MATERIALS 

-CATANIA TR263 TEN (Body) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2469 FUCHSIA 

(CLOAK AND EMBROIDERY) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2477 SKY BLUE (SKIRT) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2482 TURQUOISE 

(BLOUSE AND EMBROIDERY) 

-GAZZAL GIZA 2457 BLACK 

(TOP DRESS AND SHOES) 

-CATANIA 00383 CINNAMON 

(BLOUSE EDGE AND HAIR WIG) 

-1 PIECE SYNTHETIC HAIR ORANGE 

-1.75 HOOK 

-10 MM BLUE LOCK EYES 

-2 PIECES SMALL BUTTONS 

-1.5 MM COPPER WIRE 

-1 PIECE COLLAR HOOK 

(TO JOIN THE CLOAK COLLAR) 

Abbreviations 

mr: magic ring 

sc: single crochet 

inc: increase 

dec: decrease 

W: 3sc in the same stitch 

M: 3sc together decrease 

ch: chain 

sl st: slip stitch 

Dc: Double crochet 

Dcinc: Double crochet increase 

Hdc: Half double crochet 

Hdcinc: Half double crochet increase 

Tr: Triple crochet 

Bpsc: Back post single crochet 

Blo: Back loop only 

Flo: Front loop only 

*: Number of repetitions 

ARM 

With 1.75 hook; 

1: Ch 6, 6 sc in the second chain from the hook 

2: 6 inc, 12 sc 

3-4: 12 sc (2 rows) 

5: 5 sc, 1 4-popcorn stitch, 6 sc, 12 sc 

6: 12 sc 

7: 4 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, 10 sc 

Switch to light blue yarn 

8: 4 sc, 2 sl st, 4 sc, 10 sc 

9: 4 sc, 2 sc in the front loop of sl st, 4 sc, 10 sc 

10-27: 10 sc (18 rows) Finish 

***DO NOT STUFF WITH FIBER. WE WILL ONLY USE WIRE FOR ASSEMBLY TO THE BODY. 

FOOT 

With 1.75 hook; 

1: Ch 7, turn, 5 sc, 1 W, 4 sc, 1 inc, 14 sc 

2-8: 14 sc 

9: Turn, 7 sc, turn, 6 sc, turn 

10: 6 sc, turn 

11: 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, turn 

12: 4 sc, we will now crochet around it 

13: 3 sc along the edge, 8 sl st forward, 3 sc along the edge, place a marker here 

14: 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc (in the front loop of sl st), 1 dec, 2 sc, 14 sc 

15: 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 12 sc 

***PLACE THE WIRE IN THE BASE. 

16-20: 12 sc (5 rows) 

21: 1 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 13 sc 

22: 13 sc 

23: 2 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 14 sc 

24: 14 sc 

25: 3 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc, 15 sc 

26: 3 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 16 sc 

27: 16 sc 

28: 4 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 17 sc 

29: 17 sc 

30: 4 sc, 1 inc, 12 sc, 18 sc 

31-34: 18 sc (4 rows) 

35: 3 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 18 sc 

36-37: 18 sc (2 rows) 

38: 4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, 3 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc 

39: 18 sc 

40: 1 inc, 8 sc, 1 inc, 8 sc, 20 sc 

41-53: 20 sc (13 rows) 

Cut the wire on the first leg after 3 rows. 

Crochet +13 sc on the leg, ch 2, cut the yarn, we will make leg joining. 

***SEE THE PICTURES ON THE NEXT PAGE. 

-DO NOT OVERSTUFF THE UPPER PART OF THE FOOT, KEEP IT FLAT. FILL THE HEEL PART NICELY WITH FIBER. 

-INCREASES WILL BE AT THE BACK, PAY ATTENTION. 

-WHILE CROCHETING, ADJUST THE STITCHES WITH YOUR HANDS SO THAT THE STARTING POINT DOESN’T SHIFT. 

-STUFF THE FIBER EVERY 3-4 ROWS. 

CUT THE WIRE TO THE SIZE OF 30 CM. CURL THE ENDS ACCORDING TO THE BASE, TAPE WITH ELECTRICAL TAPE, SEE THE PICTURE ON THE NEXT PAGE. ** 

JOINING THE LEGS 

54: 20 sc from one leg, 2 sc on ch, 20 sc from the other leg, 2 sc on ch: 44 sc, place a marker here. 

55-61: 44 sc (7 rows) 

62: 10 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc: 42 sc (decreases will be on the sides) 

63: 42 sc 

64: 10 sc, 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc: 40 sc 

65: 40 sc 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

66: Blo 40 sc 

67: 9 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 9 sc: 38 sc 

68-77: 38 sc (10 rows) 

Now we will make arm joining. 

ARM JOINING 

78: 9 sc, 4 sc by picking up from the inside of the arm and body, 15 sc, 4 sc by picking up from the inside of the arm and body, 6 sc: 38 sc 

79: 9 sc, 6 sc remaining on the outside of the arm, 15 sc, 6 sc remaining on the outside of the arm, 6 sc: 42 sc 

80: 8 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc: 38 sc 

81: 38 sc 

82: 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc: 32 sc 

83: 1 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 3 dec, 4 sc: 24 sc 

84: (2 sc, 1 dec) * 6: 18 sc 

Switch to beige yarn 

85: (blo 1 sc, 1 dec) * 6: 12 sc 

86-90: 12 sc (5 rows) 

**FOR THE 82ND ROW, ATTACH THE BLUE YARN TO THE FRONT AND MIDDLE LOOP. 

CROCHET 18 SC, TURN 

CROCHET 18 SC, TURN 

1 DEC, 14 SC, 1 DEC END. 

SKIRT 

Attach the sky blue yarn to the front loop of the 63rd row. 

1: 40 sc, sl st (Ch 1 at the end of each row) 

2: (3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 40 sc 

3: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 48 sc 

4: (2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

5: (5 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

6: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

7: (6 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

8: (3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

9: (7 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

10: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 80 sc 

11: (8 sc, blo 2 sc) (24 rows) 

12: (4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc 

13-37: (9 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc (25 rows) 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

35: 2 sc, insert into the sc from one row below (34th row) in sky blue, 

1 hdc, dc next to it (34th row), insert into the sc from the sky blue row of the 33rd row, 

1 tr, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, 

1 hdc, 2 sc from the start, 2 sc to the blo: Apply the same process to the entire row (See the picture) finish. 

Make the embroideries shown in the picture with pink and turquoise yarn in single layers. 

SHORT SKIRT 

Attach the sky blue yarn to the front loop of the 63rd row. 

1: 40 sc, sl st (Ch 1 at the end of each row) 

2: (3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 40 sc 

3: (1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 48 sc 

4: (2 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

5: (5 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 56 sc 

6: (2 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

7: (6 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 64 sc 

8: (3 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

9: (7 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 72 sc 

10: (3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 80 sc 

11: (8 sc, blo 2 sc) (24 rows) 

12: (4 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc 

13-24: (9 sc, blo 2 sc) * 8: 88 sc (12 rows) 

Switch to turquoise yarn 

35: 2 sc, insert into the sc from one row below (34th row) in sky blue, 

1 hdc, dc next to it (34th row), insert into the sc from the sky blue row of the 33rd row, 

1 tr, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, dc (sky blue) of the 34th row, 

1 hdc, 2 sc from the start, 2 sc to the blo: Apply the same process to the entire row (See the picture) finish. 

Make the embroideries shown in the picture with pink and turquoise yarn in single layers. 

VEST 

1: Ch 55, turn, skip 7 sc, 8 ch (buttonhole): 48 sc 

***Measure the vest against the body to ensure it’s not too loose due to hand and yarn differences. 

2-6: 48 sc 

7: Ch 7, turn (2nd buttonhole): 48 sc 

Finish. 

Now we will make the front chest part. 

Turn with the buttonhole facing to the right. And count 16 stitches forward and attach our black yarn to the 17th stitch. 

1: 8 sc, turn 

2: 1 dec, 6 sc: 7 sc, turn 

3: 5 sc, 1 dec: 6 sc, turn 

4: 1 dec, 4 sc: 5 sc, finish, continue to the vest strap, turn 

5: 2 sc, turn (turn at the end of each row without chaining) 

6-17: 2 sc finish. 

Now we’ll do the left side,  turn it over, attach the black yarn to the 8th stitch (towards the first piece) 

1: 8 sc, turn 

2: 1 dec, 6 sc: 7 sc, turn 

3: 5 sc, 1 dec: 6 sc, turn 

4: 1 dec, 4 sc: 5 sc finish, 

continue to the vest strap, turn 

5: 2 sc, turn (turn at the end of each row without chaining) 

6-17: 2 sc finish. 

Now let’s do the bottom triangle. 

Turn the chest part upside down. Skip 16 stitches, attach black yarn to the 17th stitch. 

1: 15 sc, turn 

2: 1 sl st, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 hdc, 1 dc, 1 tr, 1 dc, 1 hdc, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sl st finish. 

With gold yarn, 

Attach the yarn from the top with the buttonhole on the right. 

Pass sc through all edges. 

When you get to the bottom triangle part, 

make 1 sc, 1 ch, make 1 sc at the bottom, then continue sc all the way. 

Finish at the buttonhole. As there is a buttonhole, we do not make gold there. 

HEAD 

1: MR 6sc 

2: 6inc (12sc) 

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18sc) 

4: 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 5, 1sc (24sc) 

5: (3sc, 1inc) * 6 (30sc) 

6: 2sc, 1inc, (4sc, 1inc) * 5, 2sc (36sc) 

7: (5sc, 1inc) * 6 (42sc) 

8: 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc) * 5, 3sc (48sc) 

9: (7sc, 1inc) * 6 (54sc) 

10: 4sc, 1inc, (8sc, 1inc) * 5, 4sc (60sc) 

11-20: 60 (10 rows) 

21: 24sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 10sc, 1ch, skip 1sc, 24sc (60sc) 

22: 60sc 

23: 21sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 3, 6sc, (1inc, 1sc) * 3, 21sc (66sc) 

24-27: 66sc 

28: (9sc, 1dec) * 6 (60sc) 

29: 4sc, 1dec, (8sc, 1dec) * 5, 4sc (54sc) 

30: (7sc, 1dec) * 6 (48sc) 

31: 3sc, 1dec, (6sc, 1dec) * 5, 3sc (42sc) 

32: (5sc, 1dec) * 6 (36sc) 

33: 2sc, 1dec, (4sc, 1dec) * 5, 2sc (30sc) 

34: (3sc, 1dec) * 6 (24sc) 

35: 12dec (12sc) 

***Attach the eyes to the space on row 21. 

Attach the final eyes. 

***Refer to the next page for images. 

1: MR 8hdc 

***Work the ears 5sc forward from the eyes. (Refer to the image) 

Ear 

FACE SHAPING 

1: For eye shaping; Insert the needle from the back of the eye, go under, come back up, repeat the same for the other eye, hold the eyes and pull. Tie the yarn. Then apply the same process to the upper and lower parts. Shape the eyes. 

2: Next, make the upper line of the eye without separating the black yarn. 

3: Make the eyelashes with a single strand of yarn. Keep them thin. 

4: Make the whites of the eyes with white yarn. 

5: With a single strand of black yarn, make a line under the eye and create eyelashes from the line. 

6: Work the nose under the eye with 3sc. 

7: Add one more layer of white yarn to the eyes for clarity. 

Image 5 

WIG 

*** Do not knit too tightly, it should fit on the wig’s head without force. 

1: MR 6sc (Do not tighten the center of MR, leave it open as we’ll place the hair inside later.) 

2: BLO 6inc (12sc) 

3: (1sc, 1inc) * 6 (18sc) 

4: BLO 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 5, 1sc (24sc) 

5: (3sc, 1inc) * 6 (30sc) 

6: BLO 2sc, 1inc, (4sc, 1inc) * 5, 2sc (36sc) 

7: (5sc, 1inc) * 6 (42sc) 

8: BLO 3sc, 1inc, (6sc, 1inc) * 5, 3sc (48sc) 

9: (7sc, 1inc) * 6 (54sc) 

10: BLO 4sc, 1inc, (8sc, 1inc) * 5, 4sc (60sc) 

11-12: 60 (2 rows) 

— Attach the wig to the head. Using a thin yarn in wig color, stitch the hair from one loop of the wig, and one strand of hair, respectively. When you reach the top, leave a bit of hair. Cut the hair, roll it, and secure it by stitching. Then, at the top point, secure it by stitching with yarn to the open center of the wig. You can also use synthetic yarn to add hair instead of pre-made hair. 

HAIR ALTERNATIVE 

With synthetic yarn or any yarn; 

1: First, make a chain in the length of the top, attach hair strands to the right and left sides of the chain. 

Secure them. 

SHOE 

With a 1.75mm hook and black yarn. 

1: Ch 10, turn, 8sc, 1w, 7sc, 1inc, sl-st 1ch (20sc) 

2: 1inc, 7sc, 3inc, 7sc, 2inc, sl-st, 1ch (26sc) 

3: 1sc, 1inc, 7sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 3, 7sc, (1sc, 1inc) * 2, sl-st 1ch (32sc) 

4: BLO 32sc, sl-st 1ch 

5-7: 32sc 

8: 6sc, 8dec, 10sc (24sc) sl-st 

9: 6sc, 4dec, 10sc (20sc) sl-st 

10: 6sc, 1inc, 3sc, 1inc, 9sc (22sc) 

11-16: 22sc (6 rows) 

17: 6sc, 2hdc, 2dc, 2hdc, 10sc (22) 

***Attach fuchsia yarn to the front loop of the 4th row, do 32sl-st. 

Do not make the sl-st too tight to prevent shrinkage. 

CAPE 

With a 1.75mm hook and fuchsia yarn; knit without cross stitches. 

