 6 dec 

Head: In brown color 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18) 

4th Row: (2 sc, inc) 6 times (24) 

5th Row: (3 sc, inc) 6 times (30) 

6th Row: (4 sc, inc) 6 times (36) 

7th Row: (5 sc, inc) 6 times (42) 

8th Row – 12th Row: 42 sc 

13th Row: (5 sc, dec) 6 times (36) 

14th Row: (4 sc, dec) 6 times (30) 

15th Row: (3 sc, dec) 6 times (24) 

16th Row: (2 sc, dec) 6 times (18) 

17th Row: (1 sc, dec) 6 times (12) 

18th Row: 6 dec. Before the head, where the MC was, insert the eyes on the 3rd row, with a distance of 3 stitches, embroider the eyebrows. 

Muzzle: In brown 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row: (1 sc, inc) 6 times (18) 

4th Row: 4 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 4 sc (20) 

5th Row – 6th Row: 20 sc. Insert the nose or embroider it. 

Ears: In brown 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row – 4th Row: 12 sc. Crochet 6 sc through both sides. 

Arms: Start with brown 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row – 5th Row: 12 sc, then switch to blue and alternate (blue/white). 

6th Row – 16th Row: 12 sc 

17th Row: 6 dec 

Tail: In brown 

1st Row: 6 sc in a magic ring (6) 

2nd Row: 6 inc (12) 

3rd Row: 12 sc 

4th Row: (2 sc, dec) 3 times (9) 

Scarf: In mint color 

Chain 35, close it in a circle. Make 1 chain as a turning chain and crochet in rounds for 3 rows. 

Once all pieces are done, sew them together, and your teddy bear is ready! 

The post Cute Brown Teddy Bear Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials 

– yarn Dolphin Fine 80513, 100g/270m, 1 skein 

– hook 2.5 – white Alize Softy yarn for the muzzle 

– Gazzal cotton baby yarn 3425.50g/165m 

– yarn YarnArt jeans, white color (very little) 

-black yarn for eyebrows 

– eyes (half beads 10mm) 

– cotter pin 25mm – 2 pcs 

– discs diameter 30mm – 4pcs 

– thick cardboard 

-wire 50cm 

-Crystal glue 

– filler 

Abbreviations 

sc – single crochet 

dec – decrease 

inc – increase 

CH-chain 

PATTERN 

Pens 

1. 6sc into magic ring 

2nd inc*6 (12) 

3-4. 2 rows 12sc (12) 

5.dec,4sc,dec,4sc (10) 

6-22. 17 rows 10sc (10). 

I have a frame in my handles, for this you need to cut off 24 cm of wire and bend 2 cm on each side and tie it with adhesive tape. insert the wire into the handle and fill with holofiber. 

23. we knit 5 sc for both walls of the arm, cut and fasten the thread, hide 

Tail 

The right leg is filled in the course of knitting 

1. cast on 9ch, then in the second loop from the hook we make an increase, 6sc, 3sc in 1 loop, 6sc, inc (20) 

2. 1sc, 2inc, 5sc, 3inc, 6sc, 2inc (26) 

3. (3sc,inc)*6, 2sc (51) 

4. 3sc,inc, (4sc,inc)*5.2sc (37) 

cut out the insole. 

5. 37sc per salary (37) 

6-8. Row 37sc (37) 

insert the insole. 

9.8dec, 14sc, 4dec (25) 

10.25sc (25) 

11.6dec, 5sc, 4dec (15) 

12.15sc (15) 

13.dec,13sc (14) 

14-28. 15 rows 14sc, at the end of the 28th row we knit another 4sc and move the marker. 

we insert the disk and the cotter pin between the 26th and 27th rows (the leg looks at you, we insert the cotter pin on the right). 

29. 7dec, cut the thread, tighten the hole, hide the tails. 

!We knit the left leg in the same way as the right one, only at the end of the 28th row it is NOT necessary to knit additional columns, and accordingly the cotter pin must be inserted on the left! 

Body 

fill in the course of knitting 

1. 6sc into magic ring 

2. inc*6 (12) 

3.(1sc,inc)*4 (18) 

4. (2sc,inc)*3 (24) 

5. (3sc,inc)*6 (30) 

6. (4sc,inc)*6 (36) 

7. (5sc,inc)*6 (42) 

8-16. Rows 42sc insert the legs between 6-7 rows, between the cotter pins the same distance in front and behind. we put a disk on the cotter pin and fasten it with the help of round-nose pliers. 

