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ABBREVATİONS

Ch – Chain

Sc – Single crochet

Dec – Decrease

İnc – İncrease

Dc – Double Crochet

Sl-st – Slip – stitch

PATTERN

Body – Amigurumi Tweety

With yellow thread

1.row: Magic ring into 8sc

2.row: 8 inc (16)

3.row: * 1 inc, 1 sc * each sc (24)

4.row: 11 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 inc (26)

5 – 9.rows: 1 sc in each sc (26)

10.row: 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc (24)

11.row: 5 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (22)

12.row: 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc (20)

13.row: 3 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (18)

14.row: 7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec (16)

15.row: 4 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (14)

16.row: Finish 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, (12) 1 sl-st.
fill it.

Head – Amigurumi Tweety

With yellow thread

1.row: Magic ring into 10 sc

2.row: 1 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc (16)

3.row: 1 inc, 4 sc, 4 inc, 4 sc, 3 inc (24)

4.row: 1 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, * 1 inc, 1 sc * x 3, 1 inc, 5 sc, * 1 inc, 1 sc * x 3 (32)

5.row: 10 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc (39)

6.row: 12 sc, * 1 inc, 2 sc * in each sc (48)

7 – 9.rows: 1 sc in each sc (48)

10.row: * 1 dec, 14 sc * each sc (45)

11.row: 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc (42)

12.row: * 12 sc, 1 dec * each sc (39)

13.row: 6 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc (36)

14.row: * 1 dec, 10 sc * each sc (33)

15.row: 2 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc (30)

16.row: * 1 dec, 8 sc * each sc (27)

17.row: 4 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc (24)

18 – 21.rows: 1 sc per sc (24)

22.row: Finish 12 dec (12) 1 sl-st
fill and sew.

Cheeks x2

With yellow thread

1.row: Magic ring into 8sc

2.row: 8 inc (16)

3.row: * 1 inc, 3 sc * each sc (20)

fill and sew.

Beak

Pull 5 chains with orange thread.

1.row: 3 sc, 5 sc to last loop, (turn) 3 sc, 2 sc (13) Finish 1 sl-st.

Sew on the head.

Legs (x2):

Pull 8 chains with orange thread.

1.row: 6 sc, 3 sc to the last loop, (turn) 5 sc, 2 sc to the last loop (16)

2.row: 1 inc, 5 sc, 3 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc (22)

3 – 6.rows: 1 sc in each sc (22)

Cut the thread and sew the first 7 loops side by side.

Keep working with the remaining 8 loops

1 – 3.rows: 8 sc (8)

4.row: 4 dec (4)

fill and sew.

Arms (x2):

We start from the hand part with yellow thread.

Pull 8 chains and create a ring with 1 sl-st.

1.row: 8 sc (8)

2 – 4.rows: 1 sc in each sc (8)

5.row: 5 dc into the same sc, 7 sc (12)

6.row: Pass the crochet over the first dc and take the thread, do the other 4 dc ‘, take the thread and bring it with all the loops, 7 sc (8)

7.row: Finish 4 dec, 1 sl-st.

fill and sew

Tail: – Amigurumi Tweety

Pull 5 chains with yellow thread.

1.row: 3 sc, 3 sc in the last loop, (turn) 2 sc in the last loop, 2 sc in the last loop.

2.row: Finish 1 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 1 sl-st

Fold it in half and sew. Sew on the body.

Sew all parts to the body in accordance with the picture.

The post Tweety Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

MATERIALS 

-CATANIA TR263 TEN (Body) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2469 FUCHSIA 

(CLOAK AND EMBROIDERY) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2477 SKY BLUE (SKIRT) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2482 TURQUOISE 

(BLOUSE AND EMBROIDERY) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2457 BLACK 

(TOP DRESS AND SHOES) 

-CATANIA 00383 CINNAMON 

(BLOUSE EDGE AND HAIR WIG) 

-1 PIECE SYNTHETIC HAIR ORANGE 

-1.75 HOOK 

-10 MM BLUE LOCK EYES 

-2 PIECES SMALL BUTTONS 

-1.5 MM COPPER WIRE 

-1 PIECE COLLAR HOOK 

(TO JOIN THE CLOAK COLLAR) 

Abbreviations 

mr: magic ring 

sc: single crochet 

inc: increase 

dec: decrease 

W: 3sc in the same stitch 

M: 3sc together decrease 

ch: chain 

sl st: slip stitch 

Dc: Double crochet 

Dcinc: Double crochet increase 

Hdc: Half double crochet 

Hdcinc: Half double crochet increase 

Tr: Triple crochet 

Bpsc: Back post single crochet 

Blo: Back loop only 

Flo: Front loop only 

*: Number of repetitions 

ARM 

With 1.75 hook; 

1: Ch 6, 6 sc in the second chain from the hook 

2: 6 inc, 12 sc 

3-4: 12 sc (2 rows) 

5: 5 sc, 1 4-popcorn stitch, 6 sc, 12 sc 

6: 12 sc 

7: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 10 sc 

Switch to light blue yarn 

8: 4 sc, 2 sl st, 4 sc, 10 sc 

9: 4 sc, 2 sc in the front loop of sl st, 4 sc, 10 sc 

10-27: 10 sc (18 rows) Finish 

***DO NOT STUFF WITH FIBER. WE WILL ONLY USE WIRE FOR ASSEMBLY TO THE BODY. 

FOOT 

With 1.75 hook; 

1: Ch 7, turn, 5 sc, 1 W, 4 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc 

2-8: 14 sc 

9: Turn, 7 sc, turn, 6 sc, turn 

10: 6 sc, turn 

11: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, turn 

12: 4 sc, we will now crochet around it 

13: 3 sc along the edge, 8 sl st forward, 3 sc along the edge, place a marker here 

14: 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (in the front loop of sl st), 1 dec, 2 sc, 14 sc 

15: 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 12 sc 

***PLACE THE WIRE IN THE BASE. 

16-20: 12 sc (5 rows) 

21: 1 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 13 sc 

22: 13 sc 

23: 2 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 14 sc 

24: 14 sc 

25: 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 15 sc 

26: 3 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 16 sc 

27: 16 sc 

28: 4 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 17 sc 

29: 17 sc 

30: 4 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 18 sc 

31-34: 18 sc (4 rows) 

35: 3 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 18 sc 

36-37: 18 sc (2 rows) 

38: 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 3 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc 

39: 18 sc 

40: 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 20 sc 

41-53: 20 sc (13 rows) 

Cut the wire on the first leg after 3 rows. 

Crochet +13 sc on the leg, ch 2, cut the yarn, we will make leg joining. 

***SEE THE PICTURES ON THE NEXT PAGE. 

-DO NOT OVERSTUFF THE UPPER PART OF THE FOOT, KEEP IT FLAT. FILL THE HEEL PART NICELY WITH FIBER. 

-INCREASES WILL BE AT THE BACK, PAY ATTENTION. 

-WHILE CROCHETING, ADJUST THE STITCHES WITH YOUR HANDS SO THAT THE STARTING POINT DOESN’T SHIFT. 

-STUFF THE FIBER EVERY 3-4 ROWS. 

CUT THE WIRE TO THE SIZE OF 30 CM. CURL THE ENDS ACCORDING TO THE BASE, TAPE WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE, SEE THE PICTURE ON THE NEXT PAGE. ** 

JOINING THE LEGS 

54: 20 sc from one leg, 2 sc on ch, 20 sc from the other leg, 2 sc on ch: 44 sc, place a marker here. 

55-61: 44 sc (7 rows) 

62: 10 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc: 42 sc (decreases will be on the sides) 

63: 42 sc 

64: 10 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc: 40 sc 

65: 40 sc 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

66: Blo 40 sc 

67: 9 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc: 38 sc 

68-77: 38 sc (10 rows) 

Now we will make arm joining. 

ARM JOINING 

78: 9 sc, 4 sc by picking up from the inside of the arm and body, 15 sc, 4 sc by picking up from the inside of the arm and body, 6 sc: 38 sc 

79: 9 sc, 6 sc remaining on the outside of the arm, 15 sc, 6 sc remaining on the outside of the arm, 6 sc: 42 sc 

80: 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc: 38 sc 

81: 38 sc 

82: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc: 32 sc 

83: 1 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc: 24 sc 

84: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6: 18 sc 

Switch to beige yarn 

85: (blo 1 sc, 1 dec) * 6: 12 sc 

86-90: 12 sc (5 rows) 

**FOR THE 82ND ROW, ATTACH THE BLUE YARN TO THE FRONT AND MIDDLE LOOP. 

CROCHET 18 SC, TURN 

CROCHET 18 SC, TURN 

1 DEC, 14 SC, 1 DEC END. 

SKIRT 

Attach the sky blue yarn to the front loop of the 63rd row. 

1: 40 sc, sl st (Ch 1 at the end of each row) 

2: (3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 40 sc 

3: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 48 sc 

4: (2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

5: (5 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

6: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

7: (6 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

8: (3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

9: (7 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

10: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 80 sc 

11: (8 sc, blo 2 sc) (24 rows) 

12: (4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc 

13-37: (9 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc (25 rows) 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

35: 2 sc, insert into the sc from one row below (34th row) in sky blue, 

1 hdc, dc next to it (34th row), insert into the sc from the sky blue row of the 33rd row, 

1 tr, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, 

1 hdc, 2 sc from the start, 2 sc to the blo: Apply the same process to the entire row (See the picture) finish. 

Make the embroideries shown in the picture with pink and turquoise yarn in single layers. 

SHORT SKIRT 

Attach the sky blue yarn to the front loop of the 63rd row. 