1: Ch 28, skip 2sc, starting from the 3rd ch, (1dc, 1dcinc) * 13, turn (39dc) 

2: 1sc, 1inc, (2sc, 1inc) * 12, 1sc (52sc), turn 

3: 1dec, 1sc, 1hdc, 44dc, 1hdc, 1sc, 1dec, turn (50) 

4: 1dec, 1sc, 1hdc, 42dc, hdc, sc, 1dec, turn (48) 

Cut the yarn, now we’ll make the bottom part of the cape. 

Count 12 stitches from the right and attach the yarn to the 13th stitch. 

5: 24sc, turn 

6: 24dc, turn 

7: 24sc, turn 

8: 24dc, turn 

9: (2sc, 1inc) * 8, turn (32sc) 

10: 32dc, turn 

11: 32sc, turn 

12: 32dc, turn 

13: 32sc, turn 

14: 32dc, turn 

15: 32sc, turn 

16: 32dc, turn 

17: 32sc, turn 

18: (3dc, 1dcinc) * 8, turn (40dc) 

19: 40sc, turn 

20: 40dc, turn 

21: 40sc, turn 

22: 40dc, turn 

23: 40sc, turn 

24: 40dc, turn 

25: 40sc, turn 

26: 40dc, turn 

27: 40sc, turn 

28: 40dc, turn 

29: 40sc, turn 

30: 40dc, turn 

Now, single crochet around the cape. 

Make “W”s at the corners and finish. 

HEART 

1: MR 4sc, 2ch, 4sc, cut the yarn, tighten, and hide the yarn. 

Attach the hearts to the collar clasp and stitch them to the cape. 

***If you’re making a SHORT-SKIRTED ANNA, make the cape in THESE DIMENSIONS. 

CONGRATULATIONS! 

YOU’VE FINISHED PRINCESS ANNA. 

The post Free Princess Anna Amigurumi Pattern: Craft Your Own Magical Companion! appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Amigurumi is a delightful and beloved crochet art form that allows you to fashion charming stuffed toys, and the Tilda Amigurumi Doll pattern is no exception. Whether you’re seeking to expand your crochet repertoire or gift a handmade treasure, this pattern promises a delightful and gratifying project.

Our comprehensive instructions will walk you through the entire process, from crocheting the doll’s body to creating its distinctive outfit and accessories. Regardless of your crochet experience, this pattern offers an enjoyable and rewarding endeavor that culminates in a charming keepsake.

So, gather your crochet hooks, choose your preferred yarn hues, and embark on this whimsical amigurumi adventure. Your handcrafted Tilda Doll is destined to bring whimsy and joy to your crafting odyssey. Let’s embark on this creative crochet journey together, starting today!

Materials: 

–YarnArt “Jeans” (50g/160m) 

Colors: 

07 beige – boots and cowl 

48 sand – tights 

15 blue – sweater 

03 milk – head and hands 

–Nako “Elit Baby” color 6792 (100g/250m) – hat. 

–Crochet hook size 1.9 

–Knitting needles size 2.5 for cowl and size 3.5 for hat 

–2 cotton swabs for neck reinforcement 

–2 pompoms and 3 buttons for cowl decoration 

–Pair of 0.6cm safety eyes 

–Tulle 

–Approximately 30cm of hair for the doll’s hair, 15cm for the bangs 

–Polyfill stuffing 

PATTERN

LEGS 

Stuff tightly after completing the first 14 rows. 

Left leg, using the boot color: 

1 Row: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

2 Row: 6 inc (12) 

3 Row: (sc, inc)*6 (18) 

4 Row: 18 sc in the back loops 

5-7 Row: 18 sc 

8 Row: 6 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc (15) 

9-10 Row: 15 sc 

11 Row: in the FRONT loops: 14 sc, sl st (15) 

Switch to the tights color. 

12 Row: in the back loops of the 10th row, work 15 sc. 

13-21 Row: 15 sc (9 rows) 

22 Row: Work 11 sc (up to the inner thigh), insert a marker into the 12th stitch – this is where we’ll join the legs. Cut the yarn. 

Right leg, using the boot color: 

1 Row: 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

2 Row: (sc, inc)*3 (9) 

3-4 Row: 9 sc (2 rows) 

Switch to the tights color. 

5 Row: 9 sl st in the back loops 

6 Row: 9 sc in the back loops 

7-17 Row: 9 sc (11 rows) 

18 Row: Fold in half, work 4 sc through both sides 

Leave a long tail. Attach to the body. 

ATTACHING HAIR: 

Since the doll will wear a hat, attach the hair in 3 rows not too low (just above the eyes) and at the crown, making it easier to attach the hat later. 

HAT: Knit with two strands of yarn on size 3.5 needles. 

Gauge: 2 stitches per 1 cm. Keep in mind that the pattern stretches well. The doll’s head is 18 cm in circumference. 

Cast on 36 stitches + 2 edge stitches = 38 

1-15 Row: Knit in a 1×1 rib pattern (knit 1, purl 1) 

16 Row: purl, (dec, knit)* to the end of the row, purl 

17 Row: purl 

18 Row: purl, dec (knit 2 together)* to the end of the row, purl 

Cut the yarn, leave a long tail. Thread it through a needle and pass it through all the stitches on the needle. Pull tight and sew it up. Put it on the doll’s head, attaching it not at the very edge of the hat, but about 1 cm below the edge to prevent the hair from splitting into sections. 

COWL: 

Cast on 6 stitches on size 2.5 needles and knit in garter stitch (knit every row) until the desired length to fit snugly around the doll’s torso. Bind off the stitches. Attach pompoms and buttons to the cowl (you can also decorate it with a large flower). Put it on the doll and sew it in place. 

SKIRT: 

Cut tulle into strips about 3-4 cm wide and 15 cm long (make sure the fabric stretches in width, not length). Take the yarn you used for the sweater and tie the tulle strips to it with simple single knots. The more strips you attach, the fuller the skirt will be. Sew the skirt to the body. 

Your doll is now ready. 

The post Free Tilda Doll Amigurumi Pattern: Craft Your Own Charming Crochet Doll appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials and Tools

1. Yarn Pekhorka Lace. Colors: natural, white, mint, bright orange. (You can use any other yarn that is convenient for you).
2. Mouline threads for embroidering the face. Colors: black, pink, blue, brown.
3. Filling material.
4. Copper wire with insulation, 1.5 mm.
5. Adhesive tape on a cotton basis.
6. A piece of plastic for insoles.
7. Crochet hook 1.25.
8. Needles for sewing details and embroidering the face.

When using the specified materials, the doll’s height is 18 cm.

Abbreviations

MC – Magic circle

sc – single crochet

dec – decrease (single crochet two stitches together through the front loops)

inc – increase (two single crochets in one stitch)

hdc – half double crochet

dc – double crochet

sl st – slip stitch ch – chain

PATTERN

Legs 

Work with beige color (natural). 

Make a chain of 6. 

1 Row: In the second chain from the hook, make 4 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, continue on the other side with 3 sc, and then inc. (12) 

2 Row: Inc, 3 sc, 3 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc. (18) 

3 Row: 1 sc, inc, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 3 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2. (24) 

Cut the insole shape. 

4 Row: 24 sc in the back loops. 

5-6 Row: 24 sc. 

1 bias loop 

7 Row: 2 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 6, 2 sc, dec. (17) 

8 Row: 2 sc, 6 dec, 2 sc, inc. (12) 

Insert the insole and a 20-22 cm long wire.  

Add stuffing as you go. 

9-38 Row: 12 sc for 29 rows. 

Cut the yarn for one leg, thread it through the remaining stitches and secure it. Leave the yarn for the other leg. 

Body 

Make a chain 1 as a turning chain. Place a marker in the center of the inside of one leg. 

Join white yarn (for making panties). 

Row 1 (right leg): 6 sc, (inc, 1 sc) x 3, 3 ch, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 6 sc. (33) 

Row 2: 3 sc along the chain, 15 sc along the right leg, 3 sc along the chain, 15 sc along the left leg. (36) 

Join the wire and secure it with adhesive tape. 

Row 3: 36 sc. 

Row 4: 9 sc, dec, 17 sc, dec, 6 sc. (34) 

Row 5: 17 sc, 2 dec, 13 sc. (32) 

Row 6: 9 sc, dec, 14 sc, dec, 5 sc. (30) 

Row 7: 9 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 5 sc. (28) 

Rows 8-9: 28 sc. 

Row 10: 9 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 1 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc. (24) 

(Verification: 1 sc should be in the middle of the back). 

Change the yarn to mint color. Add stuffing as you go. 

Row 11: (2 sc, dec) x 6. (18) 

Row 12: 18 sc in the back loops. 

Rows 13-16: 18 sc. 

Row 17: 7 sc, inc, 8 sc, inc, 1 sc. (20). Increases on the sides. 

Row 18: 20 sc. 

Row 19: 8 sc, inc, 9 sc, inc, 1 sc. (22) 

Rows 20-24: 22 sc. 

Place a marker in the center of the back. Change the yarn to flesh color. Add stuffing as you go. 

Row 25: 4 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (18) – for the back. Decreases on the sides are for transitioning to the shoulders. 

Row 26: 3 sc, 2 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc (14). 

Row 27: 2 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc (10). 

Cut the yarn, secure, and weave in the ends. 

Head 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: 6 inc. (12) 

Row 3: (1 sc, inc) x 6. (18) 

Row 4: (2 sc, inc) x 6. (24) 

Row 5: (3 sc, inc) x 6. (30) 

Row 6: (4 sc, inc) x 6. (36) 

Row 7: (5 sc, inc) x 6. (42) 

Row 8: (6 sc, inc) x 6. (48) 

Rows 9-18: 48 sc. 

Row 19: (4 sc, dec) x 8. (40) 

Row 20: (3 sc, dec) x 8. (32) 

Row 21: (2 sc, dec) x 8. (24) 

Stuff the head. 

Row 22: (1 sc, dec) x 6. (16) 

Row 23: (2 sc, 3 dec) x 2. (10) 

Neck 

Rows 24-25: 10 sc. You can elongate the neck by adding 1-2 more rows. 

Cut the yarn, pull the loops tight, secure, and weave in the ends. You can leave a long end for sewing to the body. 

Arms 

Row 1: 6 sc in MC. 

Row 2: (1 sc, inc) x 3. (9) 

Rows 3-26: 9 sc. 

Insert wire into the arm and add stuffing to the hand. 

Row 27: (1 sc, dec) x 3. (6) 

Cut the yarn, pull the loops tight, secure, and weave in the ends. Leave a long end for sewing to the body. 

Dress 

Rows 2, 4, 5, 7, and 8 begin with 3 ch (counted as 1 dc) and end with a sl st. 

Join mint yarn to the front loop of row 12 (on the side). 

Row 1: 18 dc (36). 

First Ruffle 

Row 2: 36 sl st in the front loops. 

Row 3: In each stitch: 1 sc, 3 ch, 1 sc. 

Cut the yarn, secure, and weave in the ends. 

Second Ruffle 

Join the yarn to the back loop of row 1 (on the side). 

Row 4: 36 sl st in the back loops of row 1. 

Row 5: (2 sl st, 1 hdc in sl st) x 12. (48) – for the front loops. 

Row 6: Same as Row 3. 

Cut the yarn, secure, and weave in the ends. 

Third Ruffle 

Join the yarn to the back loop of row 5 (on the side). 

Row 7: 48 sl st. 

Row 8: (3 sl st, 1 hdc in sl st) x 12. (60) 

Row 9: Same as Row 3. 

Cut the yarn, secure, and weave in the ends. 

Attach the arms to the body. 

Top Ruffle 

Join the yarn to the front loop of row 25 (where the left arm is attached to the body, on the back). 

Row 1: In each stitch of row 25, make 1 sc. There are 6 ch above each arm. 

Row 2: In each stitch, make 1 sl st; above the chains, make 7 sl st. Cut the yarn, secure, and weave in the ends. 

Sew the head to the body, making sure there is enough stuffing in the neck. 

Face Embroidery 

Mark the positions of the eyes, nose, and mouth. 

Embroider the eyes, nose, and mouth. 

Ears 

Make a chain of 2 ch. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, make 5 sc. 

Row 2: 5 sc. 

Cut the yarn, secure, and sew the ears to the head. 

Attach the hair. 

Shoes 

Work with white yarn. 

Make a chain of 7 ch. 

Row 1: In the second chain from the hook, make 5 sc, 3 sc in the last chain, on the other side: 4 sc, inc. (14) 

Row 2: Inc, 4 sc, 3 inc, 4 sc, 2 inc. (20) 

Row 3: 1 sc, inc, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 3, 4 sc, (1 sc, inc) x 2. (26) 

Row 4: 26 sc in the back loops. 

Rows 5-6: 26 sc. 

Row 7: 6 sc, (1 sc, dec) x 4, 6 sc, dec. (21) 

Row 8: 7 sc, 6 ch. Secure the yarn in a way that creates a fastening. 

Your doll is ready. Happy crafting! 

The post Adel Amigurumi Doll Free Pattern | Crochet Doll Tutorial appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

This Amigurumi Doctor Doll free pattern is perfect for those looking to add a touch of medical charm to their amigurumi collection or seeking a unique handmade gift for a healthcare professional. The finished doll is approximately [insert size] and features intricate details like a stethoscope, lab coat, and tiny medical instruments.

To begin, gather your materials, including yarn in various colors (white for the lab coat, blue for scrubs, etc.), a crochet hook, stuffing, and safety eyes. With these in hand, follow our detailed step-by-step instructions to bring your amigurumi doctor to life.

Our pattern offers guidance on creating essential components, such as the doll’s body, limbs, and accessories. You’ll learn how to crochet stitches like single crochet (SC), increase (INC), decrease (DEC), and more. We’ve designed this pattern to be as user-friendly as possible, making it an excellent project for both beginners and experienced crocheters.

Once complete, your Amigurumi Doctor Doll will be ready to join your amigurumi family or brighten someone’s day as a heartfelt gift. Whether displayed in a nursery or placed on a desk, this charming medical doll is sure to bring smiles.