17. 12sc, (1sc,dec)*6,12sc (36) 

18. 11sc,dec,11sc,dec (34) 

19-25. Rows 54sc 

26. 6sc, attach the handle and together with the body we knit 5sc, then along the body 14sc, attach the Second hand and also knit 5sc, then along the body 4sc (54) 

27.17dec (17) 

we continue to knit the head 

1. 4inc, 3sc in st, 8inc, 3sc in 1 st, 5inc (36) 

2. (2sc,inc)*12 (48) 

3. (7sc,inc)*6 (54) 

4-11. 8rows 54sc 

12. (7sc,dec)*6 (48) 

13. (6sc, dec)*6 (42) 

14. (5sc,dec)*6 (36) 

15. (4sc, dec)*6 (30) 

16. (3sc, dec)*6 (24) 

17. (2sc,dec)*6 (18) 

18. (1sc,dec)*6 (12) 

19.6dec(6) 

fill, PULL the hole. 

Muzzle 

for the muzzle we take Alize Softy in white. 

1. we cast on 8CH And in the second loop from the hook we make an increase, then 5sc, 4sc into the loop, 5sc, inc (18) 

2. 2inc, 6sc, 3inc, 6sc, inc (24). 

3. (1sc,inc)*2, 6sc, (1sc,inc)*3.7sc,inc (30) 

4-5. 2 rows 30sc, leave tail for sewing. 

EARS 

1. 6sc into magic ring 

2. inc*6 (12) 

3. (1sc,inc)*6 (18) 

4-5. 2rows 18sc 

Tail 

1.6sc INTO MAGIC RING 

2nd inc*6 (12) 

3.12sc 

sew on the Muzzle 

do not forget to fill the muzzle with holofiber at the end 

– sew on the ears 

– sew on a ponytail 

– glue eyes 

– Sew on the spout 

– Sew on a patch 

– we make out Mishutka 

Patch 

1. dial 8CH and starting from the second loop from the hook Knit 6sc, turn Knit 

2-6. CH, 6 sc, turn further in a circle, we tie our square with single crochets. 

spout 

1. 7CH start knitting from the second loop from the hook 5sc, turn 

2. CH, 2sc, dec, 1sc , turn 

3. CH, 1sc, dec, sc, turn 

4. CH, 1sc, dec, turn 

5. dec, then we tie the Nose with single crochets. 

PANTS 

We will need: 

– knitting needles 2 

– Gazal cotton baby yarn 5423.50g/165m 

– Needle 

1. Cast on 72 loops and distribute on 4 knitting needles, 18 loops each. 

2. We knit with front stitch 9cm (I have 30 rows) 

3. then we knit only on two knitting needles, also with front stitch 10 rows 

4. 6 rows with an elastic band 1 * 1 close the loops and do the same on the other two knitting needles 

Sew on Panties 

then we make a hem on the top of the Pants for elastic or lace: 

we bend the upper part (about 0.7 cm) into the inside of the pants and sew it to the main fabric 

We insert an elastic band or lace. 

I made a lace from 100 air loops 

We knit a butterfly 

we collect 8 loops on the knitting needles and knit 12 cm with front stitch, close the loops and leave a long thread. 

further on the design, see Video 

The post Pants Teddy Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

REQUIRED MATERIALS FOR TEDDY: 

 The main plush yarn of Himalaya Dolphin Baby – 1 skein (or a little more – depending on the individual knitting density) 

 Black yarn for embroidering eyelashes and tightening the muzzle – at your discretion (I used Alize FOREVER acrylic) 

 Semi-cotton or acrylic yarn to match the main one for sewing parts (I sew with plush yarn) 

 Filler – holofiber 

Hook – No. 3.5-4.5 for the body, depending on preference (I used No. 4) 

Safety or sewn eyes – diameter 9.5-10 mm (I advise – sewn eyes) 

 Black velvet nose on screw fastening – width 2.0 cm, 

height – 1.5 cm 

 Needle for sewing details and embroidery 

Scissors 

 Marker for marking the beginning of a row 

REQUIRED CLOTHING MATERIALS: 

 Semi-cotton yarn – Gazzal baby cotton XL – slightly less than 1 skein for overalls and bandages, 0.5 skein for shorts – pink No. 3411, purple No. 3414, turquoise No. 3426 

 Semi-cotton yarn – Alize cotton gold – 1/3 skein – pink No. 33, jeans No. 40 

 Hook – No. 2.1 

 Knitting needles – No. 3 mm and No. 4.5 mm 

 Buttons – 2-3 pieces with a diameter of 10-15 mm (depending on the chosen clothes) 

 Needle for sewing on buttons, sewing on items 

Scissors 

 Marker for marking the beginning of the row When using Himalaya Dolphin Baby yarn and hook # 4 (tight knit), the toy comes out about 23-25 cm in size. 

ABBREVATİONS 

Crochet: 

Sc – single crochet 

Dec – decrease 

Inc – increase 

Sl-st – connecting post 

 * – repeat the number of times 

PATTERN

HEAD: 

The marker runs down the center of the bottom of the bear’s face. If necessary – knit an offset loop – depends on the individual knitting density. 

1. MAGIC RING, 9 sc into magic ring (9) 

2.9 inc (18) 

 Remove the marker, knit another 2 sc, put the marker – this is necessary to level the spiral transition of knitting under the nose and it became more invisible. 