1: 40 sc, sl st (Ch 1 at the end of each row) 

2: (3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 40 sc 

3: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 48 sc 

4: (2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

5: (5 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

6: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

7: (6 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

8: (3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

9: (7 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

10: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 80 sc 

11: (8 sc, blo 2 sc) (24 rows) 

12: (4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc 

13-24: (9 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc (12 rows) 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

35: 2 sc, insert into the sc from one row below (34th row) in sky blue, 

1 hdc, dc next to it (34th row), insert into the sc from the sky blue row of the 33rd row, 

1 tr, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, 

1 hdc, 2 sc from the start, 2 sc to the blo: Apply the same process to the entire row (See the picture) finish. 

Make the embroideries shown in the picture with pink and turquoise yarn in single layers. 

VEST 

1: Ch 55, turn, skip 7 sc, 8 ch (buttonhole): 48 sc 

***Measure the vest against the body to ensure it’s not too loose due to hand and yarn differences. 

2-6: 48 sc 

7: Ch 7, turn (2nd buttonhole): 48 sc 

Finish. 

Now we will make the front chest part. 

Turn with the buttonhole facing to the right. And count 16 stitches forward and attach our black yarn to the 17th stitch. 

1: 8 sc, turn 

2: 1 dec, 6 sc: 7 sc, turn 

3: 5 sc, 1 dec: 6 sc, turn 

4: 1 dec, 4 sc: 5 sc, finish, continue to the vest strap, turn 

5: 2 sc, turn (turn at the end of each row without chaining) 

6-17: 2 sc finish. 

Now we’ll do the left side,  turn it over, attach the black yarn to the 8th stitch (towards the first piece) 

1: 8 sc, turn 

2: 1 dec, 6 sc: 7 sc, turn 

3: 5 sc, 1 dec: 6 sc, turn 

4: 1 dec, 4 sc: 5 sc finish, 

continue to the vest strap, turn 

5: 2 sc, turn (turn at the end of each row without chaining) 

6-17: 2 sc finish. 

Now let’s do the bottom triangle. 

Turn the chest part upside down. Skip 16 stitches, attach black yarn to the 17th stitch. 

1: 15 sc, turn 

2: 1 sl st, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sl st finish. 

With gold yarn, 

Attach the yarn from the top with the buttonhole on the right. 

Pass sc through all edges. 

When you get to the bottom triangle part, 

make 1 sc, 1 ch, make 1 sc at the bottom, then continue sc all the way. 

Finish at the buttonhole. As there is a buttonhole, we do not make gold there. 

HEAD 

1: MR 6sc 

2: 6inc (12sc) 

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18sc) 

4: 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 5, 1sc (24sc) 

5: (3sc, 1inc) * 6 (30sc) 

6: 2sc, 1inc, (4sc, 1inc) * 5, 2sc (36sc) 

7: (5sc, 1inc) * 6 (42sc) 

8: 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc) * 5, 3sc (48sc) 

9: (7sc, 1inc) * 6 (54sc) 

10: 4sc, 1inc, (8sc, 1inc) * 5, 4sc (60sc) 

11-20: 60 (10 rows) 

21: 24sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 10sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 24sc (60sc) 

22: 60sc 

23: 21sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 3, 6sc, (1inc, 1sc) * 3, 21sc (66sc) 

24-27: 66sc 

28: (9sc, 1dec) * 6 (60sc) 

29: 4sc, 1dec, (8sc, 1dec) * 5, 4sc (54sc) 

30: (7sc, 1dec) * 6 (48sc) 

31: 3sc, 1dec, (6sc, 1dec) * 5, 3sc (42sc) 

32: (5sc, 1dec) * 6 (36sc) 

33: 2sc, 1dec, (4sc, 1dec) * 5, 2sc (30sc) 

34: (3sc, 1dec) * 6 (24sc) 

35: 12dec (12sc) 

***Attach the eyes to the space on row 21. 

Attach the final eyes. 

***Refer to the next page for images. 

1: MR 8hdc 

***Work the ears 5sc forward from the eyes. (Refer to the image) 

Ear 

FACE SHAPING 

1: For eye shaping; Insert the needle from the back of the eye, go under, come back up, repeat the same for the other eye, hold the eyes and pull. Tie the yarn. Then apply the same process to the upper and lower parts. Shape the eyes. 

2: Next, make the upper line of the eye without separating the black yarn. 

3: Make the eyelashes with a single strand of yarn. Keep them thin. 

4: Make the whites of the eyes with white yarn. 

5: With a single strand of black yarn, make a line under the eye and create eyelashes from the line. 

6: Work the nose under the eye with 3sc. 

7: Add one more layer of white yarn to the eyes for clarity. 

Image 5 

WIG 

*** Do not knit too tightly, it should fit on the wig’s head without force. 

1: MR 6sc (Do not tighten the center of MR, leave it open as we’ll place the hair inside later.) 

2: BLO 6inc (12sc) 

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18sc) 

4: BLO 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 5, 1sc (24sc) 

5: (3sc, 1inc) * 6 (30sc) 

6: BLO 2sc, 1inc, (4sc, 1inc) * 5, 2sc (36sc) 

7: (5sc, 1inc) * 6 (42sc) 

8: BLO 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc) * 5, 3sc (48sc) 

9: (7sc, 1inc) * 6 (54sc) 

10: BLO 4sc, 1inc, (8sc, 1inc) * 5, 4sc (60sc) 

11-12: 60 (2 rows) 

— Attach the wig to the head. Using a thin yarn in wig color, stitch the hair from one loop of the wig, and one strand of hair, respectively. When you reach the top, leave a bit of hair. Cut the hair, roll it, and secure it by stitching. Then, at the top point, secure it by stitching with yarn to the open center of the wig. You can also use synthetic yarn to add hair instead of pre-made hair. 

HAIR ALTERNATIVE 

With synthetic yarn or any yarn; 

1: First, make a chain in the length of the top, attach hair strands to the right and left sides of the chain. 

Secure them. 

SHOE 

With a 1.75mm hook and black yarn. 

1: Ch 10, turn, 8sc, 1w, 7sc, 1inc, sl-st 1ch (20sc) 

2: 1inc, 7sc, 3inc, 7sc, 2inc, sl-st, 1ch (26sc) 

3: 1sc, 1inc, 7sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 3, 7sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 2, sl-st 1ch (32sc) 

4: BLO 32sc, sl-st 1ch 

5-7: 32sc 

8: 6sc, 8dec, 10sc (24sc) sl-st 

9: 6sc, 4dec, 10sc (20sc) sl-st 

10: 6sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 9sc (22sc) 

11-16: 22sc (6 rows) 

17: 6sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 2hdc, 10sc (22) 

***Attach fuchsia yarn to the front loop of the 4th row, do 32sl-st. 

Do not make the sl-st too tight to prevent shrinkage. 

CAPE 

With a 1.75mm hook and fuchsia yarn; knit without cross stitches. 

1: Ch 28, skip 2sc, starting from the 3rd ch, (1dc, 1dcinc) * 13, turn (39dc) 

2: 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 12, 1sc (52sc), turn 

3: 1dec, 1sc, 1hdc, 44dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 1dec, turn (50) 

4: 1dec, 1sc, 1hdc, 42dc, hdc, sc, 1dec, turn (48) 

Cut the yarn, now we’ll make the bottom part of the cape. 

Count 12 stitches from the right and attach the yarn to the 13th stitch. 

5: 24sc, turn 

6: 24dc, turn 

7: 24sc, turn 

8: 24dc, turn 

9: (2sc, 1inc) * 8, turn (32sc) 

10: 32dc, turn 

11: 32sc, turn 

12: 32dc, turn 

13: 32sc, turn 

14: 32dc, turn 

15: 32sc, turn 

16: 32dc, turn 

17: 32sc, turn 

18: (3dc, 1dcinc) * 8, turn (40dc) 

19: 40sc, turn 

20: 40dc, turn 

21: 40sc, turn 

22: 40dc, turn 

23: 40sc, turn 

24: 40dc, turn 

25: 40sc, turn 

26: 40dc, turn 

27: 40sc, turn 

28: 40dc, turn 

29: 40sc, turn 

30: 40dc, turn 

Now, single crochet around the cape. 

Make “W”s at the corners and finish. 

HEART 

1: MR 4sc, 2ch, 4sc, cut the yarn, tighten, and hide the yarn. 

Attach the hearts to the collar clasp and stitch them to the cape. 

***If you’re making a SHORT-SKIRTED ANNA, make the cape in THESE DIMENSIONS. 

CONGRATULATIONS! 

YOU’VE FINISHED PRINCESS ANNA. 

The post Free Princess Anna Amigurumi Pattern: Craft Your Own Magical Companion! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials and Tools:

Hook 2.5. Among Us will be about 11 cm tall. 

Yarn: yellow, brown, blue, a little red, and black. 