Materials Needed: 

Yarn in beige, dark brown, white, pink, raspberry, and lilac colors (Yarn Art Jeans or Alize Cotton Gold). 

Fine cotton yarn in white, black, and dark brown for the eyes. 

Pink, raspberry, and white yarn for the hair ties. 

And, of course, a good mood! 

PATTERN

HEAD 

Use beige yarn. Stuff the head as you go. 

Row 1: 6 single crochets (SC) into the amigurumi ring. 

Row 2: 6 increases (INC) (12). 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC x 6 (18). 

Row 4: 2 SC, INC x 6 (24). 

Row 5: 3 SC, INC x 6 (30). 

Row 6: 4 SC, INC x 6 (36). 

Row 7: 5 SC, INC x 6 (42). 

Row 8: 6 SC, INC x 6 (48). 

Row 9: 7 SC, INC x 6 (54). 

Row 10: 8 SC, INC x 6 (60). 

Row 11: 9 SC, INC x 6 (66). 

Rows 12-21: 66 SC. 

Row 22: 9 SC, DEC x 6 (60). 

Row 23: 60 SC. 

Row 24: 8 SC, DEC x 6 (54). 

Row 25: 54 SC. 

Row 26: 7 SC, DEC x 6 (48). 

Row 27: 48 SC. 

Row 28: 6 SC, DEC x 6 (42). 

Row 29: 42 SC. 

Row 30: 5 SC, DEC x 6 (36). 

Row 31: 4 SC, DEC x 6 (30). 

Row 32: 3 SC, DEC x 6 (24). 

Row 33: 2 SC, DEC x 6 (18). 

Row 34: 1 SC, DEC x 6 (12). 

Row 35: Decrease stitches (DEC). 

Finish crocheting and cut the thread. 

HAIR 

Use dark brown yarn. Do not stuff. 

Row 1: 6 SC into the amigurumi ring. 

Row 2: 6 INC (12). 

Row 3: 1 SC, INC x 6 (18). 

Row 4: 2 SC, INC x 6 (24). 

Row 5: 3 SC, INC x 6 (30). 

Row 6: 4 SC, INC x 6 (36). 

Row 7: 5 SC, INC x 6 (42). 

Row 8: 6 SC, INC x 6 (48). 

Row 9: 7 SC, INC x 6 (54). 

Row 10: 8 SC, INC x 6 (60). 

Row 11: 9 SC, INC x 6 (66). 

Rows 12-17: 66 SC. 

Now, place a marker and continue crocheting the bangs. The bangs will be crocheted in turning rows: front and back. 

For the first part, crochet 26 SC, 1 chain stitch (CH) to turn, then crochet 26 SC back in the opposite direction. Repeat this pattern for three more rows. You will have a total of 5 rows for the bangs. At the end of the fifth row, crochet along the side with single crochets, and then crochet two slip stitches (SS) as dividers for the two bang sections. 

After the slip stitches, without cutting the thread, continue crocheting the second part of the bangs, which is slightly larger than the first part but also consists of 5 rows: SC, half double crochet (HDC), INC from double crochets (DC) with yarn overs, 3 DC with yarn overs, INC from DC with yarn overs, 3 DC with yarn overs, INC from HDC, HDC, 27 SC. 

The remaining four rows are crocheted with turning rows, using SC stitches, without increases. Each of these four rows should have 41 SC. 

Sew the hair to the head. Sew the back parts of the first and second bang sections together. 

BRAIDS 

Use dark brown yarn to crochet two pieces. Stuff as you go. 

Row 1: 6 SC into the amigurumi ring. 

Row 2: 6 INC (12). 

Rows 3-5: 12 SC. 

Row 6: 6 DEC (6). 

Rows 7-9: 6 SC. 

Row 10: 1 SC, INC x 3 times (9). 

Rows 11-13: 9 SC. 

Row 14: 1 SC, DEC x 3 times (6). 

Row 15: 1 SC, INC x 3 times (9). 

Row 16: 2 SC, INC x 3 times (12). 

Row 17: 12 SC. 

Row 18: 3 SC, INC x 3 times (15). 

Finish crocheting. Cut the thread, leaving a long end for sewing. Attach the braids as shown in the photo. Use pink yarn to embroider hair ties on them. 

HANDS 

Begin with beige yarn. 

Row 1: 6 SC into the amigurumi ring. 

Row 2: 6 INC (12). 

Rows 3-7: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 8-11: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to white. 

Rows 12-13: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 14-15: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to white. 

Rows 16-17: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 18-19: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to white. 

Rows 20-21: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 22-23: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to white. 

Rows 24-25: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 26-27: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to white. 

Rows 28-29: 12 SC. 

Change the yarn color to lilac. 

Rows 30-31: 12 SC. 

Fold the edges together and crochet together with slip stitches (SL ST). 

Do not stuff the hands too tightly, especially towards the top. 

SEW HANDS TO THE BODY 

STAGE #6 

ROBE 

Crochet the robe with white yarn in turning rows (front and back) using extended single crochets (USC) (if you are not familiar with this stitch, you can find tutorials on YouTube). 

Start by chaining 24. 

Begin each row with 2 chain stitches (CH). 

Row 1: 24 USC. 

Row 2: 3 USC, (3 USC into one stitch, denoted as “Inc” from now on), 4 USC, Inc, 6 USC, Inc, 4 USC, Inc, 3 USC. 

Row 3: 4 USC, Inc, 6 USC, Inc, 8 USC, Inc, 6 USC, Inc, 4 USC. 

Row 4: 5 USC, Inc, 8 USC, Inc, 10 USC, Inc, 8 USC, Inc, 5 USC. 

Row 5: 6 USC, Inc, 10 USC, Inc, 12 USC, Inc, 10 USC, Inc, 6 USC. 

Row 6: 7 USC, Inc, 12 USC, Inc, 14 USC, Inc, 12 USC, Inc, 7 USC. 

Row 7: 8 USC, Inc, 14 USC, Inc, 16 USC, Inc, 14 USC, Inc, 8 USC. 

Now, separate a part of the crochet fabric for the sleeves as follows: 

Row 8: 10 USC, skip 16 stitches for one sleeve, 20 USC, skip 16 stitches for the other sleeve, 10 USC. 

You should have 40 USC remaining (this is for the front and back of the robe). 

Rows 9-26: 40 USC. 

Crochet the sleeves in rounds. 

Each sleeve consists of 16 USC. 

Crochet in rounds, connecting the rows with slip stitches (SL ST) at the end. 

The number of rounds will depend on the desired length of the sleeves. 

The post Free Amigurumi Doctor Doll Pattern – Crochet Your Own Cute Medical Toy appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Whether you’re a beginner or an experienced crafter, this pattern is designed to be user-friendly, allowing you to create a wonderful keepsake or gift. The end result will be a precious doll with intricate details, including a cute dress, hat, and even pockets!

So, grab your crochet hook, select your favorite yarn, and follow our instructions to bring Little Doll Sonia to life. With your creative touch, you’ll soon have a beautiful amigurumi doll to cherish or share with someone special. Let’s get started on this fun and rewarding crochet adventure!

What you will need: 

Yarn “Iris” (when using this yarn, the doll will be 14 cm tall), but you can use any similar yarn, thicker or thinner – this will change the size of the toy. The main condition is that all yarn should be of the same thickness, preferably cotton, as other threads will look different. Colors are as shown in the photo, but you can choose your color palette. 

A crochet hook suitable for your yarn (I used a Tulip 1.1 mm hook), for a tighter stitch, you can use a smaller hook. 

A bit of embroidery floss or regular sewing threads in black and red for facial embroidery. 

Yarn for hair – any you like. I used acrylic embroidery thread from the Riolis company, which is also called woolen floss. You can use special doll hair – it depends on your preference and what you have. 

Stuffing material (polyfill, hollowfiber). 

Colored pencils in pink and brown – the softer the pencil, the better, watercolor pencils work well. You can also use dry pastels or blush if needed. 

A needle with a wide eye for sewing the parts together and a finer needle with a sharp tip (I usually use a beading needle). 

Decorative elements – half beads, rhinestones, small buttons, brads (as in my case) – whatever you have. You can also decorate with embroidery. 

I also tinted the dress with white acrylic paint, but this is optional; I just wanted a “worn jeans” effect. 

Abbreviations: 

Sc – single crochet 

Inc – increase 

Dec – decrease 

Hdc – half double crochet 

Ch – chain stitch 

PATTERN

Legs (2 pieces): 

Begin with blue yarn (shoes): 

1st row: 6 sc in magic ring. 

2nd row: 6 inc (12 sc). 

3rd-13th rows: 11 rows of 12 sc each. 

Switch to flesh-colored yarn. 

14th-25th rows: 12 sc in each row. 

Cut the yarn, secure it, and stuff the piece with polyfill. 

Crochet the second leg in the same way, but in the 25th row, before finishing, switch back to blue (you can skip this and continue with flesh-colored yarn, but I do this to distinguish the underwear). 

Join the two legs: Chain 3, join with a sc to the first leg, and crochet in the round: 

26th row: 12 sc (1st leg), 3 sc (in the chain), 12 sc (2nd leg), 3 sc (in the chain) (30 sc). 

27th-31st rows: 30 sc. 

Switch to white yarn (sweater): 

32nd row: 30 sc. 

33rd row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24 sc). 

34th row: 24 sc. 

35th row: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18 sc). 

36th-45th rows: 18 sc. 

Stuff the piece with polyfill evenly. 

46th row: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12 sc). 

Stuff more firmly, cinch the stitches, secure the yarn, and cut it. 

Head: 

1st row: 6 sc in magic ring. 

2nd row: 6 inc (12 sc). 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18 sc). 

4th row: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sc). 

5th row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sc). 

6th row: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sc). 

7th row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42 sc). 

8th-14th rows: 42 sc. 

15th row: (5 sc, dec) x 6 (36 sc). 

16th row: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30 sc). 

17th row: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24 sc). 

18th row: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18 sc). 

19th row: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12 sc). 

Fill the piece tightly and evenly with polyfill, then crochet the neck: 

20th-24th rows: 12 sc. 

Secure the yarn, cut it, leaving a long end for sewing. 

Attach the head to the body using the outermost loops, as shown in the photo. 

Sweater collar: Chain 14 + 2 turning chains, sc in the 3rd chain from the hook and in each chain to the end, a total of 14 sc. Sew it as shown in the photo. 

P.S. I’ll clarify – I always crochet dolls with the wrong side facing out, as you may have noticed. I like it that way because the fabric becomes denser and more uniform, smooth. You can crochet as you find convenient and to your liking!  

It’s a detailed set of instructions for creating an amigurumi doll. Enjoy your crocheting! 

Arms (2 pieces): 

Flesh-colored yarn. 

1st row: 7 sc in magic ring. 

2nd row: 6 sc, inc (8 sc). 

3rd-6th rows: 8 sc. 

Switch to white or a color that matches the sweater. 

7th-8th rows: 8 sc. 

9th row: 7 sc, inc (9 sc). 

10th-23rd rows: 9 sc. 

Cut the yarn, pull the loops tight, and secure it. You can add stuffing if you prefer. In the photo of my doll, the arms are without stuffing as they hold their shape well. You can add a bit of polyfill, but it’s better to leave the upper part free so that the arms don’t stick out to the sides. 

Another detail to note is to compare the arm length with the body, especially if you don’t plan to stuff them. Without stuffing, the piece will look shorter, and you may need to crochet a few extra rows. 

If you plan to have removable clothing, you can sew the arms in place. If you are making a non-removable dress like mine, move on to making the dress before attaching the arms. 

Ears (optional, not visible under the hair): 2 pieces 

6 sc in a magic ring, pull tight but do not close the ring. It forms a semi-circle. Ready to sew in the appropriate place. 

Dress: 

Chain 24 + 2 turning chains. If you’re using a different yarn, adjust the chain length around the doll’s chest; you may need more or fewer stitches. 

Crochet in back loops only for the following rows: 

1st-2nd rows: 24 hdc. 

3rd row: (inc, 3 hdc) x 6 (30 hdc). 

4th row: 30 hdc. 

Close the circle and continue crocheting in the round. Make sure it fits around the doll. 

5th-7th rows: 30 hdc. 

8th row: (4 hdc, inc) x 6 (36 hdc). 

9th row: 36 hdc. 

10th row: (5 hdc, inc) x 6 (42 hdc). 

11th-20th rows: 42 hdc. 

Finish crocheting where the back will be closed with a slip stitch. You can crochet 2-3 slip stitches one after the other to make the edge even. Cut the yarn, secure it. 

If the dress is intended to be removable, create buttons or snaps in the back and attach straps. If it’s not meant to be removable, dress the doll, sew up the opening on the back, and then attach the arms and straps. 

Straps (2 pieces): 

Chain 16 + 2 turning chains. 

16 hdc. 

Pocket (1 piece, but you can make 2 if you want): 

1st row: 6 sc in a magic ring, pull tight but do not close the ring. Turn the work. 

2nd row: 6 inc (12 sc). 

Sew the pockets with sand-colored threads and make a decorative row along the bottom of the dress. You can also embroider lighter-colored stripes on the dress, as shown in the photo of my doll. 

I tinted the dress with white acrylic paint – a drop of paint on a dry brush and apply it where you want a slight whitening effect. This gives the appearance of worn jeans if you’re using matching yarn colors. 

Before embroidering the face, it’s better to outline it with a pencil to ensure symmetric eyes. Embroider with embroidery floss or regular threads in a single strand. Then, shade the eyes with a brown pencil and add pink or red for the cheeks. 

For the hair, sew it through the holes on the head, usually making two passes for strength. Then, make small stitches around the head, securing the hair, leaving the front strands free. For small dolls, I like this method of hair attachment, especially for creating a hairstyle. You can secure each strand individually, but it can result in a bulky “mane,” especially with thick yarn for the hair. 