3.3 sc, 4 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 4 inc, 2 sc (27) 

4.27 sc (27) 

5.3 sc, (inc, 1 sc) * 4, 2 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 4, 2 sc (37) 

6.37 sc (in this row I have + 1 offset loop, be guided by your knitting density) (37) 

7.3 sc, (2 sc, inc) * 4, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, (inc, 2 sc) * 4, 2 sc (49) 

• Increases marked in blue – the relative center of the toy’s muzzle. 

8-12. 49 sc (49) 

13.47 sc, dec (48) – the decrease should be located in the center of the lower part of the head 

14. (6 sc, dec) * 6 (42) 

15.42 sc (42) 

16. (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36) 

17. (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30) 

18. (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24) 

 At this stage, without tying it to the end, put the holofiber, spreading it well on the sides. And we do a nose-tightening. The muzzle of the toy depends on how well the holofiber is distributed. 

NOSE TIGHTENING: 

• Insert a needle with acrylic thread of yarn color or black color from the lower side of the muzzle (green pin or pink) – in the center between 9-10 row. We display amigurumi in the center of the ring. 

We again insert the needle under the muzzle in the center between 9-10 rows and draw the amigurumi in the center of the ring. The result is a loop over the knitted fabric. We make another such loop into the same holes and tighten – we pull the ends of the thread in opposite directions, pulling the muzzle, – the muzzle is slightly flattened, and cheeks are formed. We fasten it by tying 2-3 knots under the muzzle in the area of the 9-10 row 

 Insert the spout into the amigurumi ring. We make sure that the acrylic thread of the tightening coincides with the center of the nose, so that the muzzle is symmetrical and beautiful. We take out a part of the holofiber from the head so that you can put the plug on the spout, nothing more. We put a plug, watch the symmetry of the thread. We put back the holofiber. 

 We distribute the holofiber well into the cheeks and forehead, forming a triangle. 

We finish knitting the head. 

19. (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18) 

20. (1 sc, dec) * 6 (12) 

21.6 dec (6). 

 We report the holofiber, tighten, fasten, cut and hide the thread. 

 If you have difficulties with the plug and tightening, you can first insert the spout, fixing it, and do the tightening under it after finishing knitting the head. But the expression of the toy’s muzzle is already changing! You can also glue or embroider the spout. 

EYE TREATMENT: 

• If you used a long enough thread to tighten your nose, you can continue to tighten your eyes with it. Or take a new one. 

 We insert the needle under the muzzle at the fixation point of the nose tightening (point D) and bring it out above the nose between rows 3 and 4 (point A), insert the needle between rows 3 and 2 (point B), as if grabbing 1 sc and pull it out under the muzzle in in the center of 11-12 rows (point D1). 

Tightening according to the scheme: D A B D1. 

 Pull, pulling the eye. We fix by tying 2-3 knots. 

Similarly, we tighten the second eye. 

Tightening according to the scheme: D1 B D D 

 Repeat a couple of times for each eye. The distance between the ties is 6-7 sc. The distance between the eyes after sewing is about 4 sc. 

• We take the sewn eyes and sew them in the places of the tightening, with their help, also pulling the muzzle a little. If you have false eyes, they must be fixed at the same time as the nose is installed. 

 We embroider eyelashes, eyebrows – at will. 

IMPORTANT! The expression of the toy’s muzzle depends on the quality and strength of the tightening, the location of the eyes, and the stuffing of the head! Make 2-3 knots after each tightening or fixing the eye – if the thread breaks, the ties made earlier will remain in place. 

BODY: 

1. MAGIC RING, 6 sc into magic ring (6) 

2.6 inc (12) 

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18) 

4.1 sc, inc, (2 sc, inc) * 5, 1 sc (24) 

5. (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30) 

6.2 sc, inc, (4 sc, inc) * 5, 2 sc (36) 

7. (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42) 

8-10. 42 sc (42) 

11. (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36) 

12.36 sc (36) 

13. (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30) 

14.30 sc (30) 

15. (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24) 

16.24 sc (24) 

17. (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18) 

18.18 sc (18) 

19. (4 sc, dec) * 3 (15) 

20.15 sc, sl-st (15) 

• Leave the thread to be sewn to the head. 

 Fill the body with holofiber, evenly distributing it from the center to the sides. 

 Sew the head to the body. Due to the tightening, the head itself seems to sit on the body at an angle, absorbing the last 2 rows (according to the pyramid principle). 

UPPER LEGS (2 parts): 

Both legs up to the 6th row are knitted in the same way, from the 6th row there are small discrepancies for the symmetry of the legs. 