Abbreviations:

ch – chain 

sl st – slip stitch 

sc – single crochet 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

BLO – back loop only 

(..)*6 – repeat the instructions in parentheses 6 times 

Do not follow the marker, do not align 

PATTERN

Legs-Torso 

Yellow color 

Legs 2 pcs 

1: 6 in MR (magic ring) 6 

2: inc in each st around 12 

3: (1 sc, inc)*6 18 

4: BLO 18 sc 18 

5-9: 18 sc 

For the second leg, do not cut the yarn, continue crocheting the body 

10: 4 ch, sc 18 around the first leg, 1 sc in the first st of the leg, 4 sc in ch, 1 sc in the last st, sc 18, 4 sc in ch 46 

11: 18 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 22 sc 48 

12-29: 48 sc 

Stuff 

30: Crochet an incomplete row to shift the marker 14 sc (you may have a different number of stitches), place the marker exactly to the side 

31: 2 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec, 2 sc 44 

32: 2 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 2 sc 40 

33: 2 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 2 sc 36 

34: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*6 30 

Stuff 

35: (3 sc, dec)*6 24 

36: (1 sc, dec, 1 sc)*6 18 

37: (1 sc, dec)*6 12 

38: 6 dec 6 

Visor 

Blue or gray color 

1: 6 ch 

2: inc, 3 sc, 4 sc in 1 st, 3 sc, inc 14 

3: 2 inc, 3 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc 22 

4: 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 5 sc, inc, 2 sc 26 

5: 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 4 sc (white), 4 sc, inc, 2 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 1 sc 30 

6: 1 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc, 3 sc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 1 sc 38 

7: 38 sc 38 

Switch to black color 

8: 3 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 3 sc 34 

Leave yarn for sewing, sew, add a little stuffing 

Cheeks 2 pcs 

Red color 

7 sc in MR, sl st 

Leave yarn for sewing 

Ears 2 pcs 

Brown color 

1: 6 sc in MR 

2: 6 sc 6 

3: (inc, 2 sc)*2 8 

4: (3 sc, inc)*2 10 

5: (2 sc, inc, 2 sc)*2 12 

6: 12 sc 12 

Yellow color 

7-10: 12 sc 12 

11: (2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*2 10 

Stuff a little 

12: 10 sc 10 

13: (3 sc, dec)*2 8 

14: 8 sc, sl st, leave yarn for sewing 8 

Backpack 

Yellow color 

1: 4 ch, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook 

2: 3 sc in 1 st, 1 sc, 6 sc in 1 st, 1 sc, 3 sc in 1 st 14 

Brown color 

3: 1 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 1 sc 22 

Yellow color 

4: 2 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 4 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 5 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 2 sc 30 

5: 3 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 7 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 6 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 7 sc, 3 sc in 1 st, 3 sc 38 

Yellow color 

6: 4 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 4 sc 42 

7: 3 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc 34 

8: 34 sc, sl st 

Leave yarn for sewing, add a little stuffing, sew to the back 

Tail 

Crochet in rows with a turning chain 

Brown color 

1: Leave a tail for sewing, 8 ch, starting from the 2nd ch from the hook 

2-5: 7 sc 

Yellow color 

6: 4 sc, ch, turn 

7: 4 sc, 5 ch, turn 

8: From the 2nd ch from the hook, 8 sc, ch, turn 

9-10: 8 sc, ch, turn 

11: 8 sc, 8 ch, turn 

12: From the 2nd ch from the hook, 12 sc, ch, turn 

13-18: 12 sc, ch, turn 

Hide the tails 

Sew all parts, see photo. 

The post Among Us Pikachu Amigurumi Free Pattern: Craft Your Favorite Crossover Character! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

MATERIALS AND TOOLS: 

To crochet the pumpkin, you will need: 

3 colors (orange, brown, green) of any yarn and a suitable hook. 

Toy stuffing. 

5mm safety eyes. 

Super glue. 

Plastic for the sole. 

Embroidery needle. 

Sewing pins. 

I used cotton yarn 200m/50g, hook size 1.3. The height of the finished toy from bottom to top (excluding the hat) is 14 cm. The thicker your yarn, the larger your toy will be. 

The pumpkin sits only. The legs bend at the knees. 

Difficulty level: intermediate. Beginners may find it challenging to make the stockings and hat with relief stitches. It’s better to replace this pattern with a simpler one. 

ABBREVIATIONS: 

MR – magic ring 

ch – chain 

sc – single crochet 

hdc – half double crochet 

dc – double crochet 

sl st – slip stitch 

inc – increase (2 sc in one stitch) 

dec – decrease (sc two stitches together) 

PATTERN

HEAD: 

Crochet with orange color in a spiral, without a chain. 

Row 1: 8 sc in MR 

Row 2: Inc x 8 times = 16 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 8 times = 24 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 times = 32 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 times = 40 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 times = 48 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 times = 56 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 times = 64 

Rows 9-19: 64 sc (11 straight rows) 

You can crochet more rows for added height. 

Row 20: (6 sc, dec) x 8 times = 56 

Row 21: 56 sc 

Row 22: (5 sc, dec) x 8 times = 48 

Row 23: 48 sc 

Row 24: (4 sc, dec) x 8 times = 40 

Row 25: (3 sc, dec) x 8 times = 32 

Row 26: (2 sc, dec) x 8 times = 24 

Stuff firmly. 

Row 27: (1 sc, dec) x 8 times = 16 

Row 28: Dec x 8 times = 8 

Cut the yarn leaving a long tail. Thread the tail into a needle. Divide the pumpkin in half. Pass the needle through each MR from top to bottom. Then divide each half into quarters. Pull the tail each time. Clear sections appear. Divide each quarter in half. There are a total of 8 sections. 

LEGS (2 pieces): 

Start with green color. 

Ch 4, 2 hdc in the 3rd ch from the hook, 1 hdc in the next ch, 4 hdc in the last ch, 2 hdc in the next st along the back of the chain, 1 hdc in the next st, sl st to join. (11) 

Continue in a spiral, without a chain. The first hdc of the second row is made in the first hdc of the first row. 

Row 2: Inc, 2 hdc, (1 hdc, inc) x 4 times, 2 hdc, (1 hdc, inc) x 2 times = 18 

Row 3: 1 hdc, inc, 2 hdc, (1 hdc, inc) x 4 times, 3 hdc, inc, 2 hdc = 24 

Outline the sole. Make a template from paper, then cut out 2 soles from plastic. 

Row 4: Work 24 hdc in the back loops only. 

Row 5: 24 hdc 

Row 6: 5 hdc, (2 hdc, dec) x 3 times, 7 hdc = 21 

Row 7: 5 hdc, (1 hdc, dec) x 3 times, 7 hdc = 18 

Insert the sole. 

Row 8: 5 hdc, dec x 3 times, 7 hdc = 15 

Stuff the shoe. If you crochet tightly enough, you don’t need to stuff the leg further. 

Switch to brown color. 

Row 9: Work dec x 5 times in the back loops only = 10 

Rows 10-19: 10 hdc (10 rows) 

Row 20: Dec x 5 times = 5 

Row 21: Inc x 5 times = 10 

Rows 22-32: 10 hdc (12 rows) 

Row 33: Work 4 hdc through both sides. 

Leave a tail for sewing the leg. 

STOCKINGS (2 pieces): 

Crochet with orange color. Chain 17, join with a slip stitch to form a ring. 

At the beginning of each row, instead of the first slip stitch, make 2 chain stitches. At the end of each row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch. 

Row 1: 16 sc 

Rows 2-5: (1 front post sc, 1 back post sc) repeat 18 times 

Finish with 1 slip stitch. Cut the yarn and secure. 

Put the finished stockings on the legs from top to bottom. 

Switch to brown color. 

Row 1: 5 sc in MR 

Row 2: Inc x 5 times = 10 

Row 3: 10 sc 

Row 4: Dec x 5 times = 5 

Switch to orange color. 

Rows 5-20: 5 sc 

Leave a tail for sewing. 

ARMS (2 pieces): 

WIG 

Crochet with brown color in a spiral, without a chain. 

Row 1: 8 sc in MR 

Row 2: Inc x 8 times = 16 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 8 times = 24 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 8 times = 32 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x 8 times = 40 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x 8 times = 48 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 8 times = 56 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x 8 times = 64 

Then crochet curls of different lengths. A total of 32 curls. 

Row 9: (Ch 5, sc in the chain, attach 1 sc to the base, 1 sc more) x repeat 13 times Note: One curl takes up 2 sc of the wig (circle). 

(Ch 12, 10 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 1 time; 

(Ch 11, 9 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 5 times; 

(Ch 9, 7 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 1 time; 

(Ch 7, 5 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 1 time; 

(Ch 5, 3 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 4 times; 

(Ch 7, 5 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 1 time; 

(Ch 9, 7 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 1 time; 

(Ch 11, 9 sc in the chain, 2 sc in the base) x 5 times. 

Leave a long tail for sewing. 

HAT: 

Crochet the hat with a ribbed pattern using front post single crochets and back post single crochets. 

Chain 37. Leave a long tail for sewing the hat to the head immediately. 

Join to form a ring with 1 slip stitch. 

At the beginning of each row, make 2 chain stitches instead of the first slip stitch. At the end of each row, finish with 1 slip stitch in the 2nd chain stitch. 

Row 1: 36 sc 

Rows 2-6: (1 front post sc, 1 back post sc) repeat 18 times 

Row 7: Dec x 18 times = 18 sc 

Dec in the hat pattern = work 2 sc together. Make 2 chain stitches instead of the first slip stitch = 1 loop on the hook. Then make a yarn over, insert the hook from the inside out into the front loop of the next stitch, pull up a loop, pull the loop through the first loop on the hook. This is how you make the first decrease at the beginning of the row. 

Dec from 2 sc = 1 loop on the hook. Make a yarn over, insert the hook from the inside out behind the post of the next sc from the front, pull up a loop, insert the hook from the inside out behind the post of the next sc from the back, pull up a loop, pull the loop through all 3 loops on the hook. 

Row 8: 18 front post single crochets 

Row 9: Dec x 9 times = 9 sc 

Make decreases in row 9 using front post single crochets. That is, insert the hook behind the post of each sc only from the front. 

Rows 10-11: 9 front post single crochets 

Cut the yarn. Gather and tighten the loops at the top. 

The hat is ready. 

ASSEMBLY: 

Attach the wig to the head. Attach the first pin to the wig MR and to the head MR. Continue in a circle. It’s very difficult to sew the wig to the head. You’ll need a long thread and patience. 