Hat: 

Use straw-colored yarn or any color you prefer. 

1st row: 6 sc in a magic ring. 

2nd row: 6 inc (12 sc). 

For all the following rows, crochet in the back loops only: 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18 sc). 

4th row: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sc). 

5th row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sc). 

6th row: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sc). 

7th row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42 sc). 

Check if the diameter fits considering the volume of your future hair. If it’s not enough, you may need to add one or two more rows with increases. 

8th-12th rows: 42 sc. 

13th row: Crochet in the FRONT loops only following the pattern. Start with 3 turning chains. 

14th row: Follow the pattern, starting with 3 turning chains. 

15th row: Edge the hat with 2 slip stitches and picot stitches, alternating to the end of the row. 

Based on the pattern and the number of stitches in the hat base, you’ll have one extra single crochet in the 13th row. I circled it with a pencil; do not crochet it at the very end of the row. In the 14th row, make 2 slip stitches instead of 3. Decorate as you like. 

Bonus: Hat with Lace Edging: 

1st row: 6 sc in a magic ring. 

2nd row: 6 inc (12 sc). 

3rd row: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18 sc). 

4th row: (2 sc, inc) x 6 (24 sc). 

5th row: (3 sc, inc) x 6 (30 sc). 

6th row: (4 sc, inc) x 6 (36 sc). 

7th row: (5 sc, inc) x 6 (42 sc). 

For all subsequent rows, crochet in the BACK loops only. 

8th-12th rows: 42 sc. 

13th row: Follow the pattern, starting with 3 turning chains. 

14th row: Follow the pattern, starting with 3 turning chains. 

15th row: Edge the hat with 2 slip stitches and picot stitches, alternating to the end of the row. 

According to the pattern and the number of stitches in the hat base, there will be one extra single crochet in the 13th row. I circled it with a pencil; do not crochet it at the very end of the row. In the 14th row, make 2 slip stitches instead of 3. Decorate as you like. 

This concludes the translation of the instructions. Enjoy crafting your little Sonia! 

The post Free Little Doll Sonia Amigurumi Pattern – Crochet Your Own Miniature Toy appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials

• Snowball Organica hand knitting ropes; 
  1 piece Baby Kitten (K271) color rope 
  1 piece Blue (K604) color rope 
  1 piece Orange (K256) color rope 
  1 piece Cream (K1034) color rope
• 1 piece Catania Color Ebruli (0211) color hand knitting rope
• 1 piece Gazzal Organic Baby Cotton Brown (433) color hand knitting rope
• 2 mm crochet hook
• 10 mm amigurumi eye
• Bead fiber, needle
• Blue and white felt

Abbreviations

MR Magic Ring

Ch Chain

Sl st slip stitch

Sc single crochet

Hdc half double crochet

Dc double crochet

Tr (or trc) triple (or treble) crochet

Inc increase (Add one or more stitches.)

Dec decrease (Eliminate one or more stitches.)

Turn Turn your work so you can work back for the next row.

Join Join two stitches together; usually done by working a slip stitch in the top of the next stitch.

Rep repeat (Do it again.)

Pattern

Head

Kitten is knitted with color rope.

1) Magic ring 6sc

2) 6inc = 12sc

3) (1sc, 1inc) * 6 = 18sc

4) (2sc, 1inc) * 6 = 24sc

5) (3sc, 1inc) * 6 = 30sc

6) (4sc, 1inc) * 6 = 36sc

7) (5sc, 1inc) * 6 = 42sc

8) (6sc, 1inc) * 6 = 48sc

9-18) 48sc

The eyes are attached on white and blue felt with 6 stitches between 13-14.

19) 16sc, (1inc, 1sc) * 2, 1inc, 6sc, (1inc, 1sc) * 2, 1inc, 16sc = 54sc

20-22) 54sc

23) 16sc, (1dec, 1sc) * 2, 1dec, 6sc, (1dec, 1sc) * 2, 1dec, 16sc = 48sc

24) (6sc, 1dec) * 6 = 42sc

25) (5sc, 1dec) * 6 = 36sc

26) (4sc, 1dec) * 6 = 30sc

27) (3sc, 1dec) * 6 = 24sc

28) (2sc, 1dec) * 6 = 18sc

29) (1sc, 1dec) * 6 = 12sc

30) 12sc

The fiber is filled, long rope is left to sew.

Legs and Body

Kitten is knitted with color rope.

1) Magic ring 5sc

2) 5inc = 10sc

3) (1sc, 1inc) * 5 = 15sc

4) (2sc, 1inc) * 5 = 20sc

5-6) 20sc

7) (2sc, 1dec) * 5 = 15sc

8) (1sc, 1dec) * 5 = 10sc

9) (1sc, 1inc) * 5 = 15sc

10-13) 15sc

14) (1inc) * 3, 12sc = 18sc

15-17) 18sc

18) (1dec) * 3, 12sc = 15sc

19-20) 15sc

21) (1inc) * 3, 12sc = 18sc

22-23) 18sc

24) 18sc

Leg one over. In the same way, the second leg is knitted, the loop is joined by shifting and knitting is started in the eye.

25-27) 36sc

Orange color is passed on the rope.

28) 36sc

29) (4sc, 1dec) * 6 = 30sc

30) (3sc, 1dec) * 6 = 24sc

31-32) 24sc

33) (2sc, 1dec) * 3 = 18sc

34) 18sc

35) Knitted with arms, 18sc

36) (1sc, 1dec) * 6 = 12sc

37) 12sc

The fiber is filled.

Arms

Kitten is knitted with color rope.

1) Magic ring 5sc

2) 5inc = 10sc

3-5) 10sc

6) (1dec) * 5 = 5sc

7) (1inc) * 5 = 10sc

8-15) 10sc

Orange color is passed on the rope.

16) 10sc

17) (1dec, 3sc) * 2 = 8sc

18) (1dec, 2sc) * 2 = 6sc

The fiber is filled.

Toupee

Knitted with brown rope

1) Magic ring 6sc

2) 6inc = 12sc

3) (1sc, 1inc) * 6 = 18sc

4) (2sc, 1inc) * 6 = 24sc

5) (3sc, 1inc) * 6 = 30sc

6) (4sc, 1inc) * 6 = 36sc

7) (5sc, 1inc) * 6 = 42sc

8) (6sc, 1inc) * 6 = 48sc

9-16) 48sc

To sew the rope is left long.

Knob (2 pieces)

Knitted with brown rope.

1) Magic ring 6sc

2) 6inc = 12sc

3) (1sc, 1inc) * 6 = 18sc

4) (2sc, 1inc) * 6 = 24sc

5-8) 24sc

9) (2sc, 1dec) * 6 = 18sc

10) (1sc, 1dec) * 6 = 12sc

The fiber is filled, long rope is left to sew.

bangs

Knitted with brown rope.

1) 8ch

2) 6sc from the second ch

3) 4sc, 2ch turn

4) 6sc

5) Return to 4sc, 2ch

6) 6sc

7) 4sc, 2ch turn

8) 6sc

9) 4sc, 2ch turn

10) 6sc

Long rope is left to sew.

Buckle (2 pieces)

Marbling color is knitted with rope.

1) 8ch

2) 6sc from the second ch

Long rope is left to sew.

3-22) 6sc

Skirt

Marbling color is knitted with rope.

1) 30ch is looped to the first chain to form the ring.

2) 30DC

3) (1dc, 1dcinc) * 15 = 45dc

4) 45dc

The blue color is switched on the rope.

5) 1 row of inverted frequent needles are made.

Long rope is left to sew. The skirt is sewn on the ground where the orange rope is passed on the body.

Ears (2 pieces)
Kitten is knitted with color rope.

1) Magic ring 6sc

Long rope is left to sew.

All the pieces are sewn as in the visual, face processing and Amigurumi Lol Baby is ready!

Health in your hand!

The post Lol Baby Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

ABBREVATİONS

CH – chain

SC – single crochet

SL-ST SLİP STİTCH

İNC increase

Dec decrease

Materials:

1. Yarn Jeans 160 / 50g beige, brown, white,

black and turquoise (or any other) colors.

Can be replaced with acrylic yarn of similar thickness.

2. Eyes on 6mm safety mount

3. For hearts: a little pink plush yarn

colors, for a little little pink jeans yarn

colors.

4. Filler for toys

5. Hook No. 1.75 or 2

All parts fit in a spiral. We do not do offset loops,

unless indicated in the description.

The toy is on its own.

Fill the details as you knit.

When using the recommended materials, you will knit

16 cm toy

PATTERN

Head:

1.6 sc into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. (3sc, İNC) * 6 (30)

6. (4sc, İNC) * 6 (36)

7. (5sc, İNC) * 6 (42)

8.-14. 42sc (7 rows) from the 14th row we knit hair color (I have brown)

Eyes inserted between 11 and 12 rows, the distance between

eyes of 5 loops.

15. (DEC, 5sc) * 6 (36) Next, we knit on the back

16. (DEC, 4sc) * 6 (30)

17. (DEC, 3sc) * 6 (24)

18. (DEC, 2sc) * 6 (18)

19. (DEC, sc) * 6 (12)

20.6DEC

For the left p / p we knit hair:

Dial 25 ch and knit 24 sl-st; retreat 3 p / p and for

The 4th p / p again we knit 25 ch and 24sl-st. Thus knit on

the whole head.

Ears:

6sc into magic ring, sl-st Sew ears to the head.

Legs (2pcs):

1.Set the chain of 5ch, from the second loop from the hook: 3sc, 4sc in

last loop, on the other side 2sc, İNC

2.İNC, 2sc, 4İNC, 3sc, İNC (17)

3.sc, İNC, 3sc, 6İNC, 5sc, İNC (25)

4.2sc, İNC, 3sc, (sc, İNC) * 6.7sc (32)

5. Behind the back of the hinge: 32sc

6.-7. 32sc

9.11sc, 6DEC, 9sc (26)

10.7sc, 6DEC, 7sc (20) Change the thread color

11.8sc, 2DEC, 8sc (18)

12.8sc, DEC of 3sc, 7sc (16)

13.16sc Fill the shoe.

14.-18. 16sc (we knit in stripes, alternating black (or gray) and

white colors)

19.-25. White: 16sc (7 rows)

We fill the legs tight enough, in the middle of the foot you can

drag in the middle for greater stability.

Tie the soles of the shoes with a crawfish step.

Having connected the second leg, we do not cut the thread, but continue to knit

torso.

We do 5ch and join the second leg.

Torso:

1.164sc along the leg, 5sc along the chain of ch, 16sc along the second leg,

5sc in chain (42)

2.-4. 42sc

5. (12sc, DEC) * 3 (39)

6. 39sc

7. (11sc, DEC) * 3 (36)

8. (10sc, DEC) * 3 (33)

9. (9sc, DEC) * 3 (30)

10. 30sc Change the thread to the color of the dress and continue to knit:

11. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

12.27sc

13. Behind the rear p / p: 27sc

14.-17. 27sc (4 rows)

18. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

19. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18) Fill

20. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12) Change the thread to body:

21.-23. 12sc (neck) (we knit the 21st row behind the back half-back)

24. 6DEC

Fill the neck very tight with a pencil or stick

for sushi.

Dress skirt:

1.for left p / p we knit 27 İNC from hdc (54)

2.-8. 54 hdc (7 rows)

9. behind the front p / p: (3ch, sc) * 54

White thread for the items left: (5ch, sc) * 54

We knit a collar with a white thread for the items left in the 21st row:

3ch, dc to the same loop, İNC from dc, 2hdc, sc, 2İNC, sc, 2hdc, 2İNC

from dc. Embroider an imitation fastener with the same thread.

Pens (2pcs):

1. start with flesh color: 6sc into magic ring

2. (İNC, 2sc) * 2 (8)

3.-6. 8sc Change the color to the color of the dress:

7.8sc

8.-9. behind the rear p / p: 8sc

10.-19. 8sc (10 rows) Do not fill!

20. For both sides of knitting: 4sc

For the items left in the 8th row with a white thread: (5ch, sc) * in a circle

For dresses left in the 9th row in the color of the dress: (3ch, sc) * in a circle

Sew handles to the body. Fix the head with a long needle

and sew to the body.

Heart:

1.6c into magic ring

2. 6İNC (12)

3. (sc, İNC) * 6 (18)

4. (2sc, İNC) * 6 (24)

5. 24sc Tie two parts, do not cut the thread from the second part,

continue to knit.

6. join the second part and knit 24 sc on it,

24sc for the first part (48) (here is the beginning of the row)

7. (DEC, 22sc) * 2 (46)

8. DEC, 19sc, 2DEC, 19sc (42)

9.42sc

10. (5sc, DEC) * 6 (36)

11. (4sc, DEC) * 6 (30)

12. (8sc, DEC) * 3 (27)

13. (7sc, DEC) * 3 (24)

14. (2sc, DEC) * 6 (18)

15. (sc, DEC) * 6 (12)

16.12sc Fill the heart

17.6DEC

18. 3DEC

Valentine is ready!

The post Valentine Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Materials: 

• Yarn of red, white, light brown, green, yellow, blue, purple, 

plus a little black yarn to create eyelashes 

• 2.5 mm hook 

• A pair of 12mm black protective eyes 

• Sintepon for stuffing 

• Yarn needles 

• Pearl pins 

• Two 6 mm white round buttons 

• A small piece of plastic sheet or thick cardboard 

• A pair of scissors 

• 3.5 cm blank for pompons 

• Sewing needle 

• White sewing thread 

• White embroidery thread 

Abbreviations

sc (single crochet) 

HDC (half double crochet) 

DC (double crochet) 

inc – (Increase) 

dec – (decrease) 

BLO (only behind the back of the loop) 

SL-ST – SLİP-STİTCH (connecting column, or slip loop) 

CH – CHAİN 

SIZE: 24 cm [approximately] when made from the specified yarn 

PATTERN

FOOTWEAR AND FEET [2 pcs] 

Note. Before you start working with shoes, cut 1m of white yarn and set it aside 

side. You will need it to sew the sole to the shoes. 