1. MAGIC RING, 6 sc into magic ring (6) 

2.6 inc (12) 

3. (3 sc, inc) * 3 (15) 

4-5. 15 sc (15) 

Left foot: 

6.2 dec, 11 sc (13) 

7.13 sc (13) 

8.dec, 11 sc (12) 

9.12 sc (12) 

10.dec, 10 sc (11) 

Right foot 

6.2 sc, 2 dec, 9 sc (13) 

7.13 sc (13) 

8.2 sc, dec, 9 sc (12) 

9.12 sc (12) 

10.2 sc, dec, 8 sc (11) 

 Place holofiber in the lower part of the legs. 

11.dec, 9 sc (10) 

12.dec, 8 sc (9) 

13.dec, 7 sc (8) 

11.2 sc, dec, 7 sc (10) 

12.2 sc, dec, 6 sc (9) 

13.2 sc, dec, 5 sc (8) 

Optionally, row 13 can not be knitted – 12 rows of paws are connected in a beige bear, 13 rows of paws are connected in a peach bear. 

 Put in a little holofiber, in the last 2 rows put a little holofiber so that after sewing the paws do not stick out, but neatly bend around the body contour. 

Fold in half, connect with 4 sc 

• Leave the thread for sewing. 

 When sewing the paws to the body, the places of decreases in the 6th row should be clearly expressed and facing the body – the paws, as it were, repeat the contour of the body. 

 Sew on the paws, stepping back 1 row from the junction of the head with the body. Distance between paws in front is 5-6 sc, behind – 5-6 sc. You can sew on the paws at different distances in the front and back, but keep this in mind when knitting clothes. 

LOWER FEET (2 parts): 

1. Cast on 6 ch Begin to knit into the second stitch from the hook – inc, 3 sc, 5 sc in 1, continue to knit along the second side of the ch chain – 3 sc, 3 sc into the first unknitted stitch of the ch chain that we skipped at the beginning row (16) 

2.2 inc, 3 sc, 5 inc, 3 sc, 3 inc (26) 

3. (1 sc, inc) * 2, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 5, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) * 3 (36) 

4-6. 36 sc (36) 

• The marker runs down the center of the heel, the reference point is the ch chain from the first row. If necessary, knit an offset loop to reach the center. The offset loop is individual and depends on the yarn and knitting density. 

Right paw: 

7.9 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 6, 9 sc (30) 

8.6 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 6, 6 sc (24) 

9.3 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 6, 3 sc (18) 

10.18 sc (18) 

Left paw: 

7.9 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 6, 9 sc (30) 

8.6 sc, (dec, 1 sc) * 6, 6 sc (24) 

9.3 sc, (1 sc, dec) * 6, 3 sc (18) 

10.18 sc (18) 

 Fill the paws with holofiber, distributing the filler well on the sides. Pay special attention to the heel. 

11.7 sc, 3 sc together, 8 sc (16) 

12.16 sc (16) 

13.7 sc, dec, 7 sc (15) 

14.15 sc (15) 

15.7 sc, dec, 6 sc (14) 

16.14 sc (14) 

17.7 sc, dec, 5 sc (13) 

11.8 sc, 3 sc together, 7 sc (16) 

12.16 sc (16) 

13.7 sc, dec, 7 sc (15) 

14.15 sc (15) 

15.6 sc, dec, 7 sc (14) 

16.14 sc (14) 

17.5 sc, dec, 7 sc (13) 

 Put in the holofiber, in the last 3 rows put a little holofiber so that after sewing the paws do not stick out, but neatly bend around the body contour. 

Fold in half, connect by knitting 5 sc (knit on 1 side with a decrease) 

 Sew the paws to the body between the 9th and 10th row. 

TAIL: 

1. MAGIC RING, 6 sc into magic ring 

2. (1 sc, inc) * 3 (9) 

3.9 sc (9) 

4. (1 sc, dec) * 3, sl-st (6) 

• Leave the thread for sewing. 

 Fill with holofiber. 

 Sew on between 6-8 rows and make sure the correct position is symmetrical about the legs and the center of the back. 

Ears (2 parts): 

1. MAGIC RING, 6 sc into magic ring (6) 

2.6 inc (12) 

3. (1 sc, inc) * 6 (18) 

4. (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24) 

5. (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18) 

Fold each ear in half, knit 9 sc. Leave the thread for sewing. 

 Sew to head between 12 and 13 side by side at a distance of 6-7 sc 

TEDDY IS READY! 

CLOTHES FOR BEARS 

SPOKES 

NECESSARY MATERIALS: 

 Semi-cotton yarn – Gazzal baby cotton XL – slightly less than 1 skein for overalls and bandages, 0.5 skein for shorts – pink No. 3411, purple No. 3414, turquoise No. 3426 

 Hook – No. 2.1 

 Knitting needles – No. 3 mm and No. 4.5 mm 

 Buttons – 2-3 pieces with a diameter of 10-15 mm (depending on the chosen clothes) 

 Needle for sewing on buttons, sewing on items 

Scissors 

 Marker for marking the beginning of a row 

ABBREVATİONS 

Spokes: 

 persons – front loop 

Purl – purl loop 

 N – yarn 

 КР – edge loop – ALWAYS REMOVED UNSECURED 

Inc – increase through yarn 

 * – repeat the number of times 

Crochet: 

Sc – single crochet 

Sl-st – slip stitch 

Ch – chain 

SHORTS 

 Cast on 59 stitches on needles # 3. 