Sew the wig around in about the 5-6th row through the stitch. Make one stitch 1 sc high and pull through the head to the 3rd and so on. Then sew through the middle, into the MR. Pull the needle out at the last row of the wig. Sew around the perimeter. I left the curls free. They are mischievous, sticking out in different directions. You can neatly curl each long curl at the face. 

Glue on the eyes. Optionally, embroider eyelashes, mouth. 

Sew on the legs and arms. Sew the hat around the 5-6th row of the wig. 

Decorate with beads, buttons. The pumpkin is ready! 

The post Pumpkin Amigurumi Free Pattern: Crochet Your Own Festive Fall Decor! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Abbreviations

MR Magic Ring 

Ch Chain 

Sl st slip stitch 

Sc single crochet 

Hdc half double crochet 

Dc double crochet 

Tr (or trc) triple (or treble) crochet 

Inc increase (Add one or more stitches.) 

Dec decrease (Eliminate one or more stitches.) 

Turn Turn your work so you can work back for the next row. 

Join Join two stitches together; usually done by working a slip stitch in the top of the next stitch. 

Rep repeat (Do it again.) 

Ingredients needed for spiderman recipe, 

The red and blue amugurumi rope used in the description of the spider-man rope snowball brand is used. You can use a 12 mm eye for the symbol on the chest, white fine felt for the eye, ethamine, sewing thread, crochet, stitch markers, wire for the neck to stand upright or something else. These are the materials that we will use bead fiber to fill in, friends. Now, let’s move on to our recipe. 

PATTERN

Head 

We start our Spider-Man recipe with head-making. 

1) Row: Magic circle into 6 sc . 

2) Row: in every loop inc. Total 12 sc. 

3) Row: 1 sc, 1 inc total 18 sc 

4) Row: 2 sc, 1 inc total 24 sc 

5) Row: 3 sc, 1 inc total 30 sc 

6) Row: 4 sc, 1 inc total 36 sc 

7) Row: 5 sc, 1 inc total 42 sc 

8) Row: 6 sc, 1 inc total 48 sc 

9) Row: 7 sc, 1 inc total 54 sc 

10) Row: 8 sc, 1 inc total 60 sc 

11…19) Rows: 60 sc. 

20) Row: 8 sc, 1 dec total 54 sc 

21) Row: 7 sc, 1 dec total 48 sc 

22) Row: 6 sc, 1 dec total 42 sc 

23) Row: 5 sc, 1 dec total 36 sc 

24) Row: 4 sc, 1 dec total 30 sc 

25) Row: 3 sc, 1 dec total 24 sc 

26) Row: 2 sc, 1 dec total 18 sc 

27) Row: 1 sc, 1 dec total 12 sc 

Head knitting is over, don’t forget to fill it with staple fibers arkadaşlar Cut the rope a little longer and finish it. 

Foot (Bot) 

In this section, we go to the foot section of the spiderman recipe, that is, the construction of boots. 

We start by pulling 11 chains. 

1) Row: 9 sc, 2 inc, 9 sc total 20 sc it will be, 

move to the next row. 

2) Row: 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc 

3) Row: 2 inc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 9 sc, 2 inc, 2 inc, 

4) Row: 34 sc. 

5) Row: 34 sc 

6) Row: 34 sc 

7) Row: 34 sc 

8) Row: 34 sc 

9) Row: 13 sc, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 13 sc 

10) Row: 9 sc, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 9 sc 

11) Row: 7 sc, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 1 dec, 7 sc 

12) Row: We’re going to the blue rope. Knit this sequence in the form of BLO 19 sc. 

13) Row: 8 sc, 1 dec, 1 dec, 7 sc 

14) Row: 17 sc 

15) Row: 8 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc start to fill the tile with fiber while it becomes difficult to fill as the leg narrows. 

16) Row: with 37) Row: Knit 16 sc in these rows included. 

Note: To give a blue scottish boot shape that we have changed from red rope to blue, weave 8 loops by giving the loops from the front. 

The other leg will be knitted in the same way. Do not break the rope after the second leg knitting will be done joining the two legs. 

Arm Making 

Spiderman recipe with arm. 

We are making magic ring with red rope. 

1) Row: 6 sc . 

2) Row: in every loop inc. total 12 sc 

3) Row: 2 sc, inc 16sc. 

4) Row: 16 sc 

5) Row: 16 sc 

6) Row: 5 sc, 1 popcorn will be made for finger shape (will sink 5 times in the same hole), 10 sc. total 16 sc. 

7) Row: 16 sc 

8) Row: 16 sc 

9) Row: 2 sc, dec total 12sc. 

10) Row: 4 sc, dec, total 10 sc. 

Fill with fiber. 

11 … 15) Rows: 10 sc. 

16) Row: Switch to blue rope. 16 … 24) Rows: Knit up to 10 sc. Continue filling the lever from time to time. 

25) Row: Switch to red rope. Knit 10 sc. 

26) Row: 10 sc 

27) Row: 10 sc 

28) Row: 10 sc 

29) Row: knit in the form of 3 sc, dec. Knit 8 sc and finish the handle. Knit the other arm in the same way. 

Body 

  The arms are over, it’s time for the body of the spider man recipe. 

1) Row: Connect the legs with sc by pulling 1 chain. 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc total will be 38 sc. 

2) Row: Knit a total of 40 sc by increasing one on the sides. 

3) Row: 8) Row: s knit 40 sc. 

9) Row: switch to red color. Weave a total of 40x by sinking one hole in each hole. 

10) Row: Make one dec on each side. total 38 sc. 

11) Row: 38 sc. 

12) Row: knit 36 sc by making one dec on each side. 

13) Row: 36 sc 

14) Row: 36 sc 

15) Row: knit 34 sc by making a dec on the sides. 

16) Row: 34 sc 

17) Row: 34 sc 

18) Row: weave 32 sc by making one dec on each side. 

19) Row: 32 sc 

20) Row: knit 30 sc by making one dec on each side. 

21) Row: 30 sc 

22) Row: weave 28 sc by making one dec on the sides. 

23) Row: 28 sc 

24) Row: Add both arms to the sides with the fingers in the same direction, knitting the arm with 3 scsi to the body. Then continue to knit straight knitting so that the other side of the number of the other arm in the same way. So make sure that the arm is attached proportionally to the body. The total will be 28 sc. 

25) Row: 28 sc 

26) Row: make one dec with the arms on top. total 26 sc. 

27) Row: When we get there, we’ll put a 12-mm eye on the spider emblem. 5) Row: Counting from the top. 

28) Row: knit a total of 20 sc, subtracting 2 sc, dec. 

29) Row: Start filling with fiber. Meanwhile, we make a total of 15 sc by making 2 sc, dec, dec. 

30) Row: 3 sc, dec, weave a total of 12sc. 

31) Row: 12 sc 

32) Row: 12 sc 

Finish the body by cutting the rope a little longer to sew. before joining the body with the head, do not forget to put a thick cable so that the head does not move left or right. 

The post Free Spiderman Amigurumi Pattern for Marvel Fans – Crochet Your Hero! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

ABBREVIATIONS: 

ch – chain 

sc – single crochet 

sl st – slip stitch 

inc – single crochet increase (sc in indicated stitch 2 times) 

dec – single crochet decrease (sc next 2 stitches together) 

(…)*… – repeat instruction in brackets … times 

MATERIAL LIST: 

Crochet hook size 1.75 mm (No. 0) 

Yarn, size that fits crochet hook: cream, brown (I use Patons Grace – 100% cotton) 

Polyester stuffing 

Plastic safety eyes 8 mm 

Nylon cord 

Keychain ring with chain 

Scissors 

Needle 

Work in spiral. Do not join, slip stitch or turn unless otherwise stated in the pattern. 

After sign “=“ I am putting total number of stitches in a row. In brackets the total number of rows that are knitted without changing anything. 

“If you will use same yarn like mine, the size of your toy will be approximately 7 cm (2 3/4 in).” 

PATTERN

HEAD (INNER PART): 

Cut the nylon cording 20 cm long. Tie a knot. 

Cream colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc into it = 6 

Pull the nylon cord through the magic ring and tighten the magic ring. 

2. 6 inc = 12 

3. (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 

4. (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*6 = 24 

5. (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

6. 30 sc = 30 

7. (2 sc, inc, 2 sc)*6 = 36 

8-10. 36 sc = 36 (3 rows) 

11. 14 sc, 2 ch, skip 2 stitches, 4 sc, 2 ch, skip 2 stitches, 14 sc = 36 

12-15. 36 sc = 36 (4 rows) 

Put the safety eyes. 

16. (2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*6 = 30 

Start stuffing the head and continue stuffing as you progress. 

17. (dec, 3 sc)*6 = 24 

18. (dec, 1 sc)*8 = 16 

19. 8 dec = 8 

Fasten off. Leave a tail long enough to close the hole. Use the tapestry needle and sew only the front loops. 

Embroider nose and eyebrows using brown colour. 

Embroider smile using red or pink colour. 

HEAD (OUTER PART): 

Brown colour. 

5 ch, starting from the second chain from the hook. 

1. 3 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, 2 sc, inc = 10 

2. inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc = 16 

3. 1 sc, inc, 2 sc, (inc, 1 sc)*3, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 = 22 

4. 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*3, 2 sc, (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*2 = 28 

5. inc, 3 sc, 2 sc, (3 sc, inc)*3, 2 sc, (inc, 3 sc)*2 = 34 

6. 2 sc, inc, 2 sc, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc, 2 sc)*2, 2 sc, (2 sc, inc, 2 sc)*2 = 40 

7. (19 sc, inc)*2 = 42 

8-14. 42 sc = 42 (7 rows) 

Do not cut the yarn. 