With white yarn, we recruit a chain of 8 CH. 

Row 1: Starting from the second loop from the hook, sc 6, inc into the last loop. Keep knitting 

on the opposite side of sc 6. [14] 

2nd row: inc in all 14 tbsp. [28] 

Row 3: sc around. [28] 

Row 4: BLO around. [28] 

Make the sole: on a small plastic sheet, lay the sole flat, circle the outline 

around it and cut out the base. Check if it is written to the border. Do 2 

holes in the center, at a distance of a few centimeters. Make a second sole, following those 

same instructions and set them aside. 

Next, knit with red yarn. 

Row 5: BLO SL-ST around. [28] 

Row 6: BLO around. [28] 

Insert the outsole: place the plastic outsole on the inside of the crotches, tuck in 

thread with a white yarn needle and, holding both parts together, insert the needle from the inside out 

through the hole and from the outside in through the second hole. Knot of yarn knotted inside 

shoe [Fig. 1-3]. 

Row 7: sc around. [28] 

Row 8: sc 10, dec X 5, sc 8. [23] 

Row 9: sc 8, dec X 4, sc 7. [19] 

Row 10: sc 7, dec X 3, sc 6. [16] 

Row 11: sc 5, dec X 3, sc 5. [13] Attach the white yarn. 

Row 12: BLO SL-ST around. [13] Row 13: BLO sc around. [13] Fill the shoes. 

Attach a light brown yarn. 

Row 14: BLO SL-ST around. [thirteen] 

Row 15: BLO sc around. [thirteen] 

Row 16-19: sc around. [thirteen] 

Row 20: sc 8, 4 columns in 1 loop, sc 4. [13] 

Row 21: sc, dec X 2, sc 8. [11] 

Row 22: sc, inc X 2, sc 8. [13] 

Row 23: inc, sc 4, inc, sc 7. [15] Fill the leg. 

Row 24-27: sc around. [15] Switch to green yarn. 

Row 28: BLO SL-ST Around, [15] 

Row 29: BLO sc around. [fifteen] 

Counting counterclockwise from the last processed line, mark the 7th column. it 

where we will join the legs later. To fasten. Fill the leg. Sew three shoelaces with white 

embroidery thread on the shoe to make shoelaces [see Cover image for Help]. 

Make the second leg the same way, but do not cut the thread. Knit an extra 3 sc (you 

should end up in the middle of the inside of the leg.) 

BODY 

Keep working with green yarn. 

Row 1: CH 3. Connect 2 legs of SL-ST, 15 sc [Fig. 4] on the right leg. Then, 3sc in the front 

hinges (or loops facing you); 15 sc. [33] 

Row 2: 3sc over chain loops, 33sc around both legs. [36] 

Row 3-5: sc around. [36] 

Row 6: (sc 4, dec) X 6. [30] Replace with yellow yarn. 

7th row: BLO. [thirty] 

Row 8: BLO sc around. [thirty] 

Row 9: sc around. [30] Replace with green yarn. 

Row 10-11: sc around. [30] Replace with yellow yarn. 

Row 12-13: sc around. [30] Replace with green yarn. 

Row 14-15: sc around. [30] Replace with yellow yarn. 

Row 16-17: sc around. [30] Replace with green yarn. 

Row 18: (sc 3, dec) X 6. [24] Fill the body. 

Row 19: dec X 12. [12] 

Replace with a light brown yarn. 

Row 20: BLO SL-ST around. [12] 

Row 21: BLO sc around. [12] 

Row 22-29: sc around. [12] 

At this stage, it is very important to fill the neck as tightly as possible so that it can support the weight 

heads. 

Row 30: dec X 6. [6] 

Fasten by leaving a long thread. Using a yarn needle, thread the yarn through 

the remaining loops of each column and tighten it tightly, covering the neck. Hide the thread. 

Hand [2pcs] 

With a light brown, we knit a chain of 7CH. 

Row 1: Starting from the second loop from the hook, 5 sc, inc in the last loop. Keep working 

on the opposite side of the circuit 5sc. [12] 

Row 2-3: sc around. [12] 

Row 4: [Left hand] sc, 4sc in 1 loop, sc 10. [12] 

Row 4: [Right hand] sc 11, 4sc in 1 loop. [12] 

Row 5: sc around. [12] 

Row 6: [Left hand] sc, dec, sc 2, dec, sc 5. [10] 

Row 6: [Right hand] sc 6, dec, sc 2, dec. [10] Replace with green yarn. 

7th row: BLO 10 SL-ST. [10] 

Row 8: BLO 10sc around. [10] 

Row 9-17: sc around. [10] Replace with yellow yarn. 

Row 18-19: sc around. [10] Replace with green yarn. 

Row 20-24: sc around. [10] 

Fasten by leaving a long thread for sewing. 

Fill your hand lightly. Join the upper arm in half and close it with 5SL-ST. Sew on 

hands to the 18th row of the body. 

DRESS 

Skirt 

Dial a 10CH chain with blue yarn. We knit in rotary rows, each row begins with CH. 

Row 1: Starting from the second loop from the hook, 3sc, 3inc DC, 3DC, turn. [9] 

We knit the next row only on the back wall of the loop. 

Line 2: 2CH [considered first HDC], 2HDC, 3DC, 3SC, rotation. [9] 

Line 3: CH 1, sc 3, HDC 3, DC 3, turn. [9] 

Line 4-29: repeat lines 2 and 3. [9] Try on a doll! If necessary, add rows to 

a full turn of the skirt around the waist. 

Line 30: CH 2 [considered first HDC], 2HDC, 3DC, 3SC. Do not turn around. 

CH 1 and sc across the end of the shorter row, making one stitch per row to align the edges 

[Figure 5]. [30] This will be the waistline. 

Fasten by leaving a long thread for sewing. 

Skirt top 

Row 1: We knit with blue yarn from the 10th row along the short side, continue to knit the following: 

8 sc, CH, turn. [9] 

Line 2-6: 9 DC, CH, turn. [9] 

Row 7: 9 DC. [9] 

Fasten and hide the thread. 

Connect the last row and the first row together 30SL-ST [see Fig. 5 for reference] to get 

skirt. Cut and hide the thread. 

Thread the sewing needle with white sewing thread and sew 6 mm white buttons in 

upper corners of the bib. Put the skirt on your upper body, connecting 

the waist line of the skirt with the 6th row of the body 

Strap [2 pcs] 

From blue yarn dial, 23CH. Starting from the 4th loop from the hook, 20 sc. 

Fasten by leaving a long thread for sewing. 

Attach the straps on the waist line at the back about the 8th row from the bib and sew them on [Fig. 

6]. Cross the straps on the back, fasten. 

HEAD 

Row 1: with light brown yarn, 8 sc into magic ring. [8] 

Row 2: inc X 8. [16] 

Row 3: (sc 1, inc) X 8. [24] 

Row 4: (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32] 

Row 5: (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40] 

Row 6: (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48] 

Row 7: (sc 5, inc) X 8. [56] 

Row 8-20: sc in a spiral. [56] 

Row 21: (sc 5, dec) X 8. [48] 

Row 22: (sc 4, dec) X 8. [40] 

Row 23: (sc 3, dec) X 8. [32] 

Row 24: (sc 2, dec) X 8. [24] 

Insert 12 mm eyelets between Rows 16 and 17, leaving 9 stitches between 

them. 

Row 25: dec X 12. [12] 

Fasten, hide the end of the thread. Fill the head, leaving a space in the center to insert the neck. 

EYES 

Eye contraction. 

Thread the needle with a light brown yarn. Insert the needle into the hole in the base 

of the head, remove it from point A near the eye [Fig. 7]. Push the needle back to point B 

withdraw at point C next to the next eye [Fig. 8]. Insert the needle at point D, pull out again 

the needle from point A [Fig. 9]. 

Gently squeeze your eyes with your fingers and gently pull the yarn to bring your eyes closer. 

Holding this shape, return the needle back to point B and withdraw from point C [Fig. 10]. Insert 

point D and remove it from the hole at the base of the head [Fig. eleven]. Gently pull both ends 

yarn and tie them together to maintain their shape [Fig. 12]. Cut off excess yarn and 

hide the ends of the yarn in the head. 

Eye Details: Take a thread of white yarn and sew a crescent shape around the outer eye 

[Fig. thirteen]. Sew a horizontal line over the eye with black yarn, starting with 

the inner corner of the eye that extends beyond the white crescent [see fig. 13 for reference]. 

NOSE 

To make a nose, sew 3 short horizontal lines with a light brown yarn between 

eyes [between rows 17 and 18 of the head] [See Fig. 14 for reference]. 

Join the body 

Note: this head / body connection technique ensures that your doll’s head will 

movable. Thread the needle with light brown yarn and insert the needle into the top 

heads [center of the spacecraft] and bring out into the openings of the neck. Now insert your needle into the base of the neck with 

side [between the 23rd and 24th rows of the body], and withdraw back through the opening of the neck on the head, again 

pulling it out at the top of the head. Slide the head down over the two threads of yarn until it 

fits perfectly on the neck. Fasten the thread so that it does not untie. Cut the thread and carefully 

push the remaining yarn back into the head [See Fig. 15 for reference]. 

Wig 

Row 1: Knit with purple yarn, 8 sc into magic ring. [8] 

Row 2: STD inc X 8. [16] 

Row 3: STD (sc 1, inc) X 8. [24] 

Row 4: STD (sc 2, inc) X 8. [32] 

Row 5: STD (sc 3, inc) X 8. [40] 

Row 6: STD (sc 4, inc) X 8. [48] 

Row 7: STD (sc 5, inc) X 8. [56] 

Row 8-16: STD sc around. [56] 

Do not cut the thread. Next, we will continue to work on the front of the wig. 

Bang 

Fringe 1: dial the 11CH chain, starting from the second loop from the hook, 6sc, 4HDC, SL-ST 

skipping 1 loop in the wig. [10] 

Fringe 2: we collect the chain 8 CH, starting from the second loop from the hook, 3sc, 4HDC, SL-ST 

skipping 1 loop in the wig. [7] 

Fringes 3 and 4: we draw a chain of 6 CH, starting from the second loop from the hook, 2sc, 3HDC, SL-ST 

skipping 1 loop in the wig. [5] 

Fringe 5: we collect the chain 8 CH, starting from the second loop from the hook, 3sc, 4HDC, SL-ST 

skipping 1 loop in the wig. [7] 

Fasten by leaving a long thread for sewing. 

Put a wig on your head; place the edges on the forehead and secure them with pins. Sew a wig on 

the head. 

Make two pompons with 3.5 cm purple yarn. Sew them on the 10th row of the wig, on both 

to the parties. 

Ears [2 pcs] 

Row 1: with a light brown yarn, 3 sc into magic ring, do not combine, CH, turn. [3] 

Row 2: inc X3. [6] 

Fasten by leaving a long thread for sewing. Fasten the ears to the head, aligning them with the eyes 

[cm. Fig. 16 for example], and sew them. 

The post Doll Violet Amigurumi Free Pattern  appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

Difficulty Level: High

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Materials:

All yarn should be the same thickness. It is best to take yarn from one manufacturer and one

stamps. For example, these materials were used for my Miku:

• flesh-colored YarnArt Jeans yarn (55% cotton / 45% polyacryl, 50g / 160m) flesh-colored (21),

knit in 2 thin strings, fingers knit in 1 thread

• VITA Brilliant yarn (45% wool laster / 55% acrylic, 100g / 380 m) dark gray (4980) and light gray (4963) – disconnect one thread and knit in three thin threads

• turquoise yarn: VITA Crystal (100% acrylic, 50g / 275m) (5665) – for hair and trim

clothes

• white yarn: Color City Amazon (45% bamboo / 55% cotton; 50g / 155m) (101) disconnect

one thread, knit in 5 thin threads – panties

• hook 1.25 (main); 0.75 and 0.6 (for knitting fingers)

• toe knitting needles 1.75 – 5 pcs.

• holofiber

• thick wire d = 2.5 mm (braided) 120 cm – for the frame of the legs and body

• wire d = 1,5 mm 50 cm – for the frame of the hands

• thin wire for beadwork d = 0.4 mm, 80 cm – for the frame of the palms

• 10 cm light pink yarn for embroidery mouth

• a small piece of dense fabric (calico), acrylic paints in white, black, blue, deep blue (or green) colors – for the eyes

• art artificial brushes No. 0 and 0/3 (the thinnest)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• glue Crystal Moment

• thick plastic paper folder – for insoles

• tissue-based adhesive plaster

ABBREVATİONS

ch – air loop

sl-st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

dc – double crochet

dec – inconspicuous decrease (grab the two front walls of the base loop at the same time and knit 1sc)

dec * – normal decrease (2sc together)

inc – increase (2 sc from one loop of the base)

hdc – half crochet

inc hdc – increase with half crochets (knit 2 hdc from one loop of the base)

3vm – 3 sc together (knit 3 sc with a common vertex)

İNC – turn the work, thread for knitting

İNC * – turn the work, the thread before knitting

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Legend (knitting needles):

knit – front loop

purl – purl loop

front surface – on the front side knit with facial loops, on the wrong side – purl

2vm – 2 together front for the rear wall. Synonym: 2 loops knit together front with an inclination to the left

2vm * – 2 together front for the front wall. Synonym: 2 stitches knit together front with tilt

right

2vm purl – knit 2 loops together with the wrong loop

+ 1 person – tie an additional facial loop from the loop of the previous row

Adding loops right and left raising – video (I was more comfortable adding loops left

raising)

1 stitch to the right knitting needle without knitting, the working thread behind the removed loop

Knit the edge loops in the front row, and in

wrong side – wrong side.

Head

The head spirals from top to bottom, from the top of the head to the chin. The marker line is centered.

occiput.