 We begin to knit with a 1×1 elastic band. 

1.1 KP, (knit, purl) * 29 (59) 

2.1 KP, (purl, knit) * 28, 2 purl (59) 

3.1 KP, (knit, purl) * 29 (59) 

4.1 KP, (purl, knit) * 28, 2 purl (59) 

5.1 KP, (knit, purl) * 29 (59) 

• Change the needles to size 4.5. 

6.1 KP, 5 knit, inc, (6 knit, inc) * 8, 4 knit, purl (68) 

7.1 KP, 67 purl (68) 

8.1 KP, 66 knit, purl (68) 

9. Bind off 3 loops with purl loops by tying 2 loops together, 57 purl. When there are 7 loops on the needles, use a hook on the other side of the knitting needle to close 6 loops. Purl the remaining loop after closing knitting (59) 

10.1 KP, 57 knit, purl (59) 

11.1 KP, 58 purl (59) 

12.1 КР, 57 knit, from the last loop we knit 3 loops – for the back wall 1 knit, for the front wall 1 knit, for the front wall 1 purl (61) 

13.1 КР, 59 purl, from the last loop we knit 3 loops – behind the back wall 1 purl, behind the front wall 1 purl, behind the back wall 1 purl (63) 

14.1 КР, 61 knit, from the last loop we knit 2 loops – for the front wall 1 knit, for the back wall 1 purl (64) 

15.1 КР, 62 purl, from the last loop we knit 2 loops – for the front wall 1 purl, for the back wall 1 purl (65) 

16.1 KP, 63 knit, purl (65) 

17.1 KP, 64 purl (65) 

18.1 KP, 63 knit, purl (65) 

19.1 KP, 64 purl (65) 

20.1 KP, 63 knit, purl (65) 

21.1 KP, 64 purl (65) 

22.1 KP, 63 knit, purl (65) 

23.1 KP, 64 purl (65) 

24.1 KP, 63 knit, purl (65) 

25. Close knitting in an elastic way with purl loops – remove 1, purl 1, transfer 2 loops from the right knitting needle to the left knitting needle, knit 2 together with the purl; 1 purl, from the right knitting needle, transfer 2 loops to the left knitting needle, knit 2 together with the purl. Thus, close the news row. 

• Leave a long end to connect the shorts under the ponytail. 

 With the help of a crochet hook and the left thread at the beginning of knitting, we form a loop for the button – we knit 8-9 ch, fasten in the place of the decrease in the 9th row. 

• Sew a button on the opposite side. 

• Connect 2 halves under the tail with a crochet hook with connecting posts or sew with a needle and thread. 

 Using a crochet / needle and thread, connect the section between the legs – 2-3 loops before and after the seam. No more, tk. paws may not fit in the diameter of the paw holes in the shorts. 

• Sew on the front button for the strap. 

Shorts strap: 

 From the side of the back we attach the thread, with the help of a hook we collect 48 ch. skip 9 loops (hole for the button), at 10 loops from the hook, we begin to knit hdc to the end of the ch chain, fasten the thread. 

 Perhaps your chain and the number of skipped loops will be more / less – depending on the size of the toy and the density of knitting. 

OVERALLS 

 We collect 36 loops on the needles No. 3, we knit with yarn of an additional (pink for me) color. 

 The sleeve placket is highlighted in blue. 

1.1 KP, 35 purl (36) 

2.1 KP, 5 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 8 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 3 knit, 1 purl (44) 

3.1 KP, 43 purl (44) 

4.1 KP, 6 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 7 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 10 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 7 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 4 knit, 1 purl (52) 

5.1 KP, 51 purl (52) 

6.1 KP, 2 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 9 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, (4 knit, inc) * 2, 4 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 9 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 3 knit, inc, 2 knit, 1 purl (64) 

7.1 KP, 63 purl (64) 

8.1 KP, 3 knit, inc, 6 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 3 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 3 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc , 6 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 3 knit, inc, 5 knit, inc, 3 knit, inc, 1 knit, 1 knit, inc, 4 knit, inc, 3 knit, 1 purl (70) 

9. 1 КР, 10 purl, close the next 15 stitches of the sleeves in an elastic way, knitting with purl loops (the last loop goes to the front placket). Knit 23 more persons (in total, the front plank is 24 loops), close the next 16 loops of the sleeves, knitting with purl loops (the last loop goes to the back plank). Knit 11 more knit, purl (48) 

 Close the loops marked in blue. 

 Change the knitting needles to No. 4.5 and the color of the yarn to another (optional, I have purple). 