Insert the inner part into the outer part. 

Pull out the nylon cord. I did it between 10 and 11 rows 

15. (2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*7 = 35 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the outer part to the inner part. 

BODY: 

Brown colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc into it = 6 

2. 6 inc = 12 

3. (1 sc, inc)*6 = 18 

4. (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*6 = 24 

5. (3 sc, inc)*6 = 30 

6-11. 30 sc = 30 (6 rows) 

12. (4 sc, dec, 4 sc)*3 = 27 

13. 27 sc = 27 

Start stuffing the body and continue stuffing as you progress. 

14. (dec, 7 sc)*3 = 24 

15. 24 sc = 24 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the body to the head. 

ARMS (2 PIECES): 

Brown colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc into it = 6 

2. 6 inc = 12 

3-6. 12 sc = 12 (4 rows) 

Start stuffing the arms and continue stuffing as you progress. 

7. (2 sc, dec, 2 sc)*2 = 10 

8. (dec, 3 sc)*2 = 8 

Fold piece in half and sew connecting both sides 3 sc. 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the arms to the body. 

LEGS (2 PIECES): 

Brown colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc onto it = 6 

2. 6 inc = 12 

3. (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*4 = 16 

4-5. 16 sc = 16 (2 rows) 

6. (1 sc, dec, 1 sc)*4 = 12 

Stuff the legs. 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the legs to the body. 

TAIL: 

Brown colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc into it = 6 

2. 6 inc = 12 

3-4. 12 sc = 12 (2 rows) 

5. (dec, 1 sc)*4 = 8 

Stuff the tail. 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the tail to the body. 

EARS (2 PIECES): 

Brown colour. 

6 ch, starting from the second chain from the hook. 

1. 4 sc, 3 sc in last chain, 3 sc, inc = 12 

2. inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc = 18 

3. 1 sc, inc, 3 sc (inc, 1 sc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc)*2 = 24 

4. 1 sc, inc, 1 sc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc, 1 sc)*2 =30 

5-9. 30 sc = 30 (5 rows) 

10. (dec, 3 sc)*6 = 24 

11. (1 sc, dec, 1 sc)*6 = 18 + 1 sc 

Fold piece in half and sew connecting both sides 8 sl st. 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the ears to the head. 

BELLY: 

Cream colour. 

1. Magic ring and 6 sc into it = 6 

2. 6 inc = 12 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. 

Sew the belly to the body. 

Our Cheburashka keychain is ready! 

The post Amigurumi Cheburashka Keychain Free Pattern – Craft Your Own Cute Crochet Companion! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Winnie the Pooh, the honey-loving bear of the Hundred Acre Wood, has captured hearts for generations. Now, you can bring this iconic character to life with your crochet skills. Our step-by-step instructions and amigurumi free pattern will help you craft a charming Pooh Bear that’s sure to put a smile on your face.

Whether you’re a seasoned crocheter or just starting out, our pattern is designed to be accessible to all skill levels. So grab your yarn, crochet hooks, and let’s embark on a heartwarming journey to create your very own Winnie the Pooh amigurumi. Let’s get started!

Abbreviations: 

CA – Crochet Ring 

ch – chain 

inc – increase 

dec – decrease 

sc – single crochet 

PATTERN

Arms (not too tight): 

Use the main color yarn. 

Row 1: 6 sc in the CA. 

Row 2: (1, inc)*3 (9) – change yarn color. 

Sweater: 

Rows 3-12: 9 sc. 

Row 13: Fold in half and crochet 4 sc together. 

Legs, Tail, and Body (stuff as you go): 

Row 1: 6 sc in the CA. 

Row 2: 6 inc (12). 

Rows 3-8: 12 sc. 

Do not cut the yarn after completing the second leg; connect it to the first leg. 

Row 9: 6, 12 ch, 12 along the first leg, 12 along the chains, 6 along the second leg (48). 

Rows 10-14: 48 sc – change yarn color. 

Row 15: (6, dec)* (42). 

Rows 16-18: 42 sc. 

Row 19: (5, dec)*6 (36). 

Rows 20-22: 36 sc. 

Row 23: (4, dec)*6 (30). 

Rows 24-26: 30 sc. 

Row 27: (3, dec)*6 (24). 

Row 28: 13, 4 sc in loops for arms, 7 (24). 

Row 29: 1, 4 sc in loops for arms, 19 (24). 

Rows 30-31: 24 sc. Finish crochet and leave yarn for sewing. 

Head (use main color yarn): 

Row 1: 21 ch – with 2 loops we start – 19, 3 inc, 18, inc (42). 

Row 2: inc, 18, 3 inc, 18, 2 inc (48). 

Row 3: 48 sc. 

Row 4: 1, inc, 18, (1, inc)*3, 18, (1, inc)*2 (54). 

Rows 5-19: 54 sc. 

Row 20: (1, dec)*2, 18, (1, dec)*3, 18, 1, dec (48). 

Row 21: (1, dec)*2, 15, (1, dec)*3, 15, 1, dec (42). 

Row 22: (1, dec)*2, 12, (1, dec)*3, 12, 1, dec (36). 

Row 23: (dec, 1)*2, 9, (dec, 1)*3, 9, dec, 1 (30). 

Finish crocheting here; leave the yarn and sew the remaining opening. 

Muzzle (use main color yarn): 

Row 1: 6 sc in the CA. 

Row 2: 6 inc (12). 

Row 3: (1, inc)*6 (18). 

Row 4: (2, inc)*6 (24). 

Leave yarn for sewing. 

Ears (use main color yarn): 

Row 1: 6 sc in the CA. 

Row 2: 6 inc (12). 

Row 3: (1, inc)*6 (18). 

Rows 4-6: 18 sc. 

Row 7: (1, dec)*6. 

Leave yarn for sewing. 

Sew on the eyes, muzzle, and ears. Decorate the face as you like or follow my example. 

The post Winnie the Pooh Amigurumi Free Pattern: Crochet Your Own Adorable Pooh Bear appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Necessary materials:

 15 mm black eyes

 White and black felt

 2.20 mm hook

 Bead wire

 Needle for sewing

 Flesh-colored yarn 200 g

 White yarn 100 g

 Mustard yarn 50 g

 Brown yarn 50 g

 Black floss for mouth, eyebrows and nose

Abbreviations:

CH – chain

SC – single crochet

İNC – increase (two columns are tied in one loop)

DEC – decrease (two columns are connected together)

SL-ST – slip-stitch

HDC – half double crochet

DC – double crochet

PATTERN @emeyamigurumi

Head: flesh-colored

1) 6sc into magic ring

2) (inc) * 6 (12)

3) (sc, inc) * 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)

9) (7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)

10) (8sc, inc) * 6 (60)

11) (9 sc, inc) * 6 (66)

12) (10 sc, inc) * 6 (72)

13) (11 sc, inc) * 6 (78)

14) (12 sc, inc) * 6 (84)

15) (13 sc, inc) * 6 (90)

16-18) 90 sc (3 rows)

19) (14 sc, inc) * 6 (96)

20-31) 96 sc (12 rows)

32) 26sc, 2ch, 1sc skip, 14sc, 2 ch, 1sc

skip 54sc (94)

33) 26sc, 1sc in the chain, 14sc, 1sc in the chain,

54sc (96)

34-35) 96sc (2 rows)

36) 16sc, (inc, sc) * 7, 9sc, (inc, sc) * 7, 43sc (110))

37-42) 110sc (6 rows)

Now we will make eyes out of felt and insert them into the holes that we

left in my head

43) 16sc, (dec, sc) * 7, 9sc, (dec, sc) * 7, 43sc (96)

44) (14sc, dec) * 6 (90)

45) (13 sc, dec) * 6 (84)

46) (12 sc, dec) * 6 (78)

47) (11 sc, dec) * 6 (72)

48) (10 sc, dec) * 6 (66)

49) (9 sc, dec) * 6 (60)

50) (8 sc, dec) * 6 (54)

51) (7sc, dec) * 6 (48)

52) (6 sc, dec) * 6 (42)

53) (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)

54) (4 sc, dec) * 6 (30)

55) (3 sc, dec) * 6 (24)

56) (2 sc, dec) * 6 (18)

Cut the thread !!

Face design:

Make small eye drops. See photo

Let’s make the mouth, nose and eyebrows a black floss, as in the picture

Insert the wire into the head)

Ears: 2 pcs. skin color:

1) 8sc into magic ring

2) (inc) * 8 (16)

3-5) 16sc (3 rows)

Leave the thread for sewing

We sew ears on the head !!!

Wig: white

1) 6sc into magic ring

2) (inc) * 6 (12)

3) (sc, inc) * 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)

9) (7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)

10) (8 sc, inc) * 6 (60)

11) (9 sc, inc) * 6 (66)

12) (10 sc, inc) * 6 (72)

13) (11 sc, inc) * 6 (78)

14) (12 sc, inc) * 6 (84)

15) (13 sc, inc) * 6 (90)

16) (14 sc, inc) * 6 (96)

17-28) 96 sc (12 rows)

29) 25sc, 13 ch with 2 hook loops – 2sc, 4 HDC, 6DC, skip 1sc

attach to the next. Column sl-st, 1sc, 15 ch, with 2 loops from the hook – 4sc, 5HDC,

5 DC, skip 1sc to attach to the trace. Column sl-st, 5sc, 15ch with 2 loops from

hook – 4sc, 5HDC, 5 DC, skip 1sc attach to the trace. post sl-st, 13

ch, with 2 loops from the hook -2sc, 4 HDC, 6DC, skip 1sc attach to

track. post sl-st, 11 HDC, 10ch, with 2 loops from the hook -2sc, 4HDC, 6DC,

skip 1sc attach to trace. Column sl-st, 1sc, 17 ch, with 2 loops from

hooks – 2sc, 4HDC, 5DC, 5st. with 2 / nak., skip 2sc attach to the trace.

column sl-st, 1sc, 16 ch, with 2 loops from the hook – 3sc, 4HDC, 4DC, 3 tbsp. with 2 / nak,

skip 2sc attach to trace. Column sl-st, 1sc, 16 ch, with 2 loops from

hooks – 3sc, 4HDC, 4DC, 3 tbsp. with 2 / nk, skip 2sc to attach to the trace.