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring = 6

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (3sc, inc) × 6 = 30

6 p: (1sc, inc, 3sc) × 6 = 36

7 p: (5sc, inc) × 6 = 42

8 p: (2sc, inc, 4sc) × 6 = 48

9 p: 48 sc

10 p: (7sc, inc) × 6 = 54

11-17 p: 54sc (7 rows) +1 n offset

18 p: 12sc, put an additional marker (place

sewing eyelets), 30sc, put a marker (second

eye), 12sc = 54

19 p: (dec, 7sc) × 6 = 48

20 r: 48sc

21 p: 17sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 17sc = 44

22 p: 12sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 10sc, 2ch = 48 (it turned out that the last 2 were not tied

loops, and above them 2 ch)

23 p: 2ch (total 4ch: 2ch from the 22nd row + 2ch of this row), skip 4 base loops, 10sc,

inc, 3sc, inc, 14sc, inc, 3sc, inc, 12sc = 52

24 p: 52sc – between the 23rd and 24th rows mark the 27th loop – from this mark we will count

eye hook loops +1 n offset

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Sew a thread of contrasting color to outline the hairline: in front – between the 6th and 7th rows, along

on the sides – 1 row above the ears, behind – 1 row above the neck hole.

Make hair.

Cut turquoise strings into strands 60 cm long,

fold them in half and fix along the perimeter of hair growth. To me

it took about 130 threads. Fasten with ordinary knitting

crochet according to the pattern. Attach hair for one first

tail, then for another.

Attach the strings along the parting line to the same holes as

the first row, then when dividing the lock into two tails on

there will be no bald spot in the middle of the parting.

If you divide the hair along the center line to the left and to the right, you get an even parting, and if

distribute the row to the left, the row to the right, you get a zigzag parting.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Tie ponytails with small rubber bands for hair. This is a temporary option, we will finally

to fix when the head is completely ready.

Continue to knit your head.

25 p: 12sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, inc (nose formation), 6sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 13sc = 49

26 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, (inc) × 2 (nose), 5sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 2sc = 45

27 p: 1sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 1sc = 39

28 p: 1sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, 3vm (nose tip), 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 1sc = 31

29 p: 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec = 24

30 r: 24sc

31 p: (1sc, dec) × 3, 2sc, (inc) × 2 (chin formation), 2sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3 = 20

32 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 1sc, (inc) × 2 (chin), 1sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

Fill your head with filler. Filling is not too tight. Form from filler

a small ball and place it in the area of ​​the nose so that it stands out better on the face.

33 p: (dec) × 3, 6sc, (dec) × 3 = 12p

With the help of three hooks, tighten all these 12 loops in one step. Fasten and hide the thread inside out.

Ears

Knit in rows.

Left ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, 3ch (for lifting), İNC

2 row: starting from the 1st loop: 1dc, 2hdc, 3sc, inc, 1ch, ss into magic ring

Leave the thread for sewing.

Right ear

1 row: 7 loops in an amigurumi ring, İNC

2 row: from the 1st loop knit: inc, 3sc, 2hdc, 1dc, 1ch

Next, knit a ss in a broach of a crochet column and fasten the thread. Leave the thread for sewing.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Embroider bangs

In a knit needle with a blunt tip

insert a long thread of turquoise color and

start embroidering bangs, stitching stitches

tight to each other. At the same time, we try to

the strings did not twist during operation,

and lay parallel to each other.

We make the lower border uneven. Bang part

we put on already completed stitches.

Sew ears on the markers.

Determine the exact location for each ponytail

and fasten them with small silicone

rubber bands.

Hands

Paired details are best knitted in parallel (from two balls), so that they turn out the same

size. We begin to knit hands with fingers, the direction of knitting from the bottom up to the shoulder.

We knit with a disconnected thread (two times thinner than the main fabric), hook 0.6. Starting from the 3rd row

You can insert a sewing needle into your finger and then knit as around the frame (method from Elena_rak).

Index finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 2sc (partial row)

Middle finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-9 p: 5sc (8 rows)

Ring finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

9 p: 3sc (partial row)

Little finger (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-7 p: 5sc (6 rows)

Thumb (2 pcs.)

1 p: ​​5sc into magic ring

2-8 p: 5sc (7 rows)

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Finger assembly

On the left hand, the marker goes from the index finger up the edge of the palm (in front), on the right hand – from

little finger up the back of the hand. Monitor marker position on these lines.

Left hand

We begin to collect with the index finger.

Change the hook to 0.75, attach another

a thread to the worker (we knit the main worker

thick yarn).

Right hand

We begin to collect with the little finger. Change hook

at 0.75, attach another thread to

working (we knit the main working thickness

yarn).

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop from the index finger,

second – average), 1sc average

finger, 1sc over the ring, dec * (one

loop with ring finger, second – with

little finger), dec (“invisible”), 1sc on the little finger,

dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, dec * (one loop with the nameless

finger, the second – from the middle), 1sc by

middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second with the index finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

1 p: ​​1sc, dec * (one loop with the little finger, the second with

ring finger), 1sc over the ring finger

finger, 1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one

loop from the middle finger, the second with

index), dec (“invisible”), 1sc by

index finger, dec * (one loop with

index finger, the second – from the middle),

1sc on the middle finger, dec * (one loop with

middle finger, the second – with the ring finger),

1sc on the ring finger, dec * (one loop

from the nameless, the second – from the little finger), dec

(“invisible”) = 13

2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows) 2-4 p: (change the hook by 1.25) 13 sc (3 rows)

5 p: 2sc knit together with eyelets

thumb1

, 11sc = 13

5 p: 5sc, next 2sc knit with

thumb loops1

, 6sc = 13

6 p: 2sc over thumb loops, dec * (one

loop from the thumb, the second with

hands) 1

, 10sc = 13

6 p: 4sc, dec * (one loop from the palm, the second with

thumb), 2sc over the loops of the thumb

finger1

, 6sc = 13

1 To hook the loops on the thumb, grab the 0.75 hook again.

We knit them the first two loops of the 5th row and the first three loops of the 6th row.

We make the frame. Take two pieces of wire with a cross section of 1.5 mm2 by 25 cm, and two pieces of thin bead

wire d = 0.4 mm by 40 cm. Make a frame of the hands and insert it into the palms. Further knit around

wire.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

7 p: (dec, 1sc) × 4, 1sc = 9

8-10 r: 9sc (3 rows)

11 p: inc, 3sc, inc, 4sc = 11

12-13 p: 11sc (2 rows)

14 p: inc, 4sc, inc, 5sc = 13

15-17 p: 13 sc (3 rows)

We stuff in the process of knitting: we do not stuff the wrist; add a little filler in the forearm,

distributing it around the wire; we’re not stuffing the elbow so as not to disturb the shape of the hand; humeral

part is stuffed a little denser so that the hand holds its shape.

Left hand right hand

18 p: 6sc, inc, 6sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2 (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger), 4sc, dec (ulnar

fold) = 15

25 p: dec, 12sc, inc = 15

26 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2, 6sc = 14

27-28 r: 14sc (2 rows)

29 p: inc, 13sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: inc, 14sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

18 p: inc, 12sc = 14

19-23 r: 14sc (5 rows)

24 p: 13sc, inc (elbow – located on the back, on

one line with the little finger) = 15

25 p: inc, 4sc, (dec) × 2 (ulnar fold), 6sc = 14

26 p: 6sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc, dec = 15

27 p: dec, 13sc = 14

28 p: 14sc

29 p: 6sc, inc, 7sc = 15

30-31 p: 15sc (2 rows)

32 p: 7sc, inc, 7sc = 16

33-44 r: 16sc (12 rows)

45 p: 2sc, ss (incomplete row) – the thread is located with

the inner side of the arm (from the side of the body).

Cut the thread and secure it on the wrong side.

Sleeves

Knit from the bottom up. Dial 24 stitches (6 cm), close in a ring, and knit, evenly reducing the stitches.

1-5 p: 24 faces (5 rows)

6 p: (dec, 10 persons) × 2 = 22

7-11 r: 22 faces (5 rows)

12 p: (5 knit, dec, 4 persons) × 2 = 20

13-17 r: 20 faces (5 rows)

18 p: (dec, 8 persons) × 2 = 18

19-23 r: 18 faces (5 rows)

24 p: (4 knit, dec, 3 persons) × 2 = 16

25-29 p: 16 faces (5 rows)

30 p: (dec, 6 persons) × 2 = 14

31-39 p: 14 persons (9 rows)

40 p: knit a row while closing all the loops

Tie the top and bottom of the sleeve with one row sc of turquoise yarn. Complete it with a secret connector

column. Steam the finished sleeves with a steam jet (without touching the knitted fabric).

Put the gloves on Miku’s hands (put on top). Mittens can not be sewn to the hands, they are already

hold well.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Legs

The marker line runs behind the leg (“seam on the stocking”). Watch the marker if it starts to go away

right, knit an extra column at the end of the row and move the marker one loop. The legs are the same as

hands, it is better to knit both at once.

Sole (2 children)

Knit in circular rows with a lifting loop and a closing connecting column. This ss can

knit either in the first column of this row (green arrow), or in the lifting loop (yellow arrow). we

we will close the row in the first column of the row.

Turquoise yarn knit a chain of 10 ch.

1 p: ​​starting from the second from the hook loop: 8sc, 4sc to the last

loop of the chain, 7sc, inc, ss in the first sc of this row (by

green arrow) = 21

2 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lift loop: 6sc, 2hdc, (inc hdc) × 4, 2hdc, 6sc, (inc) × 2,

ss in the first column of this row (in the green arrow) = 28

3 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 10sc, (inc, 1sc) × 3, 9sc, (inc, 1sc) × 2, ss in

the first sc of this row (in the green arrow) = 34

4 p: 1ch for lifting; starting from the same loop on which it is connected

lifting loop: 8sc, (1sc, inc, 1sc) × 4, 11sc, inc, 2sc = 39

Cut the working thread, leaving a thread about 1.5 m long (its length should be sufficient for tying

soles with one row of connecting posts). Insert this ponytail into a knitted needle and

execute a countersunk column in the first loop of the row (order of execution is here). It turns out 40

loops.

Heel (2 children)

We knit in rotary rows. Knit a chain of 4ch with turquoise yarn.

1 p: ​​starting from the second loop from the hook: 2sc, 4sc into the last loop of the chain, on the back

chains 2sc, 1ch, İNC = 8

2 p: 3sc, (inc) × 2, 3sc, 1ch, İNC = 10

3 p: 4sc, (inc) × 2, 4sc = 12

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Boot (2 pcs.)

Knit with dark gray yarn in 3 thin threads. Link the chain from 40ch, lock it in the ss ring.

1-2 p: 40sc (2 rows)

3 p: 13sc, (dec) × 7, 1sc, İNC *

4 p: (knit with purl sc) (dec *) × 4, 1sc, İNC

5 p: dec *, 2sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the center of the last column, the second from the next

hinges of the 2nd row), 1sc İNC *

6 p: (knit with purl sc) dec *, 2sc, dec * (similar to the previous row), 1sc, İNC

7 p: dec *, 2sc, dec *, 9sc

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Attach the heel to the sole and place the upper part of the boot on top, precisely align all the details

relative to each other. Turquoise yarn to connect all these three parts in one row

connecting columns (in the photographs for clarity, the connection of parts is shown in white

yarn). Secure the thread with a secret connecting column and hide on the inside.

From the plastic paper folder, cut out the insoles slightly smaller than the soles.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

If the doll will be interior and I want her to stand in any position, then in the heel area on

insoles need to make holes. Then they can insert the frame from the stand.

Cut two pieces of wire of 60 cm d = 2.5, bend the frame in half. One end should be long

slightly larger than the length of the leg, approximately 22-25 cm, the second – slightly larger than the length of the body. Bend

fasten the resulting loop perpendicular to the frame and in the ankle region fasten with 1.5-2 turns

adhesive tape.

Attach a plastic insole to the wire with 1 turn of adhesive tape (a lot is not needed, only to

the insole was locked in the correct position). Insert this frame in the leg and continue to knit around

wire. Stuff in the process of knitting, evenly distributing the filler around the wire

frame.

Then again we knit in circular rows.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

8 p: 8sc, dec * (pull the first loop from the 9th column, the second from the first loop of the rotary row),

2sc, dec, 8sc = 20

9 p: 7sc, (dec *) × 3, 7sc = 17

10 p: dec, 5sc, (dec) × 2, 5sc, dec = 13 (the last decrease captures the last loop of the 10th row and the first

loop of the 11th row; as a result, the marker has shifted left by 1 loop)

11-16 p: 13sc (6 rows)

Left foot right foot

17 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 2sc, inc, 11sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 3sc, inc, 8sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 3sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 1sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 4sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 3sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 2sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 3sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 1sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: 3sc, dec, 15sc, dec = 20

43 p: 3sc, dec, 4sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 8sc = 21

44 p: 2sc, dec, 17sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 3sc, inc,

3sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-58 r: 24sc (4 rows)

59 p: 21sc (partial row)

17 p: 11sc, inc, 1sc = 14

18-19 p: 14sc (2 rows)

20 p: 11sc, inc, 2sc = 15

21-22 p: 15sc (2 rows)

23 p: 2sc, inc, 9sc, inc, 2sc = 17

24-25 p: 17sc (2 rows)

26 p: 1sc, inc, 11sc, inc, 3sc = 19

27 p: 19sc

28 p: 1sc, inc, 17sc = 20

29 p: 20sc

30 p: 3sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 3sc = 22

31-32 r: 22sc (2 rows)

33 p: 2sc, inc, 15sc, inc, 3sc = 24

34-38 p: 24sc (5 rows)

39 p: 1sc, dec, 16sc, dec, 3sc = 22

40-41 p: 22sc (2 rows)

42 p: dec, 15sc, dec, 3sc = 20

43 p: 8sc, inc, 1sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 3sc = 21

44 p: 17sc, dec, 2sc = 20

45 r: 20sc

46 p: 3sc, inc, 4sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, inc,

2sc = 20

47-48 p: 20sc (2 rows)

49 p: 4sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 4sc = 22

50-53 r: 22sc (4 rows)

54 p: 4sc, inc, 12sc, inc, 4sc = 24

55-59 p: 24sc (5 rows) +6 loops

displacements (the beginning of the row is shifted inward)

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Then both legs are knitted the same way. Change the thread to turquoise.