10.1 КР, (2 knit, inc) * 5, 1 knit, from the next loop we knit 2 faces of the loop (first behind the front wall of the loop, then behind the back wall of the loop), cast on 3 loops (due to the closed loops of the sleeve), from next loop we knit 2 faces of the loop (first behind the front wall of the loop, then behind the back wall of the loop), (2 knit, inc) * 10, 2 knit, from the next loop we knit 2 faces of the loop (first for the front wall of the loop, then behind the back wall loops), cast on 3 loops (due to the closed loops of the sleeves), from the next loop we knit 2 faces of the loop (first behind the front wall of the loop, then behind the back wall of the loop), (2 knit, inc) * 4, knit, purl (77) 

11.1 KP, 76 purl (77) 

12.1 KP, 75 knit, purl (77) 

13.1 KP, 76 purl (77) 

14.1 KP, 75 knit, purl (77) 

15.1 KP, 76 purl (77) 

16.1 KP, 75 knit, purl (77) 

 If you close the loops in the 17th row, you get a cute dress. 

17.1 KP, 76 purl (77) 

18.1 KP, 75 knit, purl (77) 

19.1 KP, 76 purl (77) 

20.1 KP, 75 knit, purl (77) 

21.2 close loops by knitting 2 loops together with purl (the last loop counts towards the total number of loops in the row), 68 purl, when 6 loops remain to the end of the row, use a hook on the other side of the knitting needle to close 5 loops, knit the last loop formed with purl (70 ) 

22.1 KP, 68 knit, purl (70) 

23.1 КР, 68 purl, from the last loop tie 3 loops – 1 purl behind the back wall of the loop, 1 purl behind the front wall of the loop, 1 purl behind the back wall of the loop) (72) 

24.1 KP, 70 knit, from the last loop work 3 loops – K1 for the front wall of the loop, K1 for the back wall of the loop, 1 purl for the front wall of the loop (74) 

25.1 KP, 72 purl, from the last loop tie 2 loops – 1 purl behind the front wall of the hinge, 1 purl behind the back wall of the hinge (75) 

26.1 KP, 73 knit, from the last loop, tie 2 loops – K1 for the front wall of the loop, 1 purl for the back wall of the loop (76) 

27.1 KP, 75 purl (76) 

28.1 KP, 74 knit, purl (76) 

29.1 KP, 75 purl (76) 

30.1 KP, 74 knit, purl (76) 

31.1 KP, 75 purl (76) 

32.1 CD, 74 knit, purl (76) 

33.1 KP, 75 purl (76) 

34.1 CD, 74 knit, purl (76) 

35.1 KP, 75 purl (76) 

36.1 KP, 74 knit, purl (76) 

37. Close row by knitting 2 stitches together with purl. Do not tighten the edge, close it loosely enough, otherwise the paw will not get through. 

Or close it in an elastic way like in shorts – it depends on the individual knitting density. 

• Leave a long end for connection under the tail. 

 In the place of the decrease in the 21st row, attach the thread and using the hook No. 2.1 we knit the loops for the buttons – 6 ch, (+ skip 1 loop along the bar), 5 sc, 5 ch (+ skip 1 loop along the bar), 5 sc , 6 ch 

Sew 3 buttons on the opposite side. 

 Connect 2 halves under the tail using a crochet hook 

connecting posts or sew with a needle and thread. 

 Using a crochet / needle and thread, connect the section between the legs – 2-3 loops before and after the seam. No more, tk. paws may not fit in the diameter of the paw holes in the shorts. 

Bow on jumpsuit: 

 Cast on 7 stitches on # 3 needles tight enough. 

1.1 KP, 6 purl (7) 

2.1 KP, 5 knit, purl (7) 

 Knit 16 rows, alternating rows 1 and 2. 

Closing with a hook. 

 Using a needle, pull the center, rewind the middle, tie / sew to the jumpsuit. 

Headband: 

 Cast on 8 stitches on needles # 3. 

 We knit with a lush elastic band 1×1 55-56 rows (when knitting front loops, insert a knitting needle 1 row lower, purl loops are knitted as usual), change the color of the yarn at will and knit 55-56 more rows (the number of rows may differ due to individual density knitting and head size of the toy). 

Close knitting. We hold by 1 end of the bandage, scroll the second one 1 time, and in this position we connect / sew 2 halves using a hook and connecting posts. 

FLUFFY RUBBER: 

1.1 CD, (knit, purl) * 3, purl (8) 

2.1 KP, (purl, knit) * 3, 1 purl (8) 

• We always knit the faces of the loop in the loop of the previous row! 

 Alternate rows 1 and 2. 

 The number of rows depends on the volume of the elastic head, in the process of knitting, try on a toy. 

CLOTHES FOR BEARS 

HOOK 

NECESSARY MATERIALS: 

 Semi-cotton yarn – Alize cotton gold – 1/3 skein – pink No. 33, jeans No. 40. 