SC-st, 11HDC, 13 ch, with 2 hook loops – 2sc, 4 HDC, 6DC, skip

1sc attach to the trace. post sl-st, 15 ch, with 2 loops from the hook – 4sc, 5HDC,

5DC, skip 1sc to attach to the trace. Column sl-st, 5sc, 15ch, with 2 loops from

hook- 4sc, 5HDC, 5DC, skip 1sc attach to the trace. post sl-st, 13

ch, with 2 loops from the hook – 2sc, 4HDC, 6DC, skip 1sc attach to

track. column sl-st, 7sc

Leave a long thread for sewing !!

I added photos of how to make bangs to the next page

After you made the wig, let’s fix the hair like

shown in the last two images, and sew the locks of bangs,

so that they are fixed on the head

Hands:

Fingers: flesh-colored

Middle finger: 2 pcs

1) 6sc into magic ring

2-5) 6sc (5 rows)

Ring finger and index finger: 4 pcs.

1) 6sc into magic ring

2-4) 6sc (3 rows)

Little finger and thumb: 4 pcs.

1) 6sc into magic ring

2-3) 6sc (2 rows)

Do not cut the thread from the little finger!

Finger joint:

1) By little finger 3sc, by nameless 3sc, by average 3sc, index 6sc, average

3sc, nameless 3sc, pinky 3sc (24)

2-4) 24 sc (3 rows)

5) right hand: 11sc, 6sc, 13sc (30)

5) left hand: 13sc, 6sc, 11sc (30)

6) 30sc

7) (8sc, dec) * 3 (27)

8) 27sc

9) (7sc, dec) * 3 (24)

10) 24sc

11) (4sc, dec) * 3 (20)

12) 6sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 6sc (18)

13) 18sl-st

14) 14-15) 18 sc

16) (5sc, inc) * 3 (21)

17-28) 21 sc (12 rows)

29) (5sc, dec) * 3 (18)

30) (4sc, dec) * 3 (15)

31) 15sl-st

32) (4sc, inc) * 3 (18)

33) (5sc, inc) * 3 (21)

34-38) 21 sc (5 rows)

39) (5sc, dec) * 3 (18)

40) 18 sc

Cut the thread!

Legs: skin color

Toes:

Thumb: 2 pcs

1) 7sc into magic ring

2-4) 7sc (3 rows)

The rest of the fingers -6 pcs.

1) 6sc into magic ring

2-3) 6 sc (2 rows)

Little toes:

1) 5sc into magic ring

2) 5sc

Do not cut the thread !!

Finger Joint: Left Leg

1) pinky 2sc, nameless 3sc, middle 3sc, index 3sc, large

finger 7sc, index 3sc, middle 3sc, nameless 3sc, little finger 3sc (30)

2-5) 30 sc (4 rows)

6) dec, 12sc, dec, 14sc (28)

7-8) 28sc

9) 12sc, 2dec, 12sc (26)

10) dec, 24sc (25)

11-12) 25sc

13) 11sc, 2dec, 10sc (23)

14) dec, 21sc (22)

15-16) 22sc

17) 10sc, inc, 11sc (23)

18) 23sc

19) sc, 1ch, turn, 1sc skip, 11sc (11)

20) ch, 1sc skip, 8sc, dec (9)

21) ch, 1sc skip, 6sc, dec (7)

22) ch, 1sc skip, 4sc, dec (5)

23) ch, 1sc skip, 2sc, dec (3)

24) ch, 3sc, on the side of 4sc, in front of

feet 13sc, on the side 4sc (24)

25) 7sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 4sc (22) Type !!

26) 7sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc (19)

28) 19sl-st

27) 9sc, 2dec, 6sc (17)

29) 17 sc

30) 9sc, 3inc, 5sc (20)

31-32) 20sc (2 rows)

33) sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 5sc, 1inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc (24)

34-47) 24 sc (14 rows)

48) 6sc, 7cc, 5sc, 6inc (30)

49-52) 30 sc (4 rows)

53) 18sc, 6dec (24)

54) 24sc

55) 8sc, inc, sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 2sc, inc, sc (28)

56-66) 28 sc (11 rows)

67) 10sc

Now we knit the right leg, do not cut the thread !!

Right leg:

Finger joint:

1) Pinky 3sc, nameless 3sc, middle 3sc, index 3sc, large 7sc,

middle 3sc, nameless 3sc,

pinky 2sc (30)

2-5) 30sc (4 rows)

6) 14sc, dec, 12sc, dec (28x)

7-8) 28sc (2 rows)

9) 13sc, 2dec, 11sc (26)

10) dec, 24sc (25)

11-12) 25sc (2 rows)

13) 12sc, 2dec, 9sc (23)

14) dec, 21sc (22)

15-16) 22 sc (2 rows)

17) 11sc, inc, 10sc (23)

18) 23 sc

19) 14sc, 1ch, 11sc (11)

20) ch, 1sc skip, 8sc, dec (9)

21) ch, 1sc skip, 6sc, dec (7)

22) ch, 1sc skip, 4sc, dec (5)

23) ch, 1sc skip, 2sc, dec (3)

24) ch, 3sc, on the side of 4sc, in the forefoot of 13sc, on the side of 4sc (24)

25) 7sc, dec, 9sc, dec, 4sc (22) Stuff !!

26) 7sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 3sc (19)

27) 9sc, 2dec, 6sc (17)

28) 17sl-st

29) 17 sc

30) 9sc, 3inc, 5sc (20)

31-32) 20 sc (2 rows)

33) sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 5sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 4sc (24)

34-47) 24 sc (14 rows)

48) 6sc, 7cc, 4sc, 6inc, sc (30)

49-52) 30 sc (4 rows)

53) 17sc, 6dec, sc (24)

54) 24sc

55) 7sc, inc, sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 2sc, inc, 2sc (28)

56-66) 28 sc (11 rows)

67) 20sc, if necessary, knit several columns to

reach the middle of the inside of the leg)

The connection of the legs and torso:

68) 6 ch attach the left leg, 28sc 6sc in the chain,

along the right leg 28sc, 6sc along the chain (68)

Put a marker !!!

69) 10sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 30sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 16sc (72)

70-77) 72 sc (8 rows)

78) (10sc, dec) * 6 (66)

79-80) 66sc (2 rows)

81) (9sc, dec) * 6 (60)

82) 60 sc

83) 88sc, dec) * 6 (54)

84-90) 54sc (7 rows)

91) (7sc, dec) * 6 (48)

92-108) 48 sc (16 rows)

109) 15sc, left hand 3sc (at the same time loops of the arm and body),

21sc, right hand 3sc (at the same time loops of the arm and body),

6sc (48)

110) 15sc, 15sc left hand, 21 sc, 15sc right hand, 6sc (72)

111-112) 73 sc (2 rows)

113) 16sc, 7dec on the left hand, 21sc, 7dec on the right hand, 7sc (58)

114) 14sc, 5dec, 19sc, 5dec, 5sc (48)

115) (6sc, dec) * 6 (42)

116) (sc, dec) * 14 (28)

117) (2sc, dec) * 7 (21)

118) 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, sc (18)

119-122) 18 sc (4 rows)

Finish !!!!

Bone: White

1) 6sc into magic ring

2) (inc) * 6 (12)

3-4) 12 sc

Cut the thread

Let’s knit another piece the exact same way! After you tied the second

part, we will continue without cutting the thread!

5) connect both parts and knit 24sc (24)

6) 24 sc

7) (2sc, dec) * 6 (18)

8) (sc, dec) * 6 (12)

9-14) 12 sc (6 rows)

We cut the thread !!! Crammed

We knit the same part and then sew both parts

connect 2 parts

after stitching, it looks like this

Strap: Brown

1) 11 ch, with 3 hook loops – 9HDC

2-15) ch, 9 HDC (14 rows)

16) ch, skip 1sc, 2HDC, decHDC, 2HDC, decHDC (6)

17) ch, 2HDC, decHDC, 2HDC (5)

18-27) ch, 5HDC (10 rows)

28) ch, 2HDC, incHDC, 2HDC (6)

29) ch, incHDC, 2HDC, incHDC, 2HDC, incHDC (9)

30-43) ch, 9 HDC (14 rows)

Trim thread

Bone Holder: Brown

1) 6 ch, with 3 hook loops – 4HDC

2-8) ch, 4 HDC (7 rows)

To finish

To fix the bone on the suspension, first sew the front part.

Then put the bone under the piece and stitch it on the other side.

front end. We do not cut the remaining thread and sew the belt

front of the skirt.

See photo!!

Skirt: mustard color

1) 66 ch join in a circle sl-st

2) 1ch, 66sc (66)

3-4) 1ch, 66sc (2 rows)

5) (10sc, inc) * 6 (72)

6-7) 72sc (2 rows)

8) (11sc, inc) * 6 (78)

9-10) 78 sc (2 rows)

11) (12sc, inc) * 6 (84)

12-17) 84sc (6 rows)

Skirt bottom

18) 8sc, ch, skip 1sc, 5sc, dec (8)

19) ch, turn, skip 1sc, 5sc, dec (6)

20) ch, turn, skip 1sc, 3sc, dec (4)

21) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, sc, dec (2)

22) ch, turn, dec (1)

finish !!