60 r: 24sc

Change thread to skin color.

61 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc

62-71 p: (for both walls) 24sc (10 rows)

Body

On the right leg, knit 2sc with flesh-colored thread, then switch to white yarn and knit 1sc –

the working thread is exactly between the legs. Tie 1ch (so that there is a small distance between the legs).

1 p: ​​24sc (on the left foot), 1sc on ch, 24sc (on the right foot), 1sc on ch = 50

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now you need to transfer the marker to the stomach so that the halves of the priests are not one above the other, so that

increases / decreases were located strictly in one row and were at the same height. Knit 24 p offsets and

place the marker exactly in the center of the abdomen.

2 p: 15sc, (inc, 3sc) × 2, 1sc, dec, (3sc, inc) × 2, 16sc = 53

3 p: 16sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 3sc, dec, 3sc, inc, 4sc, inc, 17sc = 56

4 p: 27sc, dec, 27sc = 55

Bend the frame coming from the legs to each other, cut off the excess wire with wire cutters, and connect it

together with a band-aid.

5-10 p: 55sc (6 rows)

11 p: 16sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 16sc = 51

12 p: 12sc, change the thread to a flesh color, (continue to knit behind the back wall of the loop) 39sc = 51

13 p: (for the back wall of the loop) 12sc, (for both walls) 2sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 14sc = 47

14 p: 14sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 14sc = 43

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

15 p: 43sc

16 p: 8sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 5sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 8sc = 38

17 p: 13 sc, dec, 8 sc, dec, 13 sc = 36

18 p: 5 sc, dec, 22 sc, dec, 5 sc = 34

19-24 p: 34 sc (6 rows)

25 p: 6sc, inc, 20sc, inc, 6sc = 36

26-27 p: 36sc

28 p: 12sc, inc, 10sc, inc, 12sc = 38

29 p (incomplete row): 19sc

Put the marker exactly in the middle of the back. This is necessary so that the chest does not work out on different

height.

When you fill the body, try not to put a lot of filler in the abdomen, so as not to

the bulging tummy turned out.

30 p: 8sc, inc, 4sc, (inc) × 3, 5sc, (inc) × 3, 4sc, inc, 9sc = 46

31 p: 14sc, (1hdc, inc hdc) × 3, 6sc, (inc hdc, 1hdc) × 3, 14sc = 52

32-34 p: 52sc (3 rows)

In the 33rd row, note the center of the chest with contrasting thread, in this

we’ll do a little tightening later.

35 p: 15sc, (dec, 1sc) × 3, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 3, 15sc = 46

36 p: 16sc, (dec, 1sc) × 2, 4sc, (1sc, dec) × 2, 14sc = 42

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Attach the frame of the hands to the “spine”.

When you get to the site where you need to knit at the same time the body and arm loops together, get a working thread

under the wire frame, knit these three loops. Then pull the hook out of the loop and slip it

under the frame to the other side (turn). Next, knit according to the scheme to the next section of the arm connection

and body. Perform it similarly to the first.

Now you can knit the body further.

37 p: 8sc, 3sc (capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and left hand), 5sc, dec, 7sc, dec, 5sc, 3sc

(capturing simultaneously the loops of the body and the right hand), 7sc = 40

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine” with two stitches. Strongly do not zealous so as not to

it turned out a hole instead of a beautiful hollow.

38 p: 8sc (back), 13sc (left hand), 19sc (front), 13sc (right hand), 7sc (back) = 60

39 p: 8sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 19sc, dec, 3sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 7sc = 54

40 p: 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 7sc, dec, (3sc, dec) × 3, 6sc = 46

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Once again, slightly pull the center of the chest to the “spine”. The tie point is 2 rows higher than the previous one. This

fasten the weight, as well as the first one, under the arm frame.

Shoulders

The shoulders fit, as well as the feet, in swivel rows. It is necessary to ensure that the wrong bars

were pretty tight. Otherwise, you will get holes on the shoulders, and through them will shine through

filler.

41 p: 8sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

42 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

43 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

44 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

45 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 12sc, (dec) × 4, 1sc, İNC *

46 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

47 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC *

48 p: (purl) dec *, 1sc, dec *, 1sc, İNC

49 p: dec *, 1sc, dec *, 2sc +1 n offset

50 r: (continue to knit in a spiral) 3sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row,

11sc, 1sc to the center of the column knitted in the next loop of the row, 6sc = 22

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Shoulder knitting pattern:

Fulfillment of the 50th row: the arrows show on which stitches the 3rd and 4th sc should be knitted; 16th and 17th

sc knit similarly

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

51 p: 2sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 18

52 p: 18sc

53 p: 2sc, dec, 1sc, dec, 4sc, dec, 2sc, dec, 2sc = 14

54-61 p: 14sc (8 rows)

Knit another 3 sc so that the working thread is on the left side of the neck (here when sewing the head does not

the “step” will be so noticeable), ss. Cut the thread, leaving a tail sufficient for sewing

heads.

Take your time sewing on your head. When trying on clothes, hair will interfere, so first we

we will dress Miku, and then we will fix the head.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Clothing (knitting needles)

Pleated skirt

We will need:

• yarn is dark gray

• turquoise yarn for decoration

• toe knitting needles 1.75 (5 pcs.)

Type 48 stitches on the knitting needles. Distribute them to 4

knitting needles 12 loops. Close the loop in the ring and then

knit in a circle.

1 p: ​​48 persons = 48

2 p: (4 faces, + 1 life) × 12 = 60

3 p: (2 faces, 1 faces to retake without knitting (thread for

loop), 1 face, 1 life) × 12 = 60

4 p: (4 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 60

5 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 1 knit, 1 person to retake without tying

(thread behind the loop), 1 person, 1 life) × 12 = 72

6 p: (5 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 72

7 p: (3 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 1 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

8 p: (6 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 84

9 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 2 knit, 1 person reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 person, 1 life) × 12 = 96

10 p: (7 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 96

11 p: (4 faces, 1 faces reshoot (thread behind the loop), 2 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 108

12 p: (8 people, 1 life) × 12 = 108

13 p: (1 person, + 1 person, 3 person, 1 person retake (thread behind the loop), 3 person, 1 person) × 12 = 120

14 p: (9 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 120

15 p: (5 faces, 1 faces retake (thread behind the loop), 3 faces, + 1 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

16 p: (10 faces, 1 life) × 12 = 132

Knit the first loop on the knitting needle, and then re-knit it on the right knitting needle. The beginning of the row has shifted to 1

loop to the left. In the next row we knit loops and close. Close the loops one at a time, and upon reaching

wrong side, grab the wrong side and the next one behind the front wall and close both of them

at once.

17 p: 9 faces, 2vm * (the wrong side and the following one are knitted together) = 120

Cut the thread and hide the tail on the inside. Attach a turquoise thread and tie the bottom of the skirt

one side sc.

Very carefully, through wet gauze, steam all the folds (with one touch, do not press strongly).

Put the skirt on the body and sew with a thin sewing thread (or thin fishing line) along the hips, just above

the top edge of the shorts.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Belt strap

Link a chain of 56 ch. Starting from the second loop, knit 55 sc along this chain. Steaming the strap

a stream of steam (do not touch the iron) and sew on the skirt on the left to the belt.

Jacket

Light gray yarn, knitting needles 1.75, knit tightly.

Tie a chain of 54 ch with a contrasting thread (tied more than necessary, because it is difficult to make from extreme loops

dial loops). Take the main yarn in light gray, leave a loose tip about 70-

80 cm (then we will close the open hinges of the bottom with this thread) and use a hook to pull out light gray

yarn on the back of a chain 52 loop.

1 p: ​​52 purl = 52

2 p: 52 knit = 52

3 p: 15 life, (2vm purl, 5 life) × 3, 2vm purl, 14 life = 48

4-5 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

6 p: 2vm *, 12persons, (2vm *, 4persons) × 3, 2vm *, 12persons, 2vm = 42

7-8 r: facial smoothness (2 rows)

9 r: 2vm wrong side, 5niz, İNC

10 r: double crochet, 6 knits, İNC

11 p: 3life, İNC

12 r: double crochet, 3 knits, İNC

13 p: 3 life, yarn and the next loop to knit together

wrong side of the back wall, 2 wear, yarn and

knit the next loop together

back wall, 4lv, (2vm purl, 3lv) × 3, 2vm purl, 13lv = 37

14 p: 2vm *, 5 persons, İNC

15 p: yarn, 6niz, İNC

16 r: 3 persons, İNC

17 p: yarn, 3niz, İNC

18 p: 3 knit, double crochet and the next loop together with the front for the front wall, 2 knit, double crochet and

knit the next loop together over the front wall, 29 faces = 36

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

19-21 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

22 p: 9 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 9 persons = 38

23-25 ​​r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

26 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 18 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 40

27-29 r: facial smoothness (3 rows)

30 p: 10 persons, + 1p, 20 persons, + 1p, 10 persons = 42

31 p: 42 life

Next, we form the armhole. Knit each part separately.

Right shelf:

1 p: ​​12 persons, İNC = 12

2 p: (and all even rows are purl loops) 12 purl

3 p: 10 persons, 2 VM = 11

5 p: 9 persons, 2 vm = 10

7 p: 8 persons, 2 vm = 9

9 p: 6 faces, 3 vm = 7

11 p: 5 persons, 2 vm = 6

13 p: 4 persons, 2 vm = 5

14 p: close all the loops.

Back:

1 p: ​​18 persons = 18

3 p: 2vm *, 14 persons, 2 vm = 16

5 p: 2vm *, 12 persons, 2 vm = 14

7 p: 2vm *, 10 persons, 2 vm = 12

9 p: 2vm *, 8 persons, 2 vm = 10

11 p: 2vm *, 6 persons, 2 vm = 8

13 p: knit this row, closing the loop

Left shelf:

1 p: ​​12persons = 12

3 p: 2 vm *, 10 persons = 11

5 p: 2 vm *, 9 persons = 10

7 p: 2 vm *, 8 persons = 9

9 p: 3 vm *, 6 persons = 7

11 p: 2 vm *, 5 persons = 6

13 p: 2 vm *, 4 persons = 5

14 p: close all loops

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Collar

Turn the jacket back to you and dial 22 loops on the closed loops of the neck,

picking up the front wall of the loop (the one closest to you):

6 loops on the left shelf, 10 loops on the back, 6 loops on the right shelf.

It turns out that on the shelves you need to add one additional loop, and on the back add 2

loops.

1 p: ​​22 life = 22

2 p: 22 persons = 22

3 p: 22 life = 22

4 p: knit this row at the same time closing all the loops.

Try not to tighten the edge, knit looser so that the collar edge is not pulled, it should

to lie freely on the shoulders.

Tie the collar with one next to sc turquoise yarn. At the corners to rotate, knit in one loop:

1sc, 1ch, 1sc.

Remove the thread of contrasting color along the bottom of the jacket, put open loops on the knitting needle, and knit one row

closing all loops at the same time. To tie the bottom and armholes of the jacket with one next sc turquoise yarn.

At the corners, also knit in one loop: 1sc, 1ch, 1sc. Fasten and hide all tails on the wrong side

strings.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Put the finished jacket on Mika, sew the shelves with each other. You can make a fastener, then a jacket

will be removable.

On the left shelf, yellow yarn to embroider two

badge stitches.

Tie

Link a chain of 29ch.

Starting from the 2nd loop from the hook: 9sc, 9hdc, 8dc, 1ch, 1hdc; in

last loop of the chain: 2sc, 1ch, 2sc; starting from

the next loop on the back of the chain: 1hdc, 1ch,

8dc, 9hdc, 9sc.

Steam the tie with a stream of steam (without touching the knitted

cloth) and sew under the collar.

On the side of the tie, embroider two stitches with dark gray yarn.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Bend your neck a little back. Measure about 3-4 cm

wire coming out of the neck, cut off the excess. Put on

head to this frame, find the correct head position and

sew it to your neck.

Eye sockets

Between the 23rd and 24th rows, place a marker exactly in the center of the face (exactly above the nose). Now left and

To the right of this central loop, count 2 loops, and retreat another two loops to the temples – this

marks for eye tightening.

Bring down ordinary sewing with a solid thread of flesh

colors in 2 additions. We form each eye separately.

Tie up the tie in the most inconspicuous place –

either at the base of the neck or under the hair (I hid

hair nodules). Never pull hard.

you need a little bit to get tiny

neat pits. If you look in profile, then

The nose should be slightly submerged.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Eyes

This is the most creative moment in creating your baby doll. The perception of the whole image in

whole.

Materials:

• acrylic paints in white, black and blue (green) colors

• tassels No. 0 and No. 0/3 (the thinnest)

• a piece of dense cotton fabric (I took calico)

• glossy acrylic varnish

• toothpicks – they will take a small amount of paint for mixing on the palette and for

applying varnish

For dolls in the style of anime, you do not need to make realistic eyes, they look on such faces a little

unnaturally, more sketchy eyes are needed. It is no coincidence that there is such a thing as anime eyes.

To measure the height of 4 rows of knitting is the size of the eye vertically. I got 9.5-10 mm. Width

eyes are calculated by multiplying the height by 0.8, it turns out 8 mm. Now on a piece of paper you need to note this

distance and draw two ovals. It’s better to take dark paper so that it’s easier to understand how it will look

eyes on the face.

Cut out these ovals with nail scissors, attach to your face and see if the eyes of such

size or not, if you want more or enough.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now you can start drawing on the fabric. We draw in the same way as we painted on paper.