 Hook – No. 2.1 

 Knitting needles – No. 3 mm and No. 4.5 mm 

 Buttons – 2-3 pieces with a diameter of 10-15 mm (depending on the chosen clothes) 

 Needle for sewing on buttons, sewing on items 

Scissors 

 Marker for marking the beginning of a row 

ABBREVATİONS 

Crochet: 

 KA – amigurumi ring 

Sc – single crochet 

 hdc – half double crochet 

Dc – double crochet 

W – bump – 5 loose dc in 1 loop 

Dec – decrease 

Inc – increase 

Sl-st – connecting post 

Ch – chain 

 V – combination “dc, ch, dc” 

 * – repeat the number of times 

JACKET WITH WOOL 

 Knit with crochet stitches. At the beginning of each row, we do 2 ch lifts. In the next row, 2 ch lifts are considered a separate dc. 

We collect 48 ch + 1 ch lifting. 

1. In the second loop from the hook, knit 48 sc (48) 

• Start each subsequent row with 2 ch lifts, which are considered separate dc and are counted in the total number of stitches in the row. 

2. Turn, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 2 loops on the canvas skip (form a buttonhole), 5 dc, V, 8 dc, V, 12 dc, V, 8 dc, V, 8 dc (57) 

• V – this icon means that in 1 dc you need to knit the following combination: (dc, ch, dc). Further in the description, this combination is replaced by this symbol V. This combination in each row is knitted one above the other under the ch of the combination. It forms the sleeves and the front + back of the dress. 

3. Rotate, 2 ch, 4 dc, inc, 4 dc, V, 2 dc, inc, 4 dc, inc, 2 dc, V, (3 dc, inc) * 3, 2 dc, V, 2 dc, inc , 4 dc, inc, 2 dc, V, 4 dc, inc, 5 dc (75) 

4. Pivot, 2 ch, 6 dc, inc, 5 dc, V, (3 dc in 1 loop) * 14, V, 3 dc, inc, 5 dc, inc, 5 dc, inc, 3 dc, V, ( 3 dc in 1 loop) * 14, V, 12 dc (144) 

 To reduce the puffiness of the sleeve, you can do 2 dc in 1 loop, or alternate 2 dc in 1/3 dc in 1. 

5. Twist, 2 ch, 14 dc (the last 14th dc we knit under ch V), 7 ch, skip the sleeve line, and start knitting in ch of the next combination V, 4 dc, inc, 8 dc, inc, 7 dc, inc, 4 dc, 7 ch, skip the sleeve line and start knitting in ch next V, 16 dc (74) 

6. Turn, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 2 loops on the canvas skip (we form a loop for the button), 2 dc, (3 dc in 1 loop) * 64, 5 dc (203) 

 To reduce the flounce of the shuttlecock, you can do 2 dc in 1 loop, or alternate 2 dc in 1/3 dc in 1. 

7. Turn, 2 ch, 203 dc (204) 

 Fasten the thread, cut. 

• Sew on 2 buttons on the opposite side of the strip. 

OVERALLS 

 Knit with crochet stitches. At the beginning of each row, we do 2 ch lifts. In the next row, 2 ch lifts are considered a separate dc. 

We collect 48 ch + 1 ch lifting. 

1. In the second loop from the hook, knit 48 sc (48) 

• Start each subsequent row with 2 ch lifts, which are considered separate dc and are counted in the total number of stitches in the row. 

2. Turn, 2 ch, 1 dc, 2 ch, 2 loops on the canvas skip (form a buttonhole), 5 dc, V, 8 dc, V, 12 dc, V, 8 dc, V, 8 dc (57) 

• V – this icon means that in 1 dc you need to knit the following combination: (dc, ch, dc). Further in the description, this combination is replaced by this symbol V. This combination in each row is knitted one above the other under the ch of the combination. It forms the sleeves and the front + back of the dress. 

3. Rotate, 2 ch, 4 dc, inc, 4 dc, V, 2 dc, inc, 4 dc, inc, 2 dc, V, (3 dc, inc) * 3, 2 dc, V, 2 dc, inc , 4 dc, inc, 2 dc, V, 4 dc, inc, 5 dc (75) 

4. Pivot, 2 ch, 6 dc, inc, 5 dc, V, (3 dc in 1 loop) * 14, V, 3 dc, inc, 5 dc, inc, 5 dc, inc, 3 dc, V, ( 3 dc in 1 loop) * 14, V, 12 dc (144) 

 To reduce the puffiness of the sleeve, you can do 2 dc in 1 loop, or alternate 2 dc in 1/3 dc in 1. 

5. Twist, 2 ch, 14 dc (last 14th dc we knit under ch V), 7 ch, skip the sleeve line, and start knitting under ch of the next combination V, 4 dc, inc, 8 dc, inc, 7 dc, inc, 4 dc (last dc we knit under ch V), 7 ch, skip the sleeve line, and start knitting under ch of the next combination V, 16 dc (74) 

6. Rotate, 2 ch, 4 dc, (inc, dc, W, dc, inc, 3 dc) * 8, inc, 5 dc (92) 

• If you are crocheting very tightly, it may be worth changing the crochet hook to 0.5 sizes larger, i.e. to number 2.5, so that at the end of the legs they can pass well through the pants – be guided by your knitting density and size toys. 