2. Wedge:

1) fasten the thread next to 1 wedge, knit 10sc

1) ch, turn, 10 sc

3) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 7sc, dec (8)

4) ch, turn, skip 1sc, 5sc, dec (6)

5) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 3sc, dec (4)

6) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, sc, dec (2)

7) ch, turn, dec (1)

Finish !!

8) ch, turn, skip 1sc, 3sc, dec (4)

9) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 1sc, dec (2)

10) ch, turn, dec (1)

to finish

7. Wedge:

1) fasten the thread next to the 6th wedge, knit 6sc

2) 2-3) ch, turn, 6sc

4) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 3sc, dec (4)

5) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, sc, dec (2)

6) ch, turn, dec (1)

to finish

8. Wedge:

2) fasten the thread next to 1 wedge, knit 10sc

2) ch, turn, 10 sc

3) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 7sc, dec (8)

4) ch, turn, skip 1sc, 5sc, dec (6)

5) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, 3sc, dec (4)

6) ch, rotate, skip 1sc, sc, dec (2)

7) ch, turn, dec (1)

Finish !!

Tie the edges of the wedges sc.

At the corners, knit 3sc into 1 so that the edges do not bend.

Cut black felt

triangles of different sizes and

glue to the skirt

Hat: mustard color

1) 8DC into magic ring

2) (incDC) * 8 (16)

3) (DC, incDC) * 8 (24)

4) (2 DC, incDC) * 8 (32)

5) (3 DC, incDC) * 8 (40)

6) (4 DC, incDC) * 8 (48)

7) (5 DC, incDC) * 8 (56)

8) (6 DC, incDC) * 8 (64)

9) (7 DC, incDC) * 8 (72)

10) (8 DC, incDC) * 8 (80)

11-13) 80sc (3 rows)

14) (8 DC, UBDC) * 8 (72)

15) (7 DC, UBDC) * 8 (64)

16) ch, 64sc

17) (7sc, inc) * 8 (72)

18-19) 72sc (2 rows)

To finish

Visor caps:

attach the thread to the front of the cap and knit 22sc

1) ch, turn, 20sc, dec (21)

2)) ch, turn, 19sc, dec (20)

3)) ch, turn, 18sc, dec (19)

4)) ch, turn, 17sc, dec (18)

5)) ch, turn, 16sc, dec (17)

6)) ch, turn, 15sc, dec (16)

7)) ch, turn, skip 1st,

13sc, dec (14)

Tie a sc visor and make a pompom out of white yarn,

sew it in the center of the cap.

Cut the small triangles of black felt and glue them to the hat, like on a picture.

Club

1) 6sc into magic ring

2) (inc) * 6 (12)

3) (sc, inc) * 6 (18)

4) (2 sc, inc) * 6 (24)

5) (3 sc, inc) * 6 (30)

6) (4 sc, inc) * 6 (36)

7) (5 sc, inc) * 6 (42)

8) (6 sc, inc) * 6 (48)

9) (7 sc, inc) * 6 (54)

10) (8 sc, inc) * 6 (60)

11-17) 60 sc (7 rows)

18) (8 sc, dec) * 6 (54)

19-21) 54 sc (3 rows)

(22) (7 sc, dec) * 6 (48)

Crammed

23) 48 sc

24) (6 sc, dec) * 6 (42)

25-26) 42 sc (2 rows)

27) (5 sc, dec) * 6 (36)

28-29) 36sc (2 rows)

30) (4sc, dec) * 6 (30)

31-33) 30 sc (3 rows)

34) (3sc, dec) * 6 (24)

35-57) 24sc (23 rows)

58) (2sc, dec) * 6 (18)

59) (sc, dec) * 6 (12)

60) (dec) * 6 (6)

Finish !!!

The post Bambam Amigurumi Free Crochet Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Abbreviations: 

SC: Single crochet 

INC: Increase 

DEC: decrease 

W: 3 single crochet in the same loop 

DC: Double crochet 

HDC: half double crochet 

sl-st: slip stitch 

BLO: knitting only the back teeth of the loop 

AMIGURUMI MASHA PATTERN 

Head 

Start with the 6SC magic ring 

1) 6INC = 12sc 

2) (1SC, 1INC) * 6 = 18 

3) (2sc, 1INC) * 6 = 24SC 

4) (3SC, 1INC) * 6 = 30SC 

5) (4SC, 1INC) * 6 = 36SC 

6) (5SC, 1INC) * 6 = 42SC 

7) -14) 42sc 

15) 6SC, 1W, 1INC, 1W, 1INC, 6SC, 1W, 1INC, 1W, 1INC, 22SC = 54SC 

16-18) 54sc 

19) 4SC, 7DEC, 3SC, 7DEC, 18SC = 39SC 

20) 1DEC, (4SC, 1DEC) * 6, 1SC = 32SC 

21) (3SC, 1DEC) * 6, 3SC = 26SC 

22) (2SC, 1DEC) * to end of row 

23) (1SC, 1DEC) * to end of row 

* An oval piece is cut from felt or eva sponge and placed under the eye. 

The eyes are placed in the 12th row, 6 holes apart. 

* Eyelashes are processed with fine thread. 

It creates a mouth pit with skin color and the mouth is embroidered with pink thread. 

Hair is made with yellow thin thread. 

The fabric is cut in a square shape, a headscarf is made and tied. 

* Nose is embroidered with skin color thread. (For this, we thread the thread into the needle and prick it in appropriate places and twist it several times.) 

Body 

1) 24 ch is drawn, combined with sl-st and a ring is made. 

2) 24SC 

3) (3SC, 1INC) = 30SC 

4) 30SC 5-12) 30SC 

Foot-Leg 

It starts with purple color. 

1) 9 ch 

2) 7SC, 1W, 7SC 

3) 1INC, 4SC, 7INC, 5SC, 1INC 

4) 5SC, 1HDC, 13DC, 1HDC, 6SC 

5) As BLO: 8SC (purple), 10SC (yellow), 8SC (purple) = 26SC 

6) With purple: 5SC, 1DEC, 1SC; With yellow: 3SC, 1DEC, 3SC, 1DEC; With purple: 6SC, 1DEC, 1SC 

7) 4SC, 1DEC, 2SC, 1DEC, 2SC, 1DEC, 2SC, 1DEC, 3SC 

8) 5SC, 4DEC, 4SC Change to skin color 

9) As BLO: 5SC, 1DEC, 6SC = 12sc 

10-22) 12sc Switches to White 

23-26) 12sc 

Joining is continued from the 2nd leg, the whole perimeter is knitted: 24SC (3sc, 1INC) = 30SC Joined with the trunk, 30SC 

Arms 

With skin color: start with the 6SC magic ring. 

1) 6INC = 12sc 

2) 1popcorn, 11sc 

3) (1DEC, 11SC) 

4) (5sc, 1DEC, 3SC) 

Switches to white: 

5) 10SC 6) BLO 10SC 

7) (1SC, 1INC) * until the end of the row 

8-16) 16SC 17) (1SC, 1DEC) * until end of row 

* Single crochet with purple is applied to the loops that are exposed where the BLO is made, and cuffs are made. 

* In the 9th row, 1 row of sl-st is made with white to the loops that are exposed where the BLO is made. 

Dress 

With purple color: 

1) 30SC loop is removed from the middle of the 4th and 5th rows of the trunk. (You can get help from the picture.) 

2) 30sc, 2 ch, turn 

3) 30DC, 2 ch, turn 

4) 1 increment is made from the beginning, the end and the middle; 33DC 

5) BLO 33DC 

6-13) 33DC 

With white: 

14) 33DC 

With purple: 

15) 33SC 

Clothes Hangers 

1) 6 ch, turn from the 3rd chain; 

2-7) 4DC, 2 ch, turn finished and sewn to the dress. 

The post Masha Amigurumi Doll Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

MATERIALS 

• CROCHET 

3.0MM 

• SCISSORS 

• TAPESTRY NEEDLE 

• MERCERIZED COTTON THREAD (BLACK, RED, GRAY, NATURAL AND BROWN) 100G / 170M (1OOG EACH APPROX) 

• BLACK EMBROIDERY THREAD FOR EYELASHES 1M 

• SILICONED FLEECE 

• 8 MM SAFETY EYES 

• WIRE OR PLASTIC BALLOON HOLDER TO SUPPORT THE NECK 

ABBREVATİONS 

DEC decrease (SC 2 points together) 

INC increase (SC in the indicated stitch 2 times) 

SC single crochet

CH Chain 

SL-ST slip stitch

HDC half double crochet

DC double crochet

PATTERN

LEGS – 2pcs 

(FIRMLY FILL WHILE YOU KNIT!) 

START WITH BLACK THREAD 

1- CH6, IN THE SECOND CHAIN FROM THE CROCHET, DO 1SC, 1SC IN THE NEXT 3CHAINS, 3SC IN THE LAST CHAIN, ROTATE THE WORK AND DO 3SC, 2SC IN THE LAST CHAIN = 12SC 

2- INC AT THE NEXT POINT, 3SC, INC X3, 3SC, INC X2 = 18SC 

3- SC AT THE FOLLOWING POINT, INC, 4SC, INC, 3SC, INC, 4SC, INC, 2SC = 22 

4- (BLO) 1 SC IN EACH POINT = 22 

5- IN BOTH LOOPES; 1SC AT EACH POINT = 22 

6- 4SC, DEC X6, 6SC = 16SC 

7- 4SC, DEC X4, 4SC = 12SC 

8- 4SC, DEC X2, 4SC = 10SC 

9 TO 14- (5 ROUNDS) 1SC IN EACH POINT = 10SC 

15- (4SC, INC) X2 = 12SC 

CHANGE THE THREAD TO A RED COLOR 

16- BLO (1SC, 1INC) X6 = 18SC 

17 AND 18- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 18SC 

19- (4SC, DEC) X3 = 15SC 

20 AND 21- 1SC AT EACH POINT = 15SC 

22- (3SC, DEC) X3 = 12SC 

23 TO 30- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 12SC 

CLOSE THE JOB FOR THE FIRST LEG! 