I drew two sizes at once, because I don’t know which ones will look better in the end.

Now we take acrylic paints and color these blanks. First, draw the squirrels with white paint,

then a blue (green) narrow strip of iris.

Now from below on the iris you need to make a lighter blue (green) highlight. For this on plastic

in the palette (or on the lid of mayonnaise) mix a little bit of blue (green) paint and a little white

mix with a toothpick and a thin brush apply glare.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now paint over the pupil and eyelashes. Let it dry.

Under the eyelashes, the anime always has a shadow, this gives the eyes depth and volume, so now you need

apply these shadows. Mix a little white paint with a black droplet on the palette (literally on

the tip of a toothpick) and do exactly the same with blue (green) paint. Very thin brush

gently apply these paints under the eyelashes to the appropriate areas. And again let it dry.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

It remains only to apply glare with white paint.

Allow eyes to dry well.

Now, with sharp nail scissors, cut out the finished eyes and try on the dolls to the face,

move them, see how it will be better, you can even twist your eyes slightly, while

completely different facial expressions.

This is an individual process, see for yourself how it will look better. As soon as you like it

look of your beauty, mark with a thin sewing needle the control point on which you will

to navigate (for example, the inner corner of the eye), only then glue the eyes into place. Need to glue

one by one. When gluing the first eye, the second remains on the face, do not change its position,

control the position of the glued eye on it.

Let the glue dry and apply acrylic glossy varnish on the eyes. I applied it back (flat)

toothpick side. You do not need to take a lot of varnish, gently touch the surface of the varnish with a toothpick and

then apply it to the eyes and distribute it in a circular motion over the entire surface of the eyes.

The mouth can be embroidered with two stitches of light pink yarn, or you can also draw on fabric and glue

in place.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Tail jewelry

Cut two pieces of thin bead wire d = 0.4 mm 24-26 cm. Yarn dark gray knit

a chain of 24ch.

Note: the length of the chain depends on the thickness of the yarn that you took for the hair.

If the yarn is quite voluminous and the ponytails are magnificent, then ch

should be linked more – 28-30.

Take one piece of wire and tie it under 23sc, on one side of this chain.

Then in the last loop knit 1ch, 1sc, 1ch. Bend the wire in half, attach it to the back

side of this chain and tie another 23sc also by tying the wire.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Now with pink yarn, knit 23cc in the center of the finished strip, as if “flashing” it through.

Bend this knitted strip in the form of a square, bend the ends of the wire perpendicular up.

Pass the tails through these adornments, insert the wire ends in the head directly under the tails and

Sew the threads with the left ends.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

Headphones

Take a piece of wire with a cross-section of 2.5 about 16-18 cm long (do not remove insulation) and bend it into

in the form of headphones. Try this blank on Miku’s head, the loops on the ends of the wire should

located just below the ears.

On one loop of this billet, fix the tip of the black yarn with adhesive tape. Wrap this

thread the central part of the headphones tightly to the coil. Fasten the end of the thread to the second loop

headphones with a small piece of adhesive tape.

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

For the ears, take yarn in dark gray.

Inner part (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

Outside (2 children)

1 p: ​​6sc into magic ring

2 p: (inc) × 6 = 12

3 p: (1sc, inc) × 6 = 18

4 p: (2sc, inc) × 6 = 24

5 p: (behind the back wall of the loop) 24sc = 24

Fold the outer and inner parts in pairs and knit 18 cc, fastening both of these parts together

(row is not completed). Insert the wire loops of the headphones into these “pockets”, add a little bit (!)

filler and tie the connecting row to the end. No need to fill up much; headphones should be

pretty flat and not look like balls. Cut and fasten the thread, hide the tail on the inside.

Embroider pink yarn on the outside of the headphone “light bulb” and yellow to execute small dots.

You can slightly toned the area around the eyes. Just do not overdo it with a shade, the color of the tint

should be slightly darker than the main tone of the face. And you can leave it as it is.

Gently comb the ponytails of the comb with very rare cloves, align the strings and cut

the ends of the ponytail corners.

Miku is ready!

Author’s toy of Olga Goncharova

I express my heartfelt thanks to Elena (Elena_rak), Eugenia (nipl) and Nelly

(Nelly) for helping me test Miku. Thanks for the beautiful images created.

you!

This MK is an authoring and is intended for personal use only.

use. Copying, publishing on their pages on social networks and blogs,

as well as the sale of this master class is prohibited.

You can sell toys related to this MK subject to instructions

the author of the description.

Thank you for understanding!

The post Hatsune Miku Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.

MATERİALS: 

Yarns: Nako pırlanta (skin color:3148) 

Alize Diva (For dress, Pink (561) and light Pink (185)) 

Hook: 2,10 mm and 1,50 mm 

2.5 mm electrical wire 

Fiberfill 

Fine black yarn for face contouring 

Yarn for the hair 

ABBREVİATİONS: 

st: stitch 

ch: chain 

mr: magic ring 

sc: single crochet 

inc: increase (2 sc in the next st) 

dec: decrease (sc next 2 sts together ) 

( )*6 :  Repeat whatever is between the brackets the number of times stated 

PATTERN

HEAD: 

Start with skin color 

1) 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

2) 6 inc (12) 

3) (sc, inc)*6 (18) 

4) (2 sc, inc)*6 (24) 

5) sc, inc, (3 sc, inc)*5, 2 sc (30) 

6) (4 sc, inc)*6 (36) 

7) 2 sc, inc, (5 sc, inc)*5, 3 sc (42) 

8) (6 sc, inc)*6 (48) 

9) 3 sc, inc, (7 sc, inc)*5, 4 sc (54) 

10-21) sc in each st around (54) (12 rnds) 

22) 18 sc, 6 inc, 6 sc, 6 inc, 18 sc (66) 

23-27) sc in each st around (66) (5 rnds) 

28) (9 sc, dec)*6 (60) 

29) (8 sc, dec)*6 (54) 

30) (7 sc, dec)*6 (48) 

31) (6 sc, dec)*6 (42) 

32) (5 sc, dec)*6 (36) 

Place eyes between round 20th and 21th leaving 7 sts between them. 

33) (4 sc, dec)*6 (30) 

34) (3 sc, dec)*6 (24) 

35) (2 sc, dec)*6 (18) 

36) (7 sc, dec)*2 (16) 

Fasten off 

Process eyelashes and eyebrows then fill the head with fiberfill. 

ARMS: (2 pcs) 

Start with skin color 

1) 6 sc in magic ring (6) 

2) (inc, 2 sc)*2 (8) 

3) sc, inc, 3 sc, inc, 2 sc (10) 

4) 2 sc, inc, 4 sc, inc, 2 sc (12) 

5) 2 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc (14) 

6-7) sc in each st around (14) (2 rnds) 

8) 2 sc, 2 dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc (10) 

9) 8 sc, inc, 2 sc (11) 

10-30) sc in each st around (11) (21 rnds) 

FOOT: (2 pcs) 

Start with white color 

1) 9 ch, starting from the 2nd ch st crochet around the chain like: 7 sc, 3 sc in next stitch, 6 sc, inc (18) 

2) inc, 6 sc, 3 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc (24) 

3) sc, inc, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*3, 6 sc, (sc, inc)*2 (30) 

4) 9 sc, (2 sc, inc)*3, 12 sc (33) 

5-7) sc in each st around (33) (3 rnds) 

8) 8 sc, (sc, dec)*6, 7 sc (27) 

9) dec, 7 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 6 sc (22) 

10) 8 sc, (sc, dec)*2, 8 sc (20) 

11) 8 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc (18) 

12-17) sc in each st around (18) (6 rnds) 

Take the yarn to the front. 

18) From FLO: (x, 2 ch)*18 

Fasten off. Cut the yarn. 

LEGS: (2 pcs) 

Continue with skin color from BLO on the 17th row. 

18) sc in each st around (18) 

19-27) sc in each st around (18) (9 rnds) 

28) 12 sc, 4 inc, 2 sc (22) 

29) 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, sc (20) 

30) sc in each st around (20) 

31) 5 sc, inc, 7 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc (19) 

32) sc in each st around (19) 

33) 6 sc, inc, 12 sc (20) 

34) sc in each st around (20) 

35) 7 sc, inc, 12 sc (21) 

36) sc in each st around (21) 

37) 8 sc, inc, 12 sc (22) 

38-41) sc in each st around (22) 

42) 9 sc, place marker here and change the yarn with white color. 

43-46) sc in each st around (22) (4 rnds) 

Cut the yarn after the first leg is finised, do not cut the yarn after the second leg is finished 

BODY: 

Combine the legs. 

1) 7 sc from first leg, 2 ch, 22 sc from second leg, 2 sc on the ch, 15 sc from first leg (48) 

2) 8 sc, 2 sc on the ch, 40 sc (48) 

3) 2 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 12 sc, inc, 10 sc, inc, 10 sc (52) 

4-9) sc in each st around (52) (6 rnds) 

10) 3 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 10 sc, dec, 12 sc, dec, 7 sc (48) 

11) sc in each st around (48) 

12) 4 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 9 sc, dec, 7 sc (44) 

Continue with skin color. 

13) (20 sc, dec)*2 (42) 

14) 2 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 4 sc (38) 

15) 18 sc, dec, 16 sc, dec (36) 

16-17) sc in each st around (36) 

18) 18 sc, inc, 16 sc, inc (38) 

Combine the arms. 

12 sc, place marker here. 

19) 8 sc, 3 sc with arm,  16 sc, 3 sc with order arm,  8 sc (38) 

20) 8 sc, 9 sc on the arm,  16 sc, 9 sc on the order arm,  8 sc (50) 

21) (7 sc, dec)*2, 14 sc, (7 sc, dec)*2 (46) 

22) 3 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 13 sc, dec, 3 sc (42) 

23) 3 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 6 sc, dec, 11 sc, dec, 3 sc (38) 

24) 8 sc, 3 dec, 12 sc, 3 dec, 6 sc (32) 

25) 3 sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, dec, sc (24) 

26) (2x, dec)*6 (18) 

27) 6 sc, dec, 5 sc, dec, 3 sc (16) 

28-31) sc in each st around (16) (4 rnds) 

DRESS: 

Start with dark pink color. 

Return at the end of the rows. 

1) 45 ch, starting from the 2nd ch st crochet around the chain like:  inc, (6 dc, 2 dc in to next st)*6 (50) 

2-3) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*24 

4) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (4 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*24 

5) 3 ch, (3 dc in each space)*25 (75) 

6) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*37 

6) 5 ch, skip 1 st, sc, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*37 

7) 5 ch, sc, (3 ch, sc)*4, 7 ch, skip 8 space, sc, (3 ch, sc)*5 

8) 5 ch, sc, (3 ch, sc)*4, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*3, (3 ch, sc)*10, (3 ch, skip 1 st, sc)*3, (3 ch, sc)*5 

9) 2 ch, (3 dc in each space)*repeat until the end of the sequence 

10-12) 2 ch, 51 dc 

13) 4 ch, (skip 2 st, dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space)*17, ss 

14) 2 ch, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc to the next space)*17 

15) 2 ch, dc into 2nd st, (2 dc, 2ch, 2dc to the next space, dc in the next st), (skip 2 st, dc into 2nd st, (2 dc, 2ch, 2 dc to the next space, dc in the next st))*16 

16) 2 ch, from the second st: 2 dc, (2 dc, 2 ch, 2 dc to the next space, 2 dc, (skip 2 st, 2 dc, (2 dc, 2ch, 2 dc in each space, 2 dc))*16 

17) 2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

18) Start with light pink. 

2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

19) Start with dark pink. 

2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

20) Start with light pink. 

2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

21) Start with dark pink. 

2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 2 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

22) Start with light pink. 

2 ch, from the second st: 3 dc, (dc, 3 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc), (skip 2 st, 3 dc, (dc, 3 ch, dc to the next space, 3 dc))*16 

23) Start with dark pink. 

2 ch, from the third st: 2 dc, (3 dc, 3 ch, sc into first ch, 2 dc to the next space, 3 dc in the next st, skip 2 st)*16 

FLOWER: 

1) 6 ch, ss into first ch and ring creation. 

2) 1 ch, 12 sc, ss 

3) (3 ch, bubble in the next st, 3 ch, sc in the next st)*6 

TAIL OF FLOWER: 

60 ch, from the second st: 50 ss from the FLO (2 pieces) 

SHOES: (2 pcs) 

Start with black color 

1) 9 ch, from the second st: 7 sc, 4 sc into same ch, 6 sc, inc, ss (19) 

2) 1 ch, inc, 3 sc, 3 hdc, (2 hdc in the next st)*3, 3 hdc, 3 sc, 2 inc, ss (24) 

3) sc, inc, 3 sc, 3 hdc, (hdc, 2 hdc in the next st)*4, 3 hdc, 3 sc, (inc sc)*2 (33) 

Continue with dark pink color. 

4) 1 ch, 33 sc from BLO, ss (33) 

5-7) sc in each st around (33) (3 rnds) 

8) 1 ch, 10 sc, (sc, dec)*4, 11 sc, ss (29) 

9) 1 ch, 8 sc, dec, sc, dec, 4 sc, dec, sc, dec, 7 sc, ss (25) 

RIBBON: 

Start with light pink. 

sc, 4 ch, 3 trc, 4 ch, 2 sc, 4 ch, 3 trc, 4 ch, sc in magic ring 

HAIRGRIP: 

Foliage: 

Start with green color. 

(10 ch, from the second st: sc, hdc, 7 dc)*3 

Flower: 

1) 35 ch, (dc, 3 ch, dc in the fifth ch), [(1 ch, skip 2 ch, (dc, 3 ch, dc in the next ch)]*10 

2) turn, 2 ch, (7 dc to the next space, sc to the next space)*10 

The post Duru Doll Amigurumi Free Pattern appeared first on En.amigurumitariflerim.com.