7. Turn, 2 ch, 92 dc (93) 

8. Swivel, 2 ch, 4 dc, (W, 9 dc) * 8, W, 8 dc (94) 

9. Swivel, 2 ch, 90 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc (95) 

10.Swivel, 1 ch, 3 sl-st, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 5 dc, (W, 9 dc) * 8, 1 hdc, 1 sc, 3 sl-st (95) 

11. Turn, 1 ch, 4 dc, 1 sc, 1 hdc, 83 dc, 1 hdc (90) 

12.Pivot, 2 ch, 10 dc, (W, 9 dc) * 7, W, 2 dc, 1 hdc (85) 

13. Twist, 2 ch, 85 dc, 5 ch, attach to second plank with sl-st (91) 

 Next, we continue to knit in twisting rows so that the lower part of the overalls does not differ from the upper part. 

14. Twist, 2 ch, 2 dc, (W, 9 dc) * 9, sl-st in ch lift, knit at start of row (93) 

15. Twist, 2 ch, 93 dc, sl-st in ch up, knit at start of row (94) 

16. Twist, 2 ch, 8 dc, (W, 9 dc) * 8, W, 4 dc, sl-st in ch lift, knit at start of row (94) 

 Next, we knit a jumper between the legs – it should go in the center 

overalls, under the tail – if necessary, knit sl-st left / right, 

to align the beginning of the knitting of the lintel. 

JUMPER BETWEEN SHAFT: 

1. Turn, 2 ch lift, 7 dc (8) 

2. Swivel, 2 ch lift, 7 dc (8) 

Fold the part clearly in half, use slst and a hook to tie the jumper between the legs to the opposite side of the canvas (or sew with a needle). 

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 Sh – Magic Ring 

 Ch – Chain 

 Sl-st – slip stitch 

 sc – single crochet 

 DC – double crochet 

 hdc – half double crochet 

 inc – increase 

PATTERN

PATTERN

Head / body:

We knit in a circle.

We fill as we knit.

1р: 6sc Into magic ring

2p: incx6 (12)

3p: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

4p: (2sc, inc) x6 (24)

5p: (Зsc, inc) x6 (30)

6p: (4sc, inc) x6 (36)

7p: (5sc, inc) x6 (42)

And insert eyes on distance Зsc.

8-12p: 42 sc

13p: (5sc, dec) x6 (36)

14p: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)

15p: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)

16p: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)

17p: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

18р: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

19-20p: 18sc

21p: (2sc, inc) x6 (24)

22-23r: 24sc

24p: (3sc, inc) x6 (30)

25-26p: 30sc

27p: (4sc, inc) x6 (36)

28-30p: 36sc

31p: (4sc, dec) x6 (30)

32p: (3sc, dec) x6 (24)

3zr: (2sc, dec) x6 (18)

34p: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

35p: decх6 (6)

Pull the hole, hide the thread inside

Muzzle:

We start the first row in the second loop from the hook.

Knit in a circle, tying a chain of CH on both sides. 5CH

1p: Зsc into the second loop, 2sc, Зsc into the last loop of the chain, 2sc (10)

2p: (incx3, 2sc) x2 (16)

Zr: ((inc, sc) х3,2sc) х2 (22)

Leave the thread for sewing.

Ears:

We knit in a circle:

1р: 6sc Into magic ring

2p: incx6 (12)

Zr: (sc, inc) x3.6sc (15)

Leave the thread for sewing.

Pens:

We knit in a circle.

Stuff 2/3 as we knit.

1р: 6sc Into magic ring

2p: incx6 (12)

Zr: (sc, inc) x6 (18)

4p: 18sc

5p: (sc, dec) x6 (12)

6-10r: 12sc

11p: dec, 10sc (11)

12p: 11sc

13p: dec, 9sc (10)

14p: 10sc

Fold in half, knit a row of 4sc.

Hide the thread inside.

Legs:

We start the first row in the second loop from the hook.

Knit in a circle, tying a chain of CH on both sides. 5CH

1p: Зsc into the second loop, 2sc, 3sc into the last loop of the chain, 2sc (10)

2p: (incx3, 2sc) x2 (16)

Zr: ((inc, sc) х3,2sc) х2 (22)

4-5p: 22sc

6p: decх3,2sc, (dec, sc) х3,5sc (16)

7p: decх2,2sc, (sc, dec) х2,4sc (12)

8-12r: 12sc

13p: dec, 10sc (11)

14p: 11sc

15p: dec, 9sc (10)

In the last row, knit the Аsc offsets.

Stitch in 2/3, fold in half and work in a row of 4sc.

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