31- ONLY IN THE SECOND LEG 1SC IN EACH POINT = 12SC 

FOR THE SECOND LEG, DO NOT CLOSE THE JOB! DO 6SC MORE (MAYBE YOU WILL NEED MORE OR LESS SC! IT IS IMPORTANT TO GET TO THE OTHER CORNER OF THE WORK. LOOK AT THE PHOTOS BELOW! 

I finished my second leg here! 

And I have to do 6sc more to get to this point! Do as many as you need to get to the same point! 

BODY (FIRMLY FILL AS YOU GO) 

RED THREAD 

WHEN YOU FINISH THE SECOND LEG, DO 3CH AND INSERT THE CROCHET WITH A SC IN THE FIRST LEG AS THE PICTURE ABOVE. 

ATTENTION NOW! 

1- DO MORE 11SC ON THE FIRST LEG, 3SC ON THE BACK OF THE CHAINS, 12SC ON THE SECOND LEG, 3SC ON THE FRONT OF THE CHAINS, 12SC ON THE FIRST LEG = 30SC 

PUT THE MARKER AT THE NEXT POINT. 

2 – 8- DO 1 SC IN EACH POINT = 30 SC 

9- (8SC, DEC) X3 = 27SC 

10- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 27SC 

11- (7SC, DEC) X3 = 24SC 

12- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 24SC 

13- (6SC, DEC) X3 = 21SC 

14- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 21SC 

15- (5SC, DEC) X3 = 18SC 

THIS IS WHERE THE SCORE MARKER SHOULD STAY 

16- LOOK AT THE IMAGE BELOW! NOW WE MUST PUT A MARKER RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BODY AND MAKE HOW MANY SC YOU NEED TO GET TO THIS POINT. FOR ME IT WAS 12SC NOW CHANGE THE THREAD TO A GRAY COLOR, MAKE 1SC IN BLO, AND CHANGE AGAIN TO RED COLOR AND FINISH THE ROUND = 18SC 

17- 4SC, DEC, 4SC, DEC, CHANGE THE COLOR TO A GRAY THREAD (IF YOU NEED, YOU CAN DO MORE OR LESS SC UNTIL YOU REACH 1SC BEFORE THE GRAY SC BELOW. THE MOST IMPORTANT IS THAT THE FINISHED ROUND HAS ONLY 15SC ), IN BLO DO 3SC, CHANGE TO RED WIRE, SC, DEC = 15SC 

18- 9SC, CHANGE TO A GRAY WIRE, IN BLO 5SC, CHANGE TO A RED WIRE, 1SC = 15SC 

CHANGE THE COLOR TO A NATURAL THREAD 

19- BLO (3SC, DEC) X3 = 12SC 

CHANGE THE COLOR TO A BLACK THREAD 

20- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 12SC 

CHANGE THE COLOR TO A NATURAL THREAD 

21- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 12SC 

HEAD 

NATURAL THREAD 

1- (SC, INC) X6 X18SC 

2- (2SC, INC) X6 X24SC 

3- (3SC, INC) X6 S30SC 

4- (4SC, INC) X6 S36SC 

5- (5SC, INC) X6 X42SC 

6- (6SC, INC) X6 X48SC 

MAKE A FEW MORE POINTS UNTIL YOU GET TO THE MIDDLE OF THE BACK OF THE HEAD AND PUT THE MARKER THERE. 

PAUSE WITH THE HEAD 

IT’S TIME TO DEVELOP A NECK DETAIL! YOU DO NOT NEED TO CUT THE NATURAL THREAD IN THE BLOCK ON THE GRAY PART OF THE CHEST AND AROUND THE NECK, WITH A RED THREAD, INSERT THE CROCHET AS YOU CAN LOOK IN THE PHOTO BELOW, AND MAKE 14SC. 

3SC RISING 8SC AROUND THE NECK 3SC RISING 

CLOSE THE JOB AND HIDE THE RED THREAD 

BACK TO HEAD 

7- 15- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 48SC (9 ROUNDS) 

START HERE AND END HERE 

IN THE 14TH ROUND, DO THE LASHES AND PUT ON THE SAFETY EYES, 

SEPARATED BY 8CADENAS. 

TAKE ADVANTAGE TO PUT WHAT YOU ARE GOING TO USE SO THAT THE NECK STAYS 

STOPPED. I USED APPROX 15CM PLASTIC SUPPORT FOR BALLOONS. 

FIRMLY FILL BODY AND COLLAR! 

16- (6SC, DEC) X 6 = 42SC 

17- (5SC, DEC) X6 = 36SC 

18- (4SC, DEC) X6 = 30SC 

19- (3SC, DEC) X6 = 24SC 

20- (2SC, DEC) X6 = 18SC 

21- (SC, DEC) X6 = 12SC 

22- (SC, DEC) X4 = 8SC 

CLOSE THE JOB, LEAVING A TAIL OF THREAD TO CLOSE THE PART! 

ARMS – MAKE 2 (FILL IN HANDS ONLY) 

NATURAL WIRE AND RED WIRE 

START WITH A NAURAL THREAD 

1- 6SC IN THE MAGIC RING = 6SC 

2- 6INC = 12SC 

3- 1SC IN EACH CHAINS = 12SC 

4- DEC, 10SC = 11SC 

5- DEC, 9SC = 10SC 

6- DEC, 8SC = 9SC 

7- DEC, 7SC = 8SC 

CHANGE TO A RED WIRE 

8- BLO 1SC IN EACH POINT = 8SC 

9 THROUGH 19- 1SC IN EACH POINT = 8SC 

FOLD YOUR ARMS IN HALF AND DO 4SC IN 2 OPPOSITE POINTS TOGETHER 

HAIR 

IN BROWN THREAD 

WE WILL WORK IN ROWS 

1- CH21, ROTATE 

2- SC BLOCK IN THE SECOND CHAIN FROM CROCHET, SC IN THE NEXT 19 POINTS, CH1, ROTATE = 20SC 

3 – 36- BLO SC IN EACH POINT, 1CH AND ROTATE = 20SC 

37 -52- BLO SC IN THE NEXT 12POINTS, 1CH1 AND ROTATE = 12SC 

CLOSE THE SIDE PART OF THE HAIR BY DOING 12SC IN THE STARTING CHAIN AND IN THE LAST ROW TOGETHER AS TAUGHT IN THE PHOTOS BELOW. LEAVE A VERY LONG TAIL OF THREAD TO CLOSE THE HOLE AT THE TOP. 

CLOSE THE UPPER HOLE, PASSING THE UPHOLSTERY NEEDLE AS INDICATED IN THE PHOTO AND THEN PULL IT VERY HARD 

TO CLOSE THE SIDE OF THE HAIR 

HOOD 

RED THREAD 

LET’S WORK IN ROWS 

1- 10CH, IN THE 3RD CH FROM CROCHET, MAKE A DC, THEN TWO DC IN THE FOLLOWING 6 CHAINS = 14DC 

2 -26- MAKE 1DC IN EACH 14DC CHAINS 

27- 7 DECREASES OF DC = 7DC 

DO NOT CLOSE THE HOOD, FOLD THE PIECE IN HALF AND MAKE 26SC ON BOTH SIDES TO CLOSE THE BACK, FINISH AND HIDE THE THREAD! 

ON THE FRONT, 3CAD, DC IN THE SAME HOLE, 2DC IN EACH HOLE UP TO THE LAST HOLE. FINISH WITH 3CH. CLOSE LEAVING A TAIL OF THREAD TO SEW THE HOOD TO THE MONKEY. 

LOOK AT THE PHOTOS! 

TO CLOSE THE TOP HOLE 

ASSEMBLY 

* SEW THE HAIR ON THE HEAD 

* SEW THE ARMS ON THE SIDE OF THE BODY 

* SEW THE HOOD ON THE MONKEY. WE HAVE 14 POINTS IN THE PART OF 

UNDER THE HOOD AND WE ALSO HAVE 14 POINTS ON THE NECK DETAIL! SEW THEM TO ANOTHER. 

THE LAST ROW 

FOLD THE HOOD AND MAKE 26SC ON BOTH SIDES TO CLOSE THE BACK IN THE FRONT, 3CH, PAIN THE SAME HOLE, 2DCEN EACH HOLE UNTIL THE LAST. 

FINISH WITH 

MONKEY DETAILS 

GRAY THREAD 

* ZIPPER: INSERT THE CROCHET WITH THE GRAY THREAD AT THE POINT JUST BELOW THE FIRST GRAY POINT AND MAKE A LINE WITH 9SC. 

CLOSE AND HIDE THE THREAD. 

* SIDE ZIPPER: INSERT THE CROCHET WITH A GRAY THREAD ON THE RIGHT SIDE OF THE MONKEY AND KNIT 2SC DIAGONAL. 

METAL MACHINE BELT 

BLACK WIRE 

MAKE 40 CHAINS AND CLOSE ON THE FIRST CHAIN. 

CLOSE IT NOW IN THE CURP! 

BORROW A TOY WEAPON FROM YOUR CHILDREN AND SEW IT IN YOUR HAND! 

LIST! 